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Old 03-21-2018, 07:27 AM   #41
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Old 03-22-2018, 06:04 PM   #42
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Closing the loop

OP here. Just to complete this thread, I went with the B&W; mostly an old school mindset to go with the traditional 5th wheel hitch setup.
Thanks everyone for your input.
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Old 03-22-2018, 06:57 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by GilnJo View Post
OP here. Just to complete this thread, I went with the B&W; mostly an old school mindset to go with the traditional 5th wheel hitch setup.
Thanks everyone for your input.
Good move.
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Old 03-25-2018, 09:21 PM   #44
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Good move.
X2
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Old 03-26-2018, 11:25 AM   #45
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buying the camper then the truck is the smart way to go. Most people go the other way and then are limited by the tow vehicle. You don't really have to worry about clearance issues with a long bed, but I love my Anderson ultimate hitch. Easy hook up and 4 pins I have the bed of my truck back when needed. And its light weight.


How light is light? Just curious.
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Old 03-26-2018, 11:27 AM   #46
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We join in on the Anderson Ultimate. They have chain bolts you can get with it as well. Easy and lightweight. My wife can install it by herself.


Does it work with the factory installed F250 puck system prep package?
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Old 03-26-2018, 11:28 AM   #47
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How light is light? Just curious.
Mine doesn't use rails but attaches to a ball. Mine weighs roughly 35 pounds. A short bed truck is not ideal but mine is worse because of the nose of the camper.

My video
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Old 03-26-2018, 12:35 PM   #48
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Mine doesn't use rails but attaches to a ball. Mine weighs roughly 35 pounds. A short bed truck is not ideal but mine is worse because of the nose of the camper.

My video
Dang that's close. Can you flip the king pin mounted adapter around, or is that not recommended by Andersen? If you could you'd gain about 2 or more inches.
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Old 03-26-2018, 12:42 PM   #49
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Hmm I haven't turned it around again since I made this video. It's worth trying. I cant recall if I have the offset ball in the bed of that truck either. Now I have to go watch it again.
Edit: Yeah I have the offset on. I could try and turn the adapter around and see. I had it the other way but many suggested it turning the way I have it now. Another experiment to see what works.
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Old 03-26-2018, 12:43 PM   #50
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Hmm I haven't turned it around again since I made this video. It's worth trying. I cant recall if I have the offset ball in the bed of that truck either. Now I have to go watch it again.
Whatever combo you try, I'd get the O.K. from Andersen first, maybe in an email.
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Old 03-26-2018, 04:08 PM   #51
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Hmm I haven't turned it around again since I made this video. It's worth trying. I cant recall if I have the offset ball in the bed of that truck either. Now I have to go watch it again.
Edit: Yeah I have the offset on. I could try and turn the adapter around and see. I had it the other way but many suggested it turning the way I have it now. Another experiment to see what works.


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Originally Posted by 05CrewDually View Post
Whatever combo you try, I'd get the O.K. from Andersen first, maybe in an email.


I was reading the instructions the other day. I know, I know, (here) is my man card.

They had a whole set of measurements for which way to install the base and adapter for the king pin.

If I recall correctly, their instructions talked about reversing the adapter in some cases.
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Old 03-26-2018, 04:44 PM   #52
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I was reading the instructions the other day. I know, I know, (here) is my man card.

They had a whole set of measurements for which way to install the base and adapter for the king pin.

If I recall correctly, their instructions talked about reversing the adapter in some cases.
Yes I have had it set up both ways. I sent them my video and asked what they think. I am waiting back on a reply.
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Old 05-16-2018, 05:17 PM   #53
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Pinbox & Frame are fine after 6 years & over 30,000 miles

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This adapter is designed to convert the kingpin on a goose neck trailer to a ball mount. It is not to be used on an RV pinbox because it changes the way forces are being transferred through the pinbox onto the trailer frame.
The setup that I use:
The Pop-Up Hitch-Ball is rated at 30,000 lbs. max, 7500 lbs. tongue weight.
The Gooseneck adaptor is rated at 20,000 lbs. max, 4000 lbs. tongue weight.
My 5er weighs about 12,500 fully loaded with a hitch weight of <2500 lbs.

Take a look at this video:



It's been six years now and I can tell you that I now have over 30,000 miles on this set-up. Several trips to Yellowstone, and throughout the Rocky mountains, Coastal Range mountains and western States. .....some boondocking on some pretty nasty dirt roads, too!

I maintain my 5er myself (my company) and don't believe in taking shortcuts. This system allows me to use my 5er, along with other moderately heavy equipment gooseneck trailers and keeps the bed of my truck free from obstruction when not in use. It takes a little more skill to connect and I do have to get into the truck bed to latch/unlatch and connect/disconnect safety chains, which for me is not a problem and is a good trade off for an open truck bed.

Several inspections have revealed nothing out of the ordinary. I have a small inspection camera (borescope) that I have utilized in tight areas and all is well. After my first trip, I did add two small adjustable braces from the adaptor to the rear of the pinbox to eliminate the minor "forward-backward" natural flex motion.

For those of you who are not familiar, the RV industry is about the only major industry that still utilizes the "5th wheel" set-up. Most moderately heavy equipment and farm applications utilize the "Gooseneck" set-up. Neither one is right or wrong, they are just different and both have proven safety records. There are Pro's and Con's with both.

FYI - Here's a Reese setup that is endorsed by Lippert components, who makes many of the RV pin boxes & frames. Had this been available when I did mine, I definitely would have considered it:

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Old 05-17-2018, 05:37 AM   #54
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To reply to my own post I can't turn it around or I will hit the tailgate and side rails. The woes of a short bed truck.
I like both of the options above and if I had known about those I probably would have gone that route. I have had my Andersen for 2+ years now and still like it though.
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Old 05-17-2018, 07:25 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by FredK View Post
The setup that I use:
The Pop-Up Hitch-Ball is rated at 30,000 lbs. max, 7500 lbs. tongue weight.
The Gooseneck adaptor is rated at 20,000 lbs. max, 4000 lbs. tongue weight.
My 5er weighs about 12,500 fully loaded with a hitch weight of <2500 lbs.

Take a look at this video:



It's been six years now and I can tell you that I now have over 30,000 miles on this set-up. Several trips to Yellowstone, and throughout the Rocky mountains, Coastal Range mountains and western States. .....some boondocking on some pretty nasty dirt roads, too!

I maintain my 5er myself (my company) and don't believe in taking shortcuts. This system allows me to use my 5er, along with other moderately heavy equipment gooseneck trailers and keeps the bed of my truck free from obstruction when not in use. It takes a little more skill to connect and I do have to get into the truck bed to latch/unlatch and connect/disconnect safety chains, which for me is not a problem and is a good trade off for an open truck bed.

Several inspections have revealed nothing out of the ordinary. I have a small inspection camera (borescope) that I have utilized in tight areas and all is well. After my first trip, I did add two small adjustable braces from the adaptor to the rear of the pinbox to eliminate the minor "forward-backward" natural flex motion.

For those of you who are not familiar, the RV industry is about the only major industry that still utilizes the "5th wheel" set-up. Most moderately heavy equipment and farm applications utilize the "Gooseneck" set-up. Neither one is right or wrong, they are just different and both have proven safety records. There are Pro's and Con's with both.

FYI - Here's a Reese setup that is endorsed by Lippert components, who makes many of the RV pin boxes & frames. Had this been available when I did mine, I definitely would have considered it:

I have the reset up with the Blue Ox diamond gooseneck in my truck and absolutely love it
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Old 05-17-2018, 09:03 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by Electra glide View Post
To reply to my own post I can't turn it around or I will hit the tailgate and side rails. The woes of a short bed truck.
I like both of the options above and if I had known about those I probably would have gone that route. I have had my Andersen for 2+ years now and still like it though.
I have had 1 long bed and it is one and done. Went back to a short bed 4 trucks back. The B&W Patriot slider thousands of miles ago. Only used the slider a few times but glad it was there. Heavy, yes but still the best option IMO.
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Old 05-17-2018, 09:07 AM   #57
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I have had 1 long bed and it is one and done. Went back to a short bed 4 trucks back. The B&W Patriot slider thousands of miles ago. Only used the slider a few times but glad it was there. Heavy, yes but still the best option IMO.
With My set up and the notched cap on the silverback I have never been close to making contact with my short bed GMC.
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Old 05-17-2018, 09:10 AM   #58
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With My set up and the notched cap on the silverback I have never been close to making contact with my short bed GMC.
My Vengeance has a "cool" nose cap that sticks out at the bottom and makes it difficult for a short bed truck. I love that camper and just deal with it.

https://youtu.be/ADm9WFwVIvg

However if I ever get some extra cash I would consider one of the above options to replace mine just because of the Vengeance.
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Old 05-17-2018, 09:14 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by Electra glide View Post
My Vengeance has a "cool" nose cap that sticks out at the bottom and makes it difficult for a short bed truck. I love that camper and just deal with it.

https://youtu.be/ADm9WFwVIvg

However if I ever get some extra cash I would consider one of the above options to replace mine just because of the Vengeance.
Very nice it up for sure. That's pretty close.
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Old 05-17-2018, 09:27 AM   #60
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Well, I've thought and thought on this one.

Pro: Everyone that has one raves about it. Still, most raves are about how easy it is to remove from the bed, which is immaterial to me. And mine removes from the bed also, no problems.

Cons: Putting 4,000 lbs pin weight onto the surface area of a ball less than 3" in diameter. I can't get my mind around it.

Here's what an Engineer wrote in another forum on this very same type of discussion. It sums it up better than I can.

Interesting discussion, I didn't realize this hitch was popular.
It is a personal choice much like "flavors of ice cream". I'm sure it is a good product... "wait for it".....but:
For me Anderson doesn't look robust, thus for me it isn't (although I have never seen one in person). It requires an adapter, which for me, my pin "looks" more robust than the adapter ball. I don't use adapters on a torque wrench as the adapter changes the dynamics of the torque.

Curt has more surface area transferring the load of my 3700lbs pin weight to the hitch. My pin's job is to be locked in place, but does not carry any downward weight.

Curt is wider at the base, thus transferring that weight closer to my truck frame.

My curt makes no noise or chucking at all.

Hitch weight is not my concern, I have the truck payload, nor do I remove it.

Not sure if anyone is use the TrailAir with the Anderson, but for me, that would be a deal breaker as well.

Maybe when my hitch wears out, I will look closer at it.


I'm 70 (almost) and I can remove my two piece B&W just fine. I've needed to do it once. I might need to do it once more in the next few years. But it's very rare. Removing a hitch is NOT why I buy a hitch anyway. It's not even on the list. Safety, strength, durability, functionality. In that order.
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