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Old 07-07-2014, 09:18 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by htorres View Post
Quick question, when you have the heavy swaying going is your fresh water tank or any of the other tanks full or empty?
we always travel with tanks empty

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Old 07-07-2014, 01:02 PM   #42
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Here are some pictures after we pulled the camper and put on road, my husband put his level on the road to make sure it was a level spot and we measured from the ground to wheel well on truck finding that the back tires were 35.5" and front were close to 37" so there is a bit of squat, but when measuring the trailer frame to ground we find the back is about 2" higher then that the best wait to measure trailer? We are taking this to RV dealer in about an hour and would like any advice we can get!! We are thinking of having them change the L bracket I think its called where the sway bar hooks to trailer so that it shows 2 holes on top and 2 holes on bottom (right now shows 1 top and 3 bottom) but really wondering if we need what you guys are calling the 4 point sway system? or the one that goes side to side instead of front to back......again really pushing to get my husband to let us pull the TT to Tennessee But do want to be safe as we have not only us by 3 little ones
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:11 PM   #43
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Measure your fender wells on your truck unloaded first and make sure they are the same unloaded. It is possible that one could be higher than the rest when the truck is level. Not sure, but it wouldn't surprise me. I'd say you just need some adjustment in the hitch and sway setup. You dealer should be professionals at it and should be able to adjust with your input. I just bought a 34.5ft TT and it rides really good, granted my truck is a1-ton with training wheels. You shouldn't be having the issues you are having. Explain it all to the dealer and get them to make adjustments. Be there if you can and have them explain what they are doing and why. Free advice is always a plus.
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:16 PM   #44
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I'm no expert but the pictures look to me like you need to transfer more weight to the front.

Ideally when you are hitched up and loaded the distance from the ground to the front tire wheel well is the same as unloaded and no trailer. It is ok to be somewhat higher but not lower in the front. The rear can be somewhat lower. Your trucks rear end should also sit higher once the load is transferred correctly. As an example my Explorer is 1/4" higher in the front and about 1/2" lower in the back fully loaded and the trailer is attached. The trailer itself is just about level (a slight bit lower in the front).
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:11 PM   #45
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Nice rig!!!......I agree with the rest of the fellows here. it's a matter of some adjustments and your RV folks can set up the hitch height correctly and you will be on your way.....soon you will be at a nice place having a nice cold one with this matter behind you, remember keep this baby at the recommended speed limits, Happy camping.
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:26 PM   #46
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As stated above, need more weight transfer to the front. You have too much rear squat. On the tt I measured both front and rear corners of the box. On the tv use painters tape to mark a spot on fender and ground to make sure you measure the same place hitched and unhitched.
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:39 PM   #47
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looks like a 1-1/2" on the camper. Like others have said,get more weight on front axle. I know chevy likes the front back to stock height and not below. I would still go for the 4pt hitch. 12k or 14k.

My dealer never adjusted any of my wdh right. Learn to tune your hitch yourself imo.
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:57 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by 4x4dually View Post
Measure your fender wells on your truck unloaded first and make sure they are the same unloaded.
Completely agree with this. If I remember correctly, what you want to do is measure both before and after hooking up the trailer. You have two goals with your setup. The first is to get the change in squat as close as possible over all 4 tires (that is, if the truck drops an inch in the rear, it should also drop an inch in the front, or as close as possible to an inch). The second is to get the trailer as level as possible. Both of these combined should make for a good setup, but it takes some tinkering and playing around with to get it perfect and can vary from truck to truck.
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Old 07-08-2014, 06:04 AM   #49
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Really hard to say from pics, but I had the same problem when I first got my trailer... dealer had hitch setup all wrong and kept telling me it was fine... never felt in control going down the road. I ended up taking it to a cat scale and adjusting it there... found I had very little weight transfer back to the front axle, which I suspect you have as well. In the end all I needed was 1 more hole up on the L bracket. My hitch is a equalizer, which is the 4 point control though.. don't know about the e2. I ended up also upgrading tires to E load too.. that got it pretty good, but I was still at the hairy edge with my axle weight on the Chevy 1500... traded it off for a Ram 2500 diesel. .. have no issues pulling it now.

Long story short... raise Let brackets one hole... drive to scale and tweak from there (goal is to get front axle weight back close to unloaded weight). Make sure u have D or E rated tires on rear of truck.
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Old 07-08-2014, 07:27 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by tcsorenson View Post
We purchased a 2014 Puma 35ft with 3 slides and pulling with a 1999 Chev 2500 and are having some sway issues. /........
Also notice a lot of bounce in the truck (so much that our son asked for a puke bucket in the back seat LOL)
Any idea's?? my wife is scared to ride in the truck because of the sway!
Any help would be appreciated!
Todd Sorenson
A quick question on the truck - when was the last time the shocks were changed, springs checked for sag or flattening, front sway bar bushing checked etc.

I use the same hitch on a 37ft 1200lb tongue setup - it works well when adjusted but will be hampered by worn truck components.


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