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Old 08-22-2016, 08:03 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by fastalkintn View Post
No I haven't gone through the setup yet. Plan to this week, I trusted the dealer because he has always done good work in the past but I was obviously wrong this time.

As far as the difference between the e2 and the equalizer from what I have read the e2 only offers sway control from the friction created at the L-brackets or two point sway control. The equalizer has the friction control from the L-brackets but also has some sort of built in sway prevention at the hitch head for a total of 4 point sway control. I really don't understand how the hitch head works but it get great reviews. If I can't get satisfactory results after setting up my e2 I will go that route.
I believe you're correct with the difference. Both E2 and Equalizer are made by the same company. FWIW, I have a 1,000 lbs. E2 trunnion (square bar) and it works fine for my application.

As bikendan noted, short wheel based vehicles with a longer trailer may not be best suited for an E2 as there may not be enough sway control.
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Old 08-22-2016, 08:36 AM   #52
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The only real cure for " White Knuckles" is a Hensley Hitch or a Pro-Pride Hitch, everything else is just 'works sometimes or works most times'.
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Old 08-22-2016, 12:58 PM   #53
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The only real cure for " White Knuckles" is a Hensley Hitch or a Pro-Pride Hitch, everything else is just 'works sometimes or works most times'.
Never tried an Andersen, did ya? NO sway period.
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Old 08-22-2016, 02:21 PM   #54
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I believe you're correct with the difference. Both E2 and Equalizer are made by the same company.
One difference, the E2 is made in China while the 4pt Equal-i-zer is American made.
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Old 08-22-2016, 09:50 PM   #55
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Never tried an Andersen, did ya? NO sway period.
Had an Andersen with first trailer and loved it. I transferred it to the new trailer had more sway than trees in a hurricane. Tried several redo's nothing really worked and the scales proved it.

Went with Blue Ox, there was an instant difference in sway. It takes a heavy truck or a light trailer for the Andersen to perform well. I not endorsing Blue Ox but it performs quite well and its quiet. It has its issues, they all have their own issues, even Hensley and Pro Pride.
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Old 08-23-2016, 04:36 PM   #56
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I read thru 2 of 6 pages, and so far nobody picked up on something the OP said in the very first post. Maybe page 3-6 found it, but I don't have the time.

He said the front end is 240 lbs lighter with the WDH engaged, compared to when the trailer is not attached. That a no-no in WDH-101 school. The primary goal of any WDH is to get all lost weight back onto the front axle. You want the front loading back to stock, for proper handling. So there definitely needs to be more weight distribution happening, and whether E2 or E4 (4pt) should not matter for that. If not already done, transfer more weight until you are close to stock front wheel weight (or height).

As far as the instability, with integrated sway control, if you aren't transferring enough weight, then you are loading the bars enough...which means you aren't developing as much friction as you should be to control sway. So, fixing the WD issue could very well fix (or significantly help) the stability.

I would also ask about proper TW (10-15%), tire inflation, etc. I don't see an issue with the trailer size. 7600 lbs GVWR behind 9300 lbs max tow rating should be fine. Most travel trailers don't get loaded close to GVWR anyway.
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Old 08-23-2016, 04:40 PM   #57
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That's why I said, Get the instructions out and start the set up all over and adjust as needed to get as close as possible correct then decide if you need a different WDH!

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Old 08-23-2016, 04:45 PM   #58
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Regarding E2 vs 4pt Equalizer (aka "E4"), yes, the main difference is more sway control from the head design. The square bars fit into square sockets that pivot at the head. The pivot points are large bolts that come thru the top of the head, thru the sockets, and out the bottom portion of the head. The nut at the bottom is torqued tight, which squeezes the top and bottom of the head against the sockets. This provide rotational friction between the sockets and the head. It's important to keep these cleaned and greased periodically. Ask me how I know. But that's why sway control is superior.
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Old 08-23-2016, 04:56 PM   #59
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I have the E2 hitch. I had to add a couple washers to get more weight to the front of my TV. I also put LT Coopers on my TV in place of the P rated Goodyears that were on there. I got rid of most of the sway that way but still had a little porpoising. Had air lift helper springs installed on the back of my TV. I experimented with the pressure a little and found that about 60psi gets rid of the porpoising. Get to feel a lot more of the road but it's a trade off that I'll take. I also keep the Coopers at 80psi. All this helped out quite a bit. Hope the info helps you.
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Old 08-23-2016, 05:16 PM   #60
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Part of the problem is the sway bar mount. Looks like whoever welded it put it in the wrong location. The geometry is off. The way it is currently setup, when sway occurs (which really is just like a normal turn), the sway bar is not getting the proper stroke.
Agree 100%. The sway bar mount MUST be 90° to the hitch which makes it parallel to the bumper. See attached .pdf file.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Friction sway bar mount.pdf (115.1 KB, 28 views)
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