Ford SD Aluminum Body to Steel Mounting

[ADVtraveller]

I have built a bracket to mount a Viair constant air system under my 2017 F250. The bracket is steel, and it is mounting to aluminum supports under the bed of the truck. I plan to use thin Kydex between the mounting locations to prevent corrosion. I may coat the plastic (Kydex) with dielectric grease to help as well.

Any thoughts about this from those of you with more knowledge about metallurgy and what I need to watch for or do to prevent corrosion?

Thanks

[davel1971]

Kydex is hard. The grease won't be there forever. I would think the vibrations of the compressor would eventually wear the paint away, then you have no corrosion protection at all. I would use rubber mounts.

[SilhouettePenny]

I think Ford powder coats their frames, I could be wrong, and if so I don't see a problem mounting the bracket with dielectric grease then maybe sealing that with silicone caulk. Of course a thin sheet of rubber would be a good idea also.

[Stank Bait]

Maybe mount the compressor to a Delrin block and then the block to the Aluminum. That would isolate it. Stainless fastener to Aluminum unless you can find Aluminum bolts and nuts.

[18CrewDually]

It was easiest for me to build the mount out of 3/16th flat aluminium plate primed and painted. It's bolted to the bed's crossmembers in front of the passenger side wheel well. About 2 years no issues.

[ADVtraveller]

Nice! That's exactly where I'm putting mine. Fabbed up something similar with scrap sheet steel I had in the shop already. Difference is I'm going to only mount the 2.5 gal tank there. The compressor is mounting to frame just below it. With kydex walls to keep it from splash.

[Rich5117]

Ford has an SVE Q-222 covering this issue and what they recommend to prevent Galvanic Corrosion

[mule]

Originally Posted by 05CrewDually

It was easiest for me to build the mount out of 3/16th flat aluminium plate primed and painted. It's bolted to the bed's crossmembers in front of the passenger side wheel well. About 2 years no issues.
Attachment 160021

I’ve been reading this thread and your mounting idea and fabrication looks great! This will help me stop carrying a pancake compressor with me.
Great job!!!

[18CrewDually]

Originally Posted by mule

I’ve been reading this thread and your mounting idea and fabrication looks great! This will help me stop carrying a pancake compressor with me.
Great job!!!

Thank you. If you notice, I constructed a manifold that includes 12v solenoid valves. 2 of them are for the UP & 1 is for the Down (air dump) for the rear Airlift bag system. This is operated from the in dash momentary double pole double throw rocker switch.
1 air line is for the triple air horns mounted in the bumper. I also ran an air line up into the stake pocket of the bed with a quickconnect to allow me to hook up the 25' airhose I carry for tires and what not.
I got practically everything through Amazon except the pipe fittings which I got locally.

Originally Posted by ADVtraveller

Nice! That's exactly where I'm putting mine. Fabbed up something similar with scrap sheet steel I had in the shop already. Difference is I'm going to only mount the 2.5 gal tank there. The compressor is mounting to frame just below it. With kydex walls to keep it from splash.

I had planned on closing in the sides with canvas & snaps for the winters but I just have been spraying it with heavy duty silicone spray when I service the truck. Still might though some day.
Sorry for the fuzzy pic but that's all I got for now. If you need links or questions just ask. I'm really pleased with the system.

[mule]

Originally Posted by 05CrewDually

Thank you. If you notice, I constructed a manifold that includes 12v solenoid valves. 2 of them are for the UP & 1 is for the Down (air dump) for the rear Airlift bag system. This is operated from the in dash momentary double pole double throw rocker switch.
1 air line is for the triple air horns mounted in the bumper. I also ran an air line up into the stake pocket of the bed with a quickconnect to allow me to hook up the 25' airhose I carry for tires and what not.
I got practically everything through Amazon except the pipe fittings which I got locally.
Attachment 160030
Attachment 160031


I had planned on closing in the sides with canvas & snaps for the winters but I just have been spraying it with heavy duty silicone spray when I service the truck. Still might though some day.
Sorry for the fuzzy pic but that's all I got for now. If you need links or questions just ask. I'm really pleased with the system.
Attachment 160032

That’s great, I really appreciate the extra effort you took for posting your work and sharing your setup!

[ard58]

I use strips of rubber on things such as this. You could get an old mudflap, or possibly new one at local parts store.

[ADVtraveller]

Good idea! But I had a light go off in my head and 20 MIL Orbit PVC pipe wrap tape will work perfectly.

[ADVtraveller]

05CrewDually, I really appreciate the pics and info! To see that you built a manifold with gas line is brilliant. A lot cheaper than buying a machined manifold!
You're set up is far more involved than mine. I'm simply putting in the constant air for filling tires in the driveway and on the trail at camp. Aside form building brackets for a factory like install, and adding 2 more air chuck hookup locations on the truck, I'm installing this unit out of the box.
My truck is the longbed with the extended cab, and that location provides lots of room for what you've done, and I'm doing.
Now for the gauge location... I don't want it in the cab. Don't need it there. As I have a seperate compressor and air system for my airbags. And seriously, with the high pressure auto shutoff feature, do I really even need the gauge? So I was thinking of running the system's power straight to an upfitter switch, and not using the gauge and switch that comes with the kit. Then installing a schrader valve to the system by the license plate just to monitor the output if needed.
Any thoughts on that kids?

[ADVtraveller]

Originally Posted by Rich5117

Ford has an SVE Q-222 covering this issue and what they recommend to prevent Galvanic Corrosion

Awesome, great info, Thank you. I google searched it and downloaded it in Adobe.

[18CrewDually]

ADVtraveller,

I don't monitor a gauge at all. I Tee'd off of the airbag supply line and mounted a valve stem in the rear bumper so I can manually fill and check the pressure in the bags.
As far as using the Upfitter switch, just make sure you use the highest amp rated switch (30amp) and it is rated high enough for the amperage draw of the compressor. You may even want to consider using a constant duty cycle solenoid to turn power on/off to the compressor since they can draw some amps especially with the 10 foot run on wire to power it.

[ADVtraveller]

Originally Posted by 05CrewDually

ADVtraveller,

I don't monitor a gauge at all. I Tee'd off of the airbag supply line and mounted a valve stem in the rear bumper so I can manually fill and check the pressure in the bags.
As far as using the Upfitter switch, just make sure you use the highest amp rated switch (30amp) and it is rated high enough for the amperage draw of the compressor. You may even want to consider using a constant duty cycle solenoid to turn power on/off to the compressor since they can draw some amps especially with the 10 foot run on wire to power it.

Copy that. There are two 30 AMP upfitters in my truck. One goes to the dedicated airfbag compressor already. This constant air system will take the other one. I plan to splice the air system switch into the 10 gauge power line to the comporessor. Then 10 gauge straight to the upfitter. Flip it on, air up, flip it off. To what advantage would be the constant duty solenoid?
If I accidently leave it on? Enlighten me.

[Beauty and Beast]

I think I would look and see what other steel things Ford has mounted to their frame and just follow their example.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by ADVtraveller

05CrewDually, I really appreciate the pics and info! To see that you built a manifold with gas line is brilliant. A lot cheaper than buying a machined manifold!
You're set up is far more involved than mine. I'm simply putting in the constant air for filling tires in the driveway and on the trail at camp. Aside form building brackets for a factory like install, and adding 2 more air chuck hookup locations on the truck, I'm installing this unit out of the box.
My truck is the longbed with the extended cab, and that location provides lots of room for what you've done, and I'm doing.
Now for the gauge location... I don't want it in the cab. Don't need it there. As I have a seperate compressor and air system for my airbags. And seriously, with the high pressure auto shutoff feature, do I really even need the gauge? So I was thinking of running the system's power straight to an upfitter switch, and not using the gauge and switch that comes with the kit. Then installing a schrader valve to the system by the license plate just to monitor the output if needed.
Any thoughts on that kids?

A gauge is added security...my kid had a similar setup on his jeep years ago. The pressure transducer switch failed and he caught it by noticing the gauge and was dangerously over pressure in the tank. The popoff valve was stuck from road grime and didn't open when pressure reached it's maximum. (sounds like you have that covered though.
Just my thought.
Otherwise, that a nice setup you built. Hats off !!

[Hersbird]

From what I understand about galvanic corrosion the steel will actually corrode slower when in contact with aluminum then it will in contact with other steel. Basically the corrosion of the aluminum is accelerated at the expense of the steel corrosion being slowed. The good news there is the aluminum hardly corrodes at all in the first place so accelerated corrosion should mean nothing noticible or structural. I would use steel not aluminum fasteners but otherwise you might be over thinking it.

[kcdelan]

Originally Posted by ADVtraveller

I have built a bracket to mount a Viair constant air system under my 2017 F250. The bracket is steel, and it is mounting to aluminum supports under the bed of the truck. I plan to use thin Kydex between the mounting locations to prevent corrosion. I may coat the plastic (Kydex) with dielectric grease to help as well.

Any thoughts about this from those of you with more knowledge about metallurgy and what I need to watch for or do to prevent corrosion?

Thanks

Let me first admit that I know nothing about the Ford Aluminum Bed Trucks. However, having spent most of my former working life in the Marine Industry (salt water environment) I would always put the most indestructible, insulate material I could between and noble metal (steel) and less noble (aluminum). I would also like to point out that I would also use top quality stainless fasteners. Yes, you can get away with Galvanized Steel but if just one small part of of the galvanizing breaks down and comes into contact with the Aluminum, corrosion/erosion will occur. Be very cautious about the quality of stainless steel fasteners, especially those manufactured in Asian countries. Best to look for certified 316 Stainless Steel Fasteners.
Note: A quick way to check the quality of stainless steel is to use a permanent magnet. If the Stainless Steel is strongly magnetic it is junk! Top Quality will be completely non-magnetic. Hope this is of some help.