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Old 10-02-2013, 10:15 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by avolnek View Post
I agree with a part of this. I believe that the front SHOULD NOT move up!......
...Just my opinion.
What you don't want is to over adjust and get the front pointing down. I guess I would set the WDH as recommended by the mfgr. Refer to my previous post for the link to how to install an Equalizer 4 hitch. I set mine up per the installation manual and so far this year have pulled my 30' TT with my F-150 Eco over 5500 miles with nary an issue. Good luck..
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Old 10-02-2013, 01:38 PM   #22
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Thank You All!!!
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Old 10-03-2013, 11:14 PM   #23
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Here an update!

All measurements are dialed in now, just concerns me that the left part of spring arm is lower than the right, with a slight noticeable bend in the middle.
Does it suppose to look like that? does anyone notice that bend? Did I not do a right setup? T/T and TV are leveled.
all input welcome...
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:36 AM   #24
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To make it so the bars are level, which is ideal but not mandatory, you would need to add washers in between the head assembly and shank of the hitch. Thus tilting the head of the ball and the bars downward. Then you would be able to drop the saddle brackets down. Getting the bars level creates more surface are of the bar and saddle brackets rubbing, which creates more friction, which produces more sway control/resistance.

The bend in the bar is normal and nothing to be concerned about. Shows that you are exerting some force to install the bars as one should be.


I would also agree with the comment a few posts back saying that it would be bad if the tow vehicle leaned forward (tail high). The factory will actually rake the trucks forward for a few reasons, aerodynamics, allows the truck to ride level when weight is applied to the rear and for stability. It is similar to standing. If you want to be more stable you will generally place a little more weight towards the front and/or lean forward. If you do the opposite it is easier to loose ones balance and sway. Now how many of you just tried this while reading it!? BE HONEST!!!
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Old 10-04-2013, 11:00 AM   #25
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Bars should be parallel to frame. Add a couple of washers and drop the L brackets down a couple of notches. Adjustment should be done with washers until you reach the maximum of eight, then use the L brackets for further adjustment. This is right from the manual.
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Old 10-04-2013, 11:59 AM   #26
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I skip the washer part....oops !!! It's has four washers.on there right now, and does any kind of washer will do? Of course being the same size.
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Old 10-04-2013, 12:01 PM   #27
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Technically, yes, any washer will work... You "should" use the ones they provide if at all possible. But I have some stainless ones I had in my garage in mine to fine tune the pressure of my hitch...
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Old 10-04-2013, 12:08 PM   #28
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Thank you ! I will try later and update !
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Old 10-04-2013, 08:34 PM   #29
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Ok folks , got it !!! Added some washers and than lowered the L bracket one more notch and, all is good.....test drive tonight when I get off work.... Thank you all!!!!
Oh yea , now I am going to load the back of the bed of the TV with a generator, bikes and ice chest, if it drops than ?? How many inches, I should add air bags? Any ideas what am I looking for in drop ?
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:48 PM   #30
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There isn't a set amount of drop that is tolerable. I would suggest figuring if this trip would be about the heaviest you would plan to load the truck and see how the truck re acts. If the truck squats to a point where it is lower in the back than the front I would suggest air bags! Air bags are a great tool regardless of the scenario! I would suggest loading the truck as heavy as you think you ever will and step back a good ways and seeing how the truck looks... Take pics and share!!!
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