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Old 07-04-2014, 03:05 PM   #21
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Not at all, we live in "Hawkeye land" too, and have been putting trailers behind our truck or cars behind a motorhome since 1992. I guess thats why they"re called TRAVEL TRAILERS! Good luck on getting the towing issue under control. Lot's of smart folks here to give you great info and assistance!
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Old 07-04-2014, 03:08 PM   #22
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oh great to hear that! And yes this group is AWESOME! Will let you know what we figure out
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Old 07-04-2014, 03:12 PM   #23
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I agree with oc. You need to lower the front of the trailer.
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:01 PM   #24
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we do carry firewood in the back of the truck along with kids bikes should we not be doing that? And once we get the hitch lowered and fix this sway problem would it be a bad decision to put a bike rack on back of trailer? any other idea's for carrying bikes?
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:04 PM   #25
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I am amazed there is no sway control arms attached.
It has been recommended to me that a trailer over 30 feet has two sway controls attached.
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:05 PM   #26
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That hitch head don't look like no equalizer I've seen before. The bars and L brackets look like an equalizer. .
Mixed system??? Mine is a 4 point equalizer no sway hitch. Handles my 8500lbs 38 foot trailer no problem
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:11 PM   #27
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I see where it says E2 on your WDH but I don't see any sway control arms. My Anderson probably would not be a good choice for your weight and length so maybe others will chime in on what works for them- maybe a four point?


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Old 07-04-2014, 08:02 PM   #28
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I'll agree with OC on readjusting. The front wheels need weight pushing down on them by lifting up on the hitch bars. You need the truck fairly level and then adjust the height of trailer to have it level also.
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Old 07-04-2014, 08:28 PM   #29
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See if you can raise the L brackets up one notch. Installation manual days țo start with two holes exposed on top and two on the bottom. Also make sure to tighten the angle bolt on the bottom of the hitch head 1/2 turn age it contacts the head but do this with the trailer hitched.

We just got ours and I had to re tighten the bolt when we got home from the dealer. I forgot to do it before we left and it was porposing pretty bad
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Old 07-04-2014, 08:51 PM   #30
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That is a fastway E2 hitch (same company as equalizer). This hitch only has two point for sway control, not 4 like the equalizer. This trailer may be to big for the E2. I would start with OC's comment about getting your setup more level and see if it helps (hopefully it will) but you may need more sway control then the E2 can give you. The E2 works great on my trailer but it is only 3500 lbs and 20 feet.
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Old 07-05-2014, 12:44 AM   #31
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As others have said you are nose high on the trailer and have too much squat on the truck. The problem is I don't think you can go any lower on your drop shank. They gave you too short of a drop to get the tt level (you want to be level or slightly nose down, never nose high). Next you need to transfer more weight to the front of the truck. This thread might help you better understand how to fix this issue.

In terms of loading stuff in the truck. As long as you aren't overloaded on payload you should be fine. We used to put bikes in the bed of the truck all the time when we had a tt. There are two camps on putting bikes on the rear of the tt. Some say no problem, others will tell you your bumper will fail and the bikes will be lost. We chose not to take the chance.

Once you get our hitch dialed in better you can decide whether or not you need to add an additional friction sway bar or two.
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Old 07-05-2014, 01:12 AM   #32
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I cannot really tell by looking at these pics if the nose of the trailer is too high or not as I can't see the entire trailer. It does have that appearance, but the trailer has a body that angles up in the front and exposes the frame/tongue of the trailer giving it the appearance that it is nose high. Perhaps a pick the shows the entire truck and trailer would help me see that.

One thing I do see though is that the bars mounted to the frame of the trailer the WDH bars connect to appear to have a slight forward angle to them. I would think these should be completely perpendicular and square to the trailer frame so the the sway bars are making as much contact with them as possible. Maybe not necessary, but it could have an impact overall ???
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Old 07-05-2014, 09:39 AM   #33
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I agree with QCCowboy, cant tell if the unit's level or not.

2014 Puma 35ft with 3 slides...Just looking Puma's on line in that size push the tongue weight of the hitch. Hitch Weight: 879 lbs. Bet the weight is way more then mfg spec.Mine was 200lbs plus over before gear at the Cat Scales.
Imo you could be under hitched to start with. I would tell my dealer how dangerous it is to tow and hitch trade up to the 4 point. (10k ,12k or 14k) Assuming your trucks suspension is in good shape.
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Old 07-06-2014, 04:01 AM   #34
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Greetings, I pull a 27ft Wildwood TT with a 1997 Ford F250. My set up is a Weight distribution hitch system and 1 anti sway bar (friction). this really does a fine job. I see from one of the pictures that you truck is low and not straight with your TT. this is probably causing some of the instability and bouncing. I will post pictures of my set up and see if it helps.
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Old 07-06-2014, 04:33 AM   #35
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Here is picture of my TT and TV at Yosemite.
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Old 07-06-2014, 06:53 PM   #36
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Thanks for everyone's help and idea's, tomorrow is my day off and I'm going to hook up the camper and pull it to level ground and take some full view photo's of truck and camper, also going to copy /paste some of the advice we were given and take to our local RV dealer and see if they can help me out on this, I am not mechanically inclined AT ALL...... as far as pulling the trailer to Tn from home (Iowa) I think we're going to pass this year til I feel more comfortable with the unit. We are camping 40 miles away this coming weekend and hoping to see a huge difference, again I thank everyone and will let you know what we find out
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Old 07-06-2014, 07:06 PM   #37
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When you are on the level ground take some time and go through the hitch installation measurements. This will tell you right away what type of adjustments you need to make or eliminate the hitch setup as the problem. It is all in the installation manual and isn't very complicated to do.
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Old 07-06-2014, 07:48 PM   #38
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I know when you take truck measurements from the top of each wheel well (front & rear) to the ground and compare them when you have your TT all hooked up you will have a clue the to what's going on. If measurements on both front & rear drop close to the same things are looking good. But if not, start looking at all the adjustments needed to get it there. I started pulling a 26' TT with a Mercury Mountaineer and couldn't get past 40 MPH. In a short I was cruising 65-70 all day long. My trick was to keep the truck at the same level empty and all loaded fully hooked up. Good luck!!!
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:30 PM   #39
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Quick question, when you have the heavy swaying going is your fresh water tank or any of the other tanks full or empty?
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:36 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htorres View Post
Quick question, when you have the heavy swaying going is your fresh water tank or any of the other tanks full or empty?
I kept mine empty because it was in the front of the TT & was max'd out.
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