Hi-Temp Brake Fluid

[LKicklight]

Recently I have been reading up on High Temp. Brake Fluids for not only Tow Vehicles but other RV uses as well. With some mountain driving conditions coming up for us in the future, I think an extra edge of having this better than factory brake fluid would be a tremendous asset according to what I have read. One condition that people get confussed with a brake rotor out of round situation is, when the brake fluid gets hot, it causes the brakes to " chatter " under a heavy braking, thereby giving the driver a false reading as to what is actually going on. The better High Temp Brake Fluids helps to reduce and eliminate this condition. Wondering if anyone else has some experience with these products. High Temp Blue Brake Fluid.

[OldCoot]

Just read a couple of reviews of guys who changed it on their cars and both reported the pedal pressure require to stop increased significantly. Both said the first time they stopped it scared them but after a couple of days, they liked it. Both were going to do some sort of pedal mod. I would guess to increase the length of the pedal arm.

[B47]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Just read a couple of reviews of guys who changed it on their cars and both reported the pedal pressure require to stop increased significantly. Both said the first time they stopped it scared them but after a couple of days, they liked it. Both were going to do some sort of pedal mod. I would guess to increase the length of the pedal arm.

This topic is also in the PPP thread.

If I had any doubts at all about using this, just hearing that some sort of brake pedal mod may be needed is all I would need to walk away.

ymmv.

[Jon_Celia]

I was a 12 year BMW CCA member and an owner of an older vintage BMW.

ATE racing blue brake fluid was recommended for years as an upgrade, but several years ago, there was a long term study done by the club and they found this fluid absorbed moisture faster than standard dot 4 fluid.

Most people who use the racing fluid change the fluid after each race, so the higher temp fluid was great for this, but not for street cars that only change the fluid every two or three years.

I used ATE racing blue in my car and my 01 Dodge 3500 for a number of years. I changed them everyother year and had no problem. At my last change, I went back to standard dot 4 fluid.

There was NO change in pedal height with ATE from my experience. If the fluid had not been changed for many years, I could see how the pedal feel would be so different. With so much air in the system, the brake pedal was probably really spongy feeling.

Thanks.

Jon

[Bill_C]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Just read a couple of reviews of guys who changed it on their cars and both reported the pedal pressure require to stop increased significantly. Both said the first time they stopped it scared them but after a couple of days, they liked it. Both were going to do some sort of pedal mod. I would guess to increase the length of the pedal arm.

I believe all brake fluid these days, even from the factory, is high temperature due to the high temperatures brake pads produce.

As for more pedal pressure required to stop. It is all in their minds. You could use water, as long as it did not boil, and it would take the same pedal pressure to stop as any fluid would. Pressure is pressure, physics is physics. You can't change what can't be changed and fluid pressure in a brake system is one of those items.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Bill_C

I believe all brake fluid these days, even from the factory, is high temperature due to the high temperatures brake pads produce.

As for more pedal pressure required to stop. It is all in their minds. You could use water, as long as it did not boil, and it would take the same pedal pressure to stop as any fluid would. Pressure is pressure, physics is physics. You can't change what can't be changed and fluid pressure in a brake system is one of those items.

I agree with you 100%, that the pressure should not change one iota.

I just quoted what the 2 guys reported.

[Sgt. Schultz]

I know up here I like to use DOT4 LV http://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/Pentosin_Dot4_LV.pdf fluid in my car and DOT 4 in the truck (the car gets more use in the below -30 & colder temps) while the truck IMHO benefits from the higher boiling point of DOT4 -- Just remember do not mix DOT3/4 or 5.1 with DOT5 (Silicone based) -- they do not mix and may require significant effort to clean up / repair

IMHO Change your brake fluid every 24 months considering this for the truck on the next brake flush
ATE -Our Featured Product for Electronic Brake Systems

Dry boiling point Wet boiling point
DOT 3 205 °C (401 °F) 140 °C (284 °F)
DOT 4 230 °C (446 °F) 155 °C (311 °F)
DOT 5 260 °C (500 °F) 180 °C (356 °F)
DOT 5.1 260 °C (500 °F) 180 °C (356 °F)

[Bolt guy]

I changed the brake fluid in my 10 year old Dodge Ram 1500 and the difference in braking while pulling was amazing! I just used the stock fluid.

[LKicklight]

Wow, never knew that there was so much to learn about brake fluids. Like most, I have always used whatever the factory put in at the factory and then changed same every couple of years when brake pads etc; wore out. The one thing that has bugged me about todays brake fluids is, why there seems to be some much rust and contamination from everyday brake fluids and then, don't ever get any on your factory paint. Got to be something better as most fluids from the factory are always based on economics, the cheapest has to be the best. Like someone said, brake fluid should not change pedal pressure, if it does then you still need to bleed them puppies and with a bleeder up to the task and not just mechanical. After replacing the rubber brake hoses with Stainless Steel Braided Carbon Fiber and then installing then High Performance Fluid, the 2500HD stops almost like a new Corvette, which I have done the same thing too and I don't have to worry about spilling some on the finish by mistake.

[lickem66]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Just read a couple of reviews of guys who changed it on their cars and both reported the pedal pressure require to stop increased significantly. Both said the first time they stopped it scared them but after a couple of days, they liked it. Both were going to do some sort of pedal mod. I would guess to increase the length of the pedal arm.

I've used ATE Super Blue and Super Gold for years in my cars and love it. I originally started using them for track days on my BMWs but then soon realized that it makes flushes nicer too. Use Blue the first flush, then Gold the 2nd flush, Blue the 3rd, etc. With alternating the colors, you know when you've flushed out the old fluid.

As far as higher pedal pressures, I've never seen that in all the cars I've used it in.

[LKicklight]

For those who really want superior brakes on there tow vehicles, then switching to the Braided Stainless Steel Brake Hose will give you that. The rubber hoses expand under heavy braking, thereby losing some force to the pads. With the SS Hose, you do not, since they are carbon fiber they do not expand...more brake pressure to the pads...First did this mod on an 07' Z51 Corvette, which already had great brakes, now they are almost perfect and the pedal, yep it does feel different, but better..

[MillerTime]

Just a little fyi- if you wipe off the (brake) fluid in a timely manner after spilt on paint it will be fine. I do it all the time on factory finishes and also the dupont we use. Cant guarantee on other brands but havent had trouble with basf or sherwin williams either.

The problem seems to arise when the fluid is left in constant contact for an extended time- as is the same with many solvents. And yes I know this from experience (wasnt real good, the brake fluid part was luckily on a part that was discarded!)

[LKicklight]

Sorry to say that many people do not know what brake fluid will do to automobile paint. Some car collectors are a good example: say a 1965 Corvette Vert. show car, worth 90K with brake fluid damage when the owner sit the brake fluid reservoir cap on his fender, 3K later after the fender was painted. What I am saying, some people do not know the corrosive nature of Brake Fluid, some do..this is only for the ones that don't..

Originally Posted by MillerTime

Just a little fyi- if you wipe off the (brake) fluid in a timely manner after spilt on paint it will be fine. I do it all the time on factory finishes and also the dupont we use. Cant guarantee on other brands but havent had trouble with basf or sherwin williams either.

The problem seems to arise when the fluid is left in constant contact for an extended time- as is the same with many solvents. And yes I know this from experience (wasnt real good, the brake fluid part was luckily on a part that was discarded!)

[MillerTime]

I think corrosive is a little misleading, corosive brings bodily injury to my mind. And as of yet, after numerous hours of "playing" in it, the only side affect ive had is getting dirty. If it was corosive they wouldnt use steel brake lines, as well as stating on the bottle (at least on gm fluid) that is contains corrosion inhibitors.
- I think that "reacts with other petroleum based products" would possibly convey what your meaning with a little more clarity.

[LKicklight]

After restoring numerous automobiles in my 69 years on this ole earth, why is there so much rust and corrosion inside the brake lines from these old cars..seems as though water (condensation) has a perfect place to grow and contaminate the stainless steel brake lines to the point they have to be chunked and new replacements installed. Maybe its because we have so much condensation down south from all the heavy rain or maybe its the mud boogs we are always running our vehicles through. Yes, brake fluid is nasty and it is dirty and it does cause corrosion inside brake lines. The DOT 3 has been around for years and has not been improved on. The new Racing Fluids that are out today eliminate much of the above mentioned problems. The Dot 3 in my S-10 gets changed every brake pad replacement, and by then it needs it. In the Vette with the Blue Racing Fluid, the fluid was installed in 2007 and has not been changed since and still looks like brand new. Now running the Blue Fluid in the 2500 HD, with the Stainless Steel Braided Brake Hose with Carbon Fiber Hose Inside. The stopping improvement for the truck is at least 70% better than stock.

Originally Posted by MillerTime

I think corrosive is a little misleading, corosive brings bodily injury to my mind. And as of yet, after numerous hours of "playing" in it, the only side affect ive had is getting dirty. If it was corosive they wouldnt use steel brake lines, as well as stating on the bottle (at least on gm fluid) that is contains corrosion inhibitors.
- I think that "reacts with other petroleum based products" would possibly convey what your meaning with a little more clarity.

[OldCoot]

In the old fluids it is the water in the brake lines that rust the lines, not the fluid. Dot 3 has been replaced by Dot 4 & that by Dot 5. Have a can of the old pre-Dot 3 and the inside of the can is still shiny with no rust. It has also not been subjected to being heated and cooled like in a brake system.

[MillerTime]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

In the old fluids it is the water in the brake lines that rust the lines, not the fluid. Dot 3 has been replaced by Dot 4 & that by Dot 5. Have a can of the old pre-Dot 3 and the inside of the can is still shiny with no rust. It has also not been subjected to being heated and cooled like in a brake system.

X2
Also most lines are just steel unless someone upgraded them. I actually stuck a magnet on one today on a truck I was working on.

[LKicklight]

Pour some water in that shinny can and let it sit for about a month..yuk. The Racing Fluids do not allow any water to build up in the lines and the fluid...my point exactly...in the can, orange juice is fine til you put some vodka in it, then what happens, right your get drunk or rusted, which ever comes first...Good example is brake fluid used in military aircraft.
Lets just say, I am sold on the Blue Stuff and never going back to the Dot dot dot stuff....thanks

Originally Posted by OldCoot

In the old fluids it is the water in the brake lines that rust the lines, not the fluid. Dot 3 has been replaced by Dot 4 & that by Dot 5. Have a can of the old pre-Dot 3 and the inside of the can is still shiny with no rust. It has also not been subjected to being heated and cooled like in a brake system.

[OldCoot]

ATE Blue should also be changed every 3 yrs for the same reasons as other brake fluids. Water contamination. ATE -ATE Brake Fluid Company website.

It is classified as a Dot 4 even tho' it exceeds the Dot 4 requirements.

[LKicklight]

At $17.00 bucks a can, it had darn well exceed most anything, even moon shine.

Originally Posted by OldCoot

ATE Blue should also be changed every 3 yrs for the same reasons as other brake fluids. Water contamination. ATE -ATE Brake Fluid

It is classified as a Dot 4 even tho' it exceeds the Dot 4 requirements.