Height of new F350

[swampdonkey772]

Originally Posted by roddiemacdonald

Wondering if you get a chance if it's no problem, how high is the top plate of your hitch off the bed? Maybe mine is low enough

Its 17 inches from plate to bed.

[roddiemacdonald]

Originally Posted by swampdonkey772

Its 17 inches from plate to bed.

Tks eh

[swampdonkey772]

Originally Posted by roddiemacdonald

Tks eh

No problem. That's with the BW all the way at the bottom. It gives me about 4 inches between the sides of the bed and the overhang

[sparkycamper]

Originally Posted by roddiemacdonald

I have a 4x4 Liriat now and when I put it beside the 2019 same model, there is a significant height difference.

Thanks all, looks like I’m going to have to do some measuring and check some things out.

May have to bite the bullet and go chev or dodge after all these years.

I think it all depends on height of you 5er. I have a B&W hitch set as low as possible and still have plenty of clearance.

[roddiemacdonald]

Originally Posted by Kaadk

My Surveyor only makes my F250 (with Camper package) squat 1". I actually wish I had "more" squat to compensate for my nose high issues.

No you don't want more squat,,, that'll make your headlights shine higher at night and you'll always get blinked at,,,, been there.

[roddiemacdonald]

Originally Posted by tomkatb

During the shopping exercise last year I discovered that fivers vari in height to the bottom of the front area from 58”. To 64” or so. More expensive fivers were taller.

Most tow vehicles bed rail heights were 58” to 60” for stock trucks. Duallys were lower. Some older fivers are even lower.

The only fifth wheels I saw with adjustable heights was KZ.

I contacted my first choice manufacturer and they told me any adjustment of their fiver voided the warranty.

One trailer dealer said, “it’s no big deal. All the fivers we sell go out of here nose high”.

My CC Hathaway is level.

Measure and plan ahead. I think it is a good idea to be level.

I have a Cedar Creek Hathaway as well so I'm hoping the height will be OK.

[Jack350]

I have a F350 and changed the rear spring blocks. Went from the 4 inch and put in Ford 2 inch blocks. Truck still has 1 inch of rake and looks great. 5th wheel is very close to level.

[roddiemacdonald]

Originally Posted by Jack350

I have a F350 and changed the rear spring blocks. Went from the 4 inch and put in Ford 2 inch blocks. Truck still has 1 inch of rake and looks great. 5th wheel is very close to level.

Sorry, but I don't know what "rake" is,

Was the downsizing to 2" done by the dealership, did you have to do anything to the front end

By making these changes, did it affect the warranty?

[Retired JSO]

My new F350 DRW FX4 is a bit taller than my 2007 DRW FX4 with the same equipment, tailgate = 58 1/2”.

[roddiemacdonald]

Little more research on a couple Ford truck owner forms,,,, seems like it’s an issue that ford doesn’t seem to be listening to.

Tks all

[Jack350]

Originally Posted by roddiemacdonald

Sorry, but I don't know what "rake" is,

Was the downsizing to 2" done by the dealership, did you have to do anything to the front end

By making these changes, did it affect the warranty?

Rake is difference in truck height front to back. Was almost 4 inches from factory. I did the work and purchased parts from selling dealer. This did not change the front suspension at all and the truck drives as new. Warranty is not affected, Ford would not even know if I didn't point it out. The original parts could also be put back in. The truck is also easier to load and use being 2 inches lower. I am very pleased with the change. If you look at a F350 dually, they usually have the smaller block from the factory.

[wabakami]

Originally Posted by Jack350

Rake is difference in truck height front to back. Was almost 4 inches from factory. I did the work and purchased parts from selling dealer. This did not change the front suspension at all and the truck drives as new. Warranty is not affected, Ford would not even know if I didn't point it out. The original parts could also be put back in. The truck is also easier to load and use being 2 inches lower. I am very pleased with the change. If you look at a F350 dually, they usually have the smaller block from the factory.

Jack, if you're two inches at the axle I'll bet you're close to three inches lower at the tailgate when its down for loading!


Geoff
.

[fred3]

Jack350,
Do you happen to have the part number for the 2" blocks? It would cost too much to go from the factory 20" wheels to 18" wheels and then I would only lose a inch anyway.

[acadianbob]

Originally Posted by fred3

Jack350,
Do you happen to have the part number for the 2" blocks? It would cost too much to go from the factory 20" wheels to 18" wheels and then I would only lose a inch anyway.

Go to Ford Truck Enthusiast Forum. There is discussion on lowering the rear, part numbers, pictures, how to, etc. Relatively easy to do and doesn't cost a ton. No negative effects reported.

Our Surveyor 5er was only 58" to the underside so we did have to trade it as our F250 is 59" to the top of the rail. The new Wildcat works just fine without altering the truck.

[acadianbob]

Link to thread on lowering rear end of newer Fords.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-rear-end.html

[17 Oaks]

Originally Posted by roddiemacdonald

Presently own a 2013 F250 and am upgrading to a 2019 F350. I tow a 5th wheel and my concern is, the box of the new F350's and even the F250's appear to be 8" to a foot higher off the ground then the model I presently have. My truck and trailer ride perfectly level now. So I'm assuming the new model will cause the 5th wheel trailer to ride higher in the front which of course is not desirable. I have a PullRite Superglide hitch which can not be adjusted or lowered in height, so that's not an option.

Are there any F250/350 owners out there of the new designed models years 17, 18 or 19 that can alleviate my concerns?

F 350 '17/'19. IF you buy new the rear sits up a bit higher, but it does not last as it takes some time for the truck to settle in.

My Jayco and Cedar Creek both sit perfect level with no adjustment to the pin box do I did have to adjust hitch.

Ignore the 2 arrows pointing to the 2 screws that was for another post I made.

[acadianbob]

Originally Posted by 17 Oaks

IF you buy new the rear sits up a bit higher, but it does not last as it takes some time for the truck to settle in.

Well, I've towed our 5er over 7,000 miles in the first year of our 2018 F250. 59" new and 58 1/2" now, but the fifth wheel hitch is still in the truck; 200 pounds. So, in my experience, there is little to no settling.

It does squat about 3" with the load of the pin however; just shy of engaging the overloads. That does help bring down the nose of the 5er.

[17 Oaks]

Originally Posted by acadianbob

Well, I've towed our 5er over 7,000 miles in the first year of our 2018 F250. 59" new and 58 1/2" now, but the fifth wheel hitch is still in the truck; 200 pounds. So, in my experience, there is little to no settling.

It does squat about 3" with the load of the pin however; just shy of engaging the overloads. That does help bring down the nose of the 5er.

My '17, 6.7, CC, LB, KR did set higher and it settled in quickly to perfectly level with my Jayco and Cedar creek

[Jack350]

Originally Posted by fred3

Jack350,
Do you happen to have the part number for the 2" blocks? It would cost too much to go from the factory 20" wheels to 18" wheels and then I would only lose a inch anyway.

Link to Ford forum for part numbers was given and has all the info you will need. The 18 and 20 inch wheel option choice have almost the same final diameter since the tire profiles are different. The block change will do the trick while keeping your 20 inch wheels.

[ADVtraveller]

It's not a major issue to change the height and lower the truck a couple inches in the back.
Wheel size such as 20" vs 18" doesn't determine ride height. Tire diameter / profile does. But if you go with a smaller diameter tire to lower the truck. You increase the revolutions a tire makes per mile. And will effect your mpg, throw your towing power / capability out of spec, and throw your dash mpg guage and speedo out of sync. If you change the tire diameter, you could regear your axles and get an electrical device to correct the guage. But now it's getting real expensive.
IMO, the best plan would be to lower the rear a little, or buy a lower truck from Ram or Chevy. Or do an axle flip and lift the trailer.
If it were me, I'd lift the trailer. It's pretty cheap and it'll leave your truck stock for safety and resale value.