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Old 05-13-2015, 08:48 PM   #21
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We got lucky! Our son-in-law saw the sag on our 2500 RAM 4X4, Diesel, 2011 pulling our 5th wheel, GVWR = 14000, and bought us the air bags. He and I put them on, took maybe an hour. What a difference!!!!!!! We are so grateful and w/o sag and a dream pull now.
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Old 05-14-2015, 09:47 AM   #22
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Thanks for all the excellent information and suggestions.

Before I do anything, I'm going to get the trailer and make some measurements to see just how much of a sag I'm actually getting and will measure both the rear and front of the truck. Then I'll ask my dealer for his suggestions as he's the one who installed the WDH hitch.

Happy Camping!!
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Old 05-14-2015, 11:02 AM   #23
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Also have a Tundra 2011 and Firestone air bags is the answer, filled to 50 pads each
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Old 05-14-2015, 11:19 AM   #24
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You need to look at the front of the truck and not the rear 1st. The front of the truck should be close to the same height as when unloaded. Measure the front fender from the ground up unloaded, then hitch up and measure again. You want the weight distribution hitch to transfer lost weight back to the front. So after hitching up the front should measure the same or as close to the same as when unloaded.


Now for the rear. It's normal for the rear to sag. That's why the rear is higher than the front when unloaded. You will have sag when hitching up, you just don't want the rear to sag more than the front. So if the rear is 2" higher when unloaded then it shouldn't sag more than 2". Sounds to me like you need to load up your trailer like you're going camping and reset the WD bars. Also that TT has an 810lb dry tongue weight. Add propane, batteries and front storage cargo along with what ever's in front of the TT's axles and you probably are pushing 1100lbs for tongue weight. You need at least 1400lb WD bars. I don't think 1200lb bars would do it as 1/2 tons are generally soft in the rear so you'll need all the lift you can get for weight transfer.


Also you need to go to some truck scales and weigh your whole setup. You need to find out what the tongue weighs. You could be over the Tundra's receiver rating.
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Old 05-14-2015, 02:11 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by goduc View Post
You need to look at the front of the truck and not the rear 1st. The front of the truck should be close to the same height as when unloaded. Measure the front fender from the ground up unloaded, then hitch up and measure again. You want the weight distribution hitch to transfer lost weight back to the front. So after hitching up the front should measure the same or as close to the same as when unloaded.


Now for the rear. It's normal for the rear to sag. That's why the rear is higher than the front when unloaded. You will have sag when hitching up, you just don't want the rear to sag more than the front. So if the rear is 2" higher when unloaded then it shouldn't sag more than 2". Sounds to me like you need to load up your trailer like you're going camping and reset the WD bars. Also that TT has an 810lb dry tongue weight. Add propane, batteries and front storage cargo along with what ever's in front of the TT's axles and you probably are pushing 1100lbs for tongue weight. You need at least 1400lb WD bars. I don't think 1200lb bars would do it as 1/2 tons are generally soft in the rear so you'll need all the lift you can get for weight transfer.


Also you need to go to some truck scales and weigh your whole setup. You need to find out what the tongue weighs. You could be over the Tundra's receiver rating.
That's what I posted a few posts back. First thing should be getting the WDH set correctly, period.
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Old 05-14-2015, 04:40 PM   #26
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Before I do anything, I'm going to get the trailer and make some measurements to see just how much of a sag I'm actually getting and will measure both the rear and front of the truck.
Now you're talking, sir. Measure!
My 2010 Tundra drops 2" in the rear when hooked up with my Equal-I-zer WDH. Since you're jacking the rear UP to attach your hitch, you may not be getting the sag you think by eyeballing it.
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Old 05-14-2015, 05:36 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by ColoradoRick View Post
Thanks for all the excellent information and suggestions.

Before I do anything, I'm going to get the trailer and make some measurements to see just how much of a sag I'm actually getting and will measure both the rear and front of the truck. Then I'll ask my dealer for his suggestions as he's the one who installed the WDH hitch.

Happy Camping!!
My dealer did a terrible job of installing my WDH so never assume it's been done correctly.
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Old 05-14-2015, 07:02 PM   #28
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I found an excellent Youtube video on setting up my hitch, which is called the Equalizer.

I'll be bringing my trailer to the house and running through everything and checking the measurements.

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Old 05-15-2015, 08:28 AM   #29
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My dealer did a terrible job of installing my WDH so never assume it's been done correctly.
X2. Learn how to do this yourself. My old dealership did one of the worst setup jobs the forums had sermon my old Reese dual cam. Lots of learning and adjusting later, I had a much better ride.
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Old 05-15-2015, 09:45 AM   #30
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Rick you never said if you had the (truck/trailer) weighed? Do you know what the hitch weight is? Most everyone here is so quick to jump in and say (add air bags) Yes air bags are great BUT they do not change the tow rating, the first thing you need to do is have the setup weighed and also know what your hitch weight is, you might need a weight distribution hitch as this type of hitch moves weight around as you pull up on the bars. This is very common for heavy trailer to push down on your truck, but do make you and everyone else on the road safe start with your weights. No after all this you might still need air bags to level the truck off, but start with the hitch.
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