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Old 07-26-2014, 08:15 AM   #1
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Help with Weight Distribution Hitch

I have a quick question about my Husky weight distribution hitch. I've been towing since before I could legally drive, but this is my first WDH. With the bar set on the 2nd link, I was getting about 1.25" difference in sag. I went up to the 3rd link and I'm almost dead on (<1/4" difference). However, I had to 'pre-lift' the hitch 7" in order to get the 3rd link on (from what I've read, 3"-4" of pre-lift is usually all it takes). My concern is whether or not I have too much tension on the bars now. My tow configuration is no what you'd typically see but everything is within weight specs.

Vehicle: 2013 VW Touareg TDI
Trailer: 2015 XLR 24HFS
WDH: Husky with anti-sway bar

Any help is appreciated. I want to make sure I'm not going to hear a loud SNAP on my way to Indianapolis in a couple weeks...
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Old 07-26-2014, 08:26 AM   #2
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The only Member I personally know that tows with a VW Touareg is (DDC) he uses a (Hennsley).That setup does Great for Him! Youroo!!
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Old 07-26-2014, 08:39 AM   #3
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Also his hitch was beefed up by can-am I believe...tho can am recommends a torsion lift like the eaz lift.....
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Old 07-26-2014, 08:54 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klarowe View Post
....With the bar set on the 2nd link, I was getting about 1.25" difference in sag. I went up to the 3rd link and I'm almost dead on (<1/4" difference). However, I had to 'pre-lift' the hitch 7" in order to get the 3rd link on (from what I've read, 3"-4" of pre-lift is usually all it takes). My concern is whether or not I have too much tension on the bars now. My tow configuration is no what you'd typically see but everything is within weight specs.

Vehicle: 2013 VW Touareg TDI
Trailer: 2015 XLR 24HFS
WDH: Husky with anti-sway bar

Any help is appreciated. I want to make sure I'm not going to hear a loud SNAP on my way to Indianapolis in a couple weeks...
I doubt you will hear the loud SNAP if everything is rated correctly, but...

I'm not a WDH expert. But this is what I would do in your situation:

I would take the time to test drive both configurations, and check both configurations at a scale. Do this before the trip, so you know which configuration YOU prefer. The idea is to both measure and test how much weight you are transferring, and whether or not this gives you the desired ride or not.

No, I have never measured how much I have to lift the hitch to get the bars on. I crank (manually) until I can feel the extra effort to raise things further. At that point, the bars go on/off easily. I suspect I am using the entire suspension travel of my minivan, which is why the rather sudden increased extra effort to raise any further.

just my thoughts
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Old 07-27-2014, 12:39 PM   #5
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After I got thinking of it, the trailer has a measured tongue weight of around 700lbs (depending on how it's loaded). Therefore the absolute greatest amount of pressure is only going to be roughly 350lbs on each bar. Since the bars are rated for 1200lbs, I am pretty certain I am worrying over nothing. I towed it about an hour this weekend and she towed like a dream... not a huge noticeable difference from when I towed it home from NH on the second chain link, but there was a bit of a difference in the vehicle bounce on bumps. Either way, I think the setup will be alright. Thanks for the help!
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Old 07-27-2014, 09:33 PM   #6
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Did you get your hitch upgraded like CanAm does? The factory hitches twist with a WDH.
Also, so you have air suspension like on the Porsches(same chassis).
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Old 07-27-2014, 09:48 PM   #7
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Supposedly the factory hitch issue was corrected in the newer model (also got rid of the air suspension). That was one of the big things I checked prior to buying a TT. I have no desire to modify my factory hitch. The trailer is well within the limits so if twisting does occur, it will be covered under warranty.

Also, I did learn that I apparently was reading old / outdated methods of connecting and setting the WDH. Apparently now they say that there should be no drop in the front suspension... which makes sense; more weight on the front could lead to unwanted oversteer. Which means that my 2nd link setting was correct (only had 1/8" rise in the front).
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Old 07-27-2014, 09:53 PM   #8
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I had mine setup by CAN-Am in London Ontario, VW does not recommend using a WDH, what CAN-AM did was to put a tube from the which forward to the centre of the rear axle, this allows the WDH to be able to move the weight forward and balance things out, the reason this is done is because the bolts holding the hitch on would loosen so keep an eye on that.
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Old 07-27-2014, 10:14 PM   #9
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According to my dealer and some things I found online, VW does recommend using a WDH on any trailer over a certain weight (can't remember exactly what that weight was). I do however see that the manual says not to install a WDH. My only assumption to that it is one of those 'cover your *****' statements. I personally know of a few people who have towed with their Touareg without issue and multiple others on the VW forum that have even gone over the weight capacities with no issues or modifications.

I will definitely keep a close eye on the bolts and hitch framing to make sure it doesn't start twisting. I may look into modifying the frame, but I would rather check with the dealer first... definitely don't want to give them a reason to deny any warranty work (WDH is easy to remove). Either way, thanks for the heads up!
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Old 07-27-2014, 10:45 PM   #10
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The other issue regarding the manual is that it contradicts what the hitch sticker itself says... which makes it sound even more like just a CYA statement. Although I have not personally spoken with CanAm, there are multiple members of the VW forum community that have spoken with Andy at CanAm and were told "that the Touareg hitch is very strong and underrated. A WD hitch can and should be used as long as you don't exceed the weight ratings and load the trailer/car properly".
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Old 08-01-2014, 11:51 AM   #11
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I don't understand your method for setting the WDH (ie, XX amount difference in sag). Do you mean that you are trying to get the front and rear to drop ("sag") and equal amount, compared to when the trailer is disconnected?

Typical setting instructions:
-Measure height of front and rear wheel wells, before attaching trailer.
-Attach trailer and engage WDH. If trailer is not level, make necessary adjustments.
-Check front wheel well height. When properly set, it will be back to the original height when trailer was disconnected.

From your description, it sounds like you may have it set such that the front is lower than original. Unless you have a 3/4-ton truck or better, this will likely have your front axle overloaded! And if you have it set so tight that the rear wheel well is higher than stock, you REALLY have a safety issue!

Large trucks can go for equal-compression, letting the front drop lower than stock, because they have additional capacity in the front axle for think like snowplows, etc. I don't think your VW can handle such additional loading. For most of us, getting the front back to stock is the most you should go.
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Old 08-01-2014, 11:57 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrakeman View Post
I don't understand your method for setting the WDH (ie, XX amount difference in sag). Do you mean that you are trying to get the front and rear to drop ("sag") and equal amount, compared to when the trailer is disconnected?

Typical setting instructions:
-Measure height of front and rear wheel wells, before attaching trailer.
-Attach trailer and engage WDH. If trailer is not level, make necessary adjustments.
-Check front wheel well height. When properly set, it will be back to the original height when trailer was disconnected.

From your description, it sounds like you may have it set such that the front is lower than original. Unless you have a 3/4-ton truck or better, this will likely have your front axle overloaded! And if you have it set so tight that the rear wheel well is higher than stock, you REALLY have a safety issue!

Large trucks can go for equal-compression, letting the front drop lower than stock, because they have additional capacity in the front axle for think like snowplows, etc. I don't think your VW can handle such additional loading. For most of us, getting the front back to stock is the most you should go.
Yes, that is how I originally had it set up per the instructions I had found online (I believe it was a video by Eaz-lift). I have since learned my incorrect ways and next time I have it hooked up, I will be setting it up correctly (front wheel well returning back to unhitched height).
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