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Old 10-15-2016, 08:28 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by dougk53 View Post
If you have decided on how you want your truck configured best thing you can do is go to a large volume dealer and look at used trucks and get an idea of price then look at new 16 leftovers and hammer them in negotiation. When I bought mine as a leftover between incentives and negotiating I purchased a truck with a 50K sticker for 37K and got a spray in bedliner along with 36 month maintenance because I started to walk out and the sales manager was walking by and got involved. You never know unless you try. For some reason used trucks are commanding silly prices.

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I agree,
I traded my 2013 King Ranch F 150 for a F250 in May 2015. They gave me 5 k less than what I paid 2 years earlier. It was shipped to the USA from Canada being used import duties where low. Lots of trucks go south. Some guy in Alabama bought my truck, i did get a email about customer satisfaction survey after it was serviced.
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Old 10-15-2016, 09:34 AM   #82
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I agree,
I traded my 2013 King Ranch F 150 for a F250 in May 2015. They gave me 5 k less than what I paid 2 years earlier. It was shipped to the USA from Canada being used import duties where low. Lots of trucks go south. Some guy in Alabama bought my truck, i did get a email about customer satisfaction survey after it was serviced.
Good for you but a lot of us have the new F-150 with the higher payloads that suit us just fine. We all know or should know the 3/4 ton is more capable for towing but not for everyday driving.
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Old 10-15-2016, 01:26 PM   #83
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Being 7' wide may make that difference.
I think they would still work for me if the trailer was another 6"-12" wider. As part of a test drive you could see about backing up to a trailer similar to yours and see what you think of the visibility. Or take your trailer to the dealer.

One item I think important is to get the 36 gal tank. Our previous TV had a 20 gallon tank and it was not much fun having to fill up every 120-150 miles. Worse was some of the state campgrounds we go to don't have gas nearby so we spent part of our weekend driving to the nearest gas station so we would have return gas on Sunday. With the 36 gallon tank we can usually round trip on a single tank with gas to spare. If not there is plenty to get us to the main highways where gas stations are common.
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Old 10-23-2016, 12:38 PM   #84
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This 2013 truck looks attractive except for the apparent lack of trailer mirrors. It has a 36 gallon tank and 7650# GVWR package but I don't know the payload rating. Requested info from dealer. It does have skid plates which are added weight but not much else in terms of extraneous equipment. (Running boards of some kind are desirable.)

Other than the weight reduction from aluminum in late model F150s, what other significant changes are in newer models? Did the Ecoboost performance change?
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Old 10-23-2016, 10:47 PM   #85
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Other than the weight reduction from aluminum in late model F150s, what other significant changes are in newer models? Did the Ecoboost performance change?
I may be wrong on this, but...

The Eco-Boost is a direct injection engine, that is, the injector pushes fuel directly into the cylinder not into the intake manifold. Also, from what I have read, DI engines open the intake manifold BEFORE all exhaust gasses have exited thru the exhaust valve. A problem that has been experienced by most if not all DI engine manufactures - read BMW, Mercedes Benz, etc. is that, over time, these burnt fuel gasses result in a carbon buildup on the back side of the intake valve. This can lead to pre-ignition or knocking. When the fuel is injected into the intake manifold or (really old school) thru a carburetor, the incoming clean fuel effectively washes that back side of the intake valve, removing the carbon. That is what many of the higher end gas supplier additives is intended to do. What I have heard is that in DI engines it takes something over 100K miles to begin to be noticeable. There are some cleaning methods but last I heard, Ford had not approved any for the Eco-Boost, probably because the cleaner can damage the turbos.
The 2017 Eco-Boost incorporates a change that Ford thinks will take care of this issue, it is a dual direct and port injection system. So like older designs, some of the fuel is available to clean the back of the intake valve.

Also, the 2017 has a 10 speed transmission. Should improve mileage in all uses. Now if you can get the version of the engine that is going in the Raptor... That has a LOT more horsepower. I believe all of the 3.5 EBs have start/stop technology - engine turns off if you idle for more than a few seconds.
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Old 10-24-2016, 10:26 AM   #86
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Originally Posted by chriscowles View Post
This 2013 truck looks attractive except for the apparent lack of trailer mirrors. It has a 36 gallon tank and 7650# GVWR package but I don't know the payload rating. Requested info from dealer. It does have skid plates which are added weight but not much else in terms of extraneous equipment. (Running boards of some kind are desirable.)

Other than the weight reduction from aluminum in late model F150s, what other significant changes are in newer models? Did the Ecoboost performance change?

Incentives right now are really good on new 2016's. The 2017 gets the 10 speed and a tweak of the ecoboost, but after some searching, I was able to find several 2016 XLT 4x4 CC, 6.5 bed, 36 gallon tank vehicles for about 40K and they brought back 0% for 60 months. I found 25 or 30 6.5 beds using the search on ford.com, and only 1 had tow mirrors but I guess that's a mixed bag. The wider mirrors can be a PIA as a daily driver, and on the f-150 they don't offer power folding tow mirrors... 2016's also have SYNC 3, which is big improvement over the old sync.

If nothing else, you can use the big incentives on the new ones as leverage for a better deal on the used one.
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Old 10-24-2016, 11:15 AM   #87
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Chris,
I just took a roo 21ss out for the first weekend. Had to upgrade TV so went with F150 XLT 4X4 SC 5.5 bed 1800-ish payload. No tow mirrors available, nowhere. Bought the wrong year slip ons from Amazon so returned them and went without. Roo is 96" wide.
Stock mirrors are ADEQUATE, but that depends somewhat upon your definition. I will be getting the right year slip on mirrors because I like the 'extra little bit' of view they provide. About $45 on Amazon.

.. and it barely fits in the garage, both width and length.
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Old 10-24-2016, 07:39 PM   #88
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Chris,
I just took a roo 21ss out for the first weekend. Had to upgrade TV so went with F150 XLT 4X4 SC 5.5 bed 1800-ish payload. No tow mirrors available, nowhere. Bought the wrong year slip ons from Amazon so returned them and went without. Roo is 96" wide.
Stock mirrors are ADEQUATE, but that depends somewhat upon your definition. I will be getting the right year slip on mirrors because I like the 'extra little bit' of view they provide. About $45 on Amazon.

.. and it barely fits in the garage, both width and length.
Thanks for those details. Taken in combination with comments from KMP44, above, and others, suggests I may be satisfied with power folding standard mirrors, and slip-on tow mirrors. I, too, appreciate the additional view provided by the convex mirrors, but will use them rarely. Model-specific slip-ons may fit better on the F150 than the generic strap-ons do on my Durango.
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Old 10-24-2016, 09:45 PM   #89
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Originally Posted by chriscowles View Post
This 2013 truck looks attractive except for the apparent lack of trailer mirrors. It has a 36 gallon tank and 7650# GVWR package but I don't know the payload rating. Requested info from dealer. It does have skid plates which are added weight but not much else in terms of extraneous equipment. (Running boards of some kind are desirable.)

Other than the weight reduction from aluminum in late model F150s, what other significant changes are in newer models? Did the Ecoboost performance change?
Call and ask about payload.

No power changes until 2017.
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Old 10-24-2016, 10:32 PM   #90
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YOu'll need to verify that load capacity - maybe the alum 150's are that high, but I doubt it.

It's a 1/2 ton truck - so a couple of people and 1/2 ton of cargo...1400lbs give or take some.

GO TO A SCALE!

Our silverado ON THE SCALE weights 5740 lbs with nobody on board - hitch, tonneou cover, running boards...jumper cables, etc that we always carry.
GVWR is 7000 lbs.

that's 1260 REAL WORLD pounds it can carry. With 600-700 lbs of people/dog/bike/firewood you're not left with much for the toungue weight.

Now GCWR is 14,400...our TT is 6200ish loaded to go..truck 5700..peeps n pets 700 say, so 12,700 - 1700 lbs left to play with.

Recently started driving a school bus - my next TV is likely to be an old school bus, shortened with a really big hacksaw or maybe I'll just flat bet it and put the TT on board.

GVWR is 29,800...seats 66 kids..so, what 12k ish load there? Maybe more?

Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscowles View Post
Advice? I'm in the market for a new (or new to me) tow vehicle and probably will buy a Ford F150 SuperCrew 3.5L Ecoboost 4x4. I'm getting the 4 door to carry passengers. To park it in my garage I have to stick with the 5.5' box. That limits the payload capacity to 2060#.

Our current trailer (21DK, below) has a GVWR around 5000#. We plan to upgrade but not to more than around 23' and 7000# (e.g., Rockwood 2304DS). We just don't want anything bigger.

We'll take that on trips including western mountains. I doesn't bother me if the gas engine revs up climbing high passes as long as it doesn't overheat and is operating within design specs.

With that in mind, am I correct in thinking the 2000# payload should be enough for a 750# tongue? Getting a 6.5' bed gets me another 800# but that's a lot of truck for what will be my daily driver in the city most of the time, and I can't park it in the garage.

As far as my payload is concerned it would be, at most, 700# in passengers, a 60# dog and couple hundred pounds in the bed. (Honda 2000 generator, gas can, and some personal gear.) More likely the passengers load will be half that.

Thanks
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