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Old 03-17-2016, 01:37 PM   #31
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I "would think" that good enough. In my case, a 2008 Montana 2955, I measured the actual beam that broke, did the calculations and it was barely adequate for the "factory empty" pin load, let alone any additional - and in fact broke under weights within the GVWR of the unit. I would add that I've designed many modular industrial facilities for "over the road" transit and the design deficiency was obvious. Spent a week in Whitehorse, Yukon having it cut out and replaced - and we did ADD reinforcement. Would also add that exchanged several e-mails with Keystone that were fruitless!
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:47 PM   #32
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2300 pound pin?

I would seriously check that figure. My 40 foot fiver weighs in at 14400 ready to travel but the pin weight at this point is 3600, certified on CAT scales. If yours is 14000 dry then I believe your pin weight will greatly exceed 2300.
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Old 03-17-2016, 03:09 PM   #33
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I would seriously check that figure. My 40 foot fiver weighs in at 14400 ready to travel but the pin weight at this point is 3600, certified on CAT scales. If yours is 14000 dry then I believe your pin weight will greatly exceed 2300.
True. My unit is 12K loaded and my pin is ~2400.
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Old 03-17-2016, 03:14 PM   #34
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I would seriously check that figure. My 40 foot fiver weighs in at 14400 ready to travel but the pin weight at this point is 3600, certified on CAT scales. If yours is 14000 dry then I believe your pin weight will greatly exceed 2300.

2,300 lbs may not be wildly low. You're at 25% pin weight, I am only at 17-18%.

My scaled 16,800 lbs. fifth wheel has 3,000 lbs. of pin weight. Back when it weighed 14,800, my pin weight was 2,540 lbs. (again, scaled) Dry weight for me was 12,400 and 1,840 lbs.
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Old 03-17-2016, 04:51 PM   #35
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I just bought another 5'ver, 38QB Sanibel. I was talking to an installer and he recommended a gooseneck as opposed to a 5th wheel hitch. I have towed 5th wheels before. I have a new F350, no hitch.
Looking for some insight about the towing difference, pros and cons. The goose neck comes with an air ride. The trailer weights about 14,000 and the pin is around 2,300.
Big difference in the weight of the hitches and I want an under body set up, leaves the bed open. My old Ford Had rails, didn't like it, plus the weight of the hitch to take in and out.
Thanks Bob
Bob the mfg. said the frame work on 5th wheels isn't made for goose necks to much side twisting and won't be warrantied
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Old 03-17-2016, 06:43 PM   #36
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These little gizmos from Harbor Freight really work and help with aligning up on a blind ball. I first used them on my bumper hitch for my boat and now on my 5'ver. And they're only 10 bucks. With strong magnets on the bottom and telescope like the old radio antennas you can adjust the height out to 43".

Magnetic Trailer Alignment Kit
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Old 03-17-2016, 07:24 PM   #37
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Google "Reese Goosebox" and also search this forum. You will find a ton of information, and several posts by me on the advantages of the Goosebox. Nothing to put in the truck bed or remove. No maintenance except to keep 35-50 psi of air in the Goosebox. I really like mine, and will never use anything else. The only downside is that it's a little more trouble to hook up because you cannot see the hitch ball, so there is a little trial and error to hooking up, unless you have a single cab truck. Two people make it easy. Install a B&W turnover ball in the truck, and you will always have a clean bed...no rails that keep snagging on everything you want to haul. Good luck
^ I couldnt have said it better myself^

Edit) my pin wieght varies a LOT, depending on what kink of wieght I have in the garage.With the trailer totally empty its 2300.It pulls ok with that,but its better with 100 gal of water in front of the axels giveing it 2600. With the golf cart and water(which is how we tow 90% of the time,pin is 2500.The goose box doesnt seem to be very fussy about wieght.
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Old 03-17-2016, 07:35 PM   #38
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(I don't ask this with any attitude or aggression- truly curious.)

Being over 40 with a bad back, isn't it a PITA to have to climb into the bed to connect the safety chains?

I'd either have to lay/wiggle into the bed from the tailgate or climb painfully over the dually hips to hook them up.
The goose box has a cable that will reach back to the tailgate to lock/unlock it.
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Old 03-18-2016, 06:41 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by CraigBean7672 View Post
These little gizmos from Harbor Freight really work and help with aligning up on a blind ball. I first used them on my bumper hitch for my boat and now on my 5'ver. And they're only 10 bucks. With strong magnets on the bottom and telescope like the old radio antennas you can adjust the height out to 43".

Magnetic Trailer Alignment Kit
I use something just like them and they work great,along with my convert-a-ball cushioned goose neck adapter.
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Old 03-18-2016, 10:10 AM   #40
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The goose box has a cable that will reach back to the tailgate to lock/unlock it.
Exactly right, and I have no trouble with the "lock/unlock" cable, especially if I remember to set it up "before" I back up to the trailer.
The electrical connection is at the rear drivers side of the truck, so that's no problem either.
The reason I have to crawl into the truck bed is to connect the safety chains. They are something of a pita. I saw a post from someone that used a short piece of emt conduit, and I plan on exploring that method. The issue will be to lift the spring loaded u bolts that the chain hooks to. The answer may be as simple as grinding a notch into a short wooden dowel, then insert that under the u bolt so I can "hook" up using the emt. That way, if I need the smooth bed, I can just remove the dowel rod.
I may play with that idea a little today.
I don't recall who made the original post about the emt, but "thank you"
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