Hitch falls apart in u-turn?

[Wolverine 1945]

Originally Posted by WolfWhistle

There are no brackets, per se, to move. There are cam bar link mounts and the position is determined by the factory; by centering the WDH bar pockets on the cams the length of which is adjustable.
Here's mine on the floor and for sale.

That is totally different than our old Reese hitch ???
Ours had an adjustable sway bar,,, with a small ball on each end,,, the ball on the tong of the TT had been installed in the wrong place,,, and it broke the receiver twice,,, I found it was installed wrong when I called Reese !!!

[statticcling]

check out the anderson no sway hitch and you do not have to take anything off to back up ,it wieghs less so its easier to setup ,and its completely quiet

[Rick_Geneseo]

I was taught that if you need to make a u-turn to drop the bars. I've always had the bar/chain set up. I have busted the friction anti sway bar off the trailer once when i made a right u-turn and forgot to take it off also.

[AJAbbott]

Originally Posted by WolfWhistle

There are no brackets, per se, to move. There are cam bar link mounts and the position is determined by the factory; by centering the WDH bar pockets on the cams the length of which is adjustable.
Here's mine on the floor and for sale.

That is exactly what mine looks like. I see one thing different and that is how the chains are bolted on, mine are in from the other side. will try to change them around and see what happens.

I know I should have taken pictures however: it was late when I posted this and I most like will not re-hook again till Saturday the 23 of April will put pics then. In the mean time just wish to thank all who have advised.

[wildbill79]

I use the Reese Dual Cam and can make nearly 90 degree turns without the trunnion bar popping off. The worst that has happened is the bar has popped up on top of the cam arm ridge.They should have made the ridge that keeps the trunnion bar in place larger because of the way the bars become disengaged in a sharp turn. I'm unsure how your bar is actually falling completely off since the bar cannot move left or right because it is sandwiched by the chain mount and cam arm. If you shorten the length of the cam some it should give the trunnion bar more overhang and keep it from dropping down when it becomes disengaged in a sharp turn

[WolfWhistle]

X2 on the Andersen
WW

[myredracer]

DC owner here. First thing is, 4 links is not good. You should aim for 5 links under tension, maybe 6 links. The geometry with 4 links creates more horizontal movement. A properly set up DC WDH should not have the bars popping out in tight turns and it should not be necessary to remove the bars before backing up.

There is a good sticky over on the RV.net forum that goes through the dual cam setup procedure and includes a discussion of Reese's instructions. RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Towing: Travel Trailer Hitch Set-up Procedure

You need to set the number of chain links under tension at 5 and vary the bar angle to get the appropriate amount of weight transferred to the steer axle. You can do this by measuring the front before and after fender height or by going to a scale. Newer truck manuals state a different amount of weight to be transferred compared to older trucks so you should check your manual. You also need to have the coupler at the right height above the ground relative to the ball on the hitch head. Changing this affects the level of tension on the bars. It took me a season of fiddling with our DC WDH to get it optimized and the last thing I ended up having to do is use a ball with a 1" rise to get the TT sitting properly (nose slightly down as opposed to slightly up). When it's all set up right, it's an awesome WDH.

Cams MUST be centered in the spring bar detents for the sway control to work properly. Do NOT move the cams away from the correct position in order to prevent a bar from popping out.

The above is assuming that you have the cams centered properly in the spring bar ends (aka "detents" or "crooks"). I know from experience that if using 800 lb rated bars and Reese's specs for cam bracket mounting location, it is not possible to get the cams properly centered and the cams end up being a little too far rearward.

FWIW, the bars/cams wear differently side to side and it's a good idea to mark the bars and cams arms with colored tape to ensure they are always on the same corresponding sides.

In cases like this, a photo(s) makes all the difference in the comments and advice you can get. OP does not state the TW and it would be very helpful to go to a scale fully loaded (maybe with and without a toy in the back). Significant changes in TW can affect positioning of the cams in the bar detents.

[AquaMan]

When I was leaving the campground in Nashville last year after the rally, I saw a WDH bar on the road at a stop light to make a tight narrow turn heading to the interstate. Had always wondered if it was a rally goer. I would have picked it up, but there was traffic everywhere and it took all I had to make the corner and not hit anyone.

[WolfWhistle]

You can see why, finally I am a ex-DC owner. Still have it and its for sale (shameless plug)
WW

[Dodge Guy]

Originally Posted by WolfWhistle

You can see why, finally I am a ex-DC owner. Still have it and its for sale (shameless plug)
WW

Yes they are finicky, but when dialed in the only thing that beats it is the HA and PP!