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02-12-2018, 10:40 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,523
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We don't usually grease any of the balls we use on the farm. And we have a few that are chewed up, usually due to something foreign trapped in there, like if we forget to wipe the dirt out . Don't usually worry about it too much, but then we don't tow them thousands of miles either.
Be sure and let us know what the 'experts' say and how this is resolved. Good luck!
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Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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02-12-2018, 10:42 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 9,739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildcatter
That doesn't mean he didn't, personally I think you have gotten lucky, I too have pulled trailers with no grease and when I unhitched the chrome on the ball was tore up, that us why I grease everything, just a light a coat will work wonders.
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I have been towing trailers for over 35 years and currently own six and have never had a ball torn up. But I also never use cheap chrome balls either.
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2005 Dodge 3500 Cummins
2017 Wildwood Lodge 4092 BFL
1966 Mustang GT
1986 Mustang SVO
Lillie Spoiled Rotten Boxer Mix
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02-12-2018, 10:47 PM
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 85
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what kind of ball do you recommend
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02-12-2018, 10:48 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oaklevel
I have been towing trailers for over 35 years and currently own six and have never had a ball torn up. But I also never use cheap chrome balls either.
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You do have a good point about the chrome balls. They look good but usually don't perform well. The boys will buy one occasionally to look good, but when harvest season comes I notice they don't have them any longer
__________________
Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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02-12-2018, 11:00 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Apollo, PA
Posts: 588
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It seems there are two camps on this issue. Those who grease and those who don’t.
I’m not convinced that metal on metal without any lube is the way to go. I always lube mine. It will hold dirt, so I clean the ball and hitch periodically and apply a little clean grease.
As far as the OP’s problem, I wouldn’t expect to see that even without lube.
Let us know what the pros say.
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2017 Rockwood 2703WS - Sold
2015 Keystone Sprinter 333FWFLS
2017 F250, 6.2 Gas, 3.73 Axle, 2902 lb Payload
If women don't find you handsome, at least they should find you handy!
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02-12-2018, 11:05 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildcatter
They will do that with no grease on them, get yourself some lithium works grease, a medium to high temp works great, I would replace the ball now and use grease, if you don't replace the ball it will keep grinding away at the hitch coupler. I am surprised the dealer (tech) let you hook up with no grease on the ball. You don't need a lot, Use a plastic bag to cover it when you are out camping to protect your clothes from grease.
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I didnt use any grease and my tt is 9k lbs. Towed 6hrs home and ball looks just like it did when i started.
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02-13-2018, 11:24 AM
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#27
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 54
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Wow, that is really chewed up. I have a couple balls in the garage that I've used to tow my boat over the last ten years that I've never greased and they look nothing like that. I've had some chrome ones flake as previously mentioned but that is downright chewed up. I have the same hitch and same ball for my TT and it looks nothing like that. I would expect some wear on a non greased ball but nothing to that extent. I do grease my TT ball but I doubt lack of grease would cause the damage shown in this situation. Good luck!
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02-13-2018, 11:41 AM
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#28
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 57
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My dealer gave me a tube of grease from Equalizer (i use it because it came with the hitch, no other reason) and told me to grease the ball. I clean the surfaces and put a small amount on the ball before I hitch up.
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02-13-2018, 11:45 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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By the Wear Pattern part A and part B do NOT have the Same Contact Area! My WAG is the A Arm Coupler is the Issue! Proper contact should be a least on 1/2 the Ball! I clean my Balls and Sockets and use Vaseline for Lube! Youroo!!
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02-13-2018, 11:50 AM
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#30
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 369
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I'd agree with the posters that said some sort of foreign object was trapped in the coupler. My guess would be that some sort of small gravel worked into it, either before you picked it up, or on your trip. Then it fell into the active area of the coupler and started grinding on both surfaces. It isn't likely that it was just metal filings, since those shouldn't be as hard as the metal of the ball under the chrome plating.
Hopefully you'll get a good answer today.
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02-13-2018, 12:26 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Oshawa, ON
Posts: 979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oaklevel
I have NEVER greased a ball and never had anything like this happen.......... personally I think it is the wrong ball. It looks like a cheap one even though it is rated at 10,000 lbs. Also are we 100% that it is a 2 5/16" or is it a 2"
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That's what I'm wondering.......is possible that the coupler is 2 5/16" and the ball is actually 2"?
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Dave, Southern,ON
2017 GMC SLT HD All Terrain Crew Cab (6' 6" Box) 2012 Roo 23SS
E2 Trunnion WDH (1,000 lb / 10,000 lb)
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02-13-2018, 12:33 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 292
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My opinion, just rubbing would not cause the ball to wear that way. Grease or no grease. There was almost definitely some foreign object that was gouging the ball and coupler. Weather it be a piece of metal, a rock or what have you.
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02-13-2018, 12:44 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Monticello, IL
Posts: 1,696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Lyon
That's what I'm wondering.......is possible that the coupler is 2 5/16" and the ball is actually 2"?
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This was already discussed, the ball is 2-5/16".
I would recommend getting either a stainless ball or raw steel ball, avoid any that are chrome or nickel plated because it can/will flake and gouge/scratch your coupler like what happened here.
What wasn't mentioned was what the noise sounded like. If the noise sounds like the Titanic as it's sinking (groaning, creaking) then that is a common complaint with the Equal-I-Zer 4-point hitches. Just ask anyone that has heard them rolling through a quiet campground.
If it was a different noise then it may help to know what the noise sounded like.
I honestly think the issue is what I said initially...
- The ball and coupler got chewed up due to using a cheap chrome ball with no grease, this caused the chrome to flake and chew things up. Somewhere I have a ball that looks exactly the same and it was never used for any heavy towing, it's just a crappy ball.
- The noise is unrelated and could very well be the typical Equal-I-Zer noise.
I would clean up the coupler, get a quality stainless or raw steel ball, put a light coating of grease on it, and then have the hitch setup double-checked just to make sure it's not over-adjusted.
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2017 GMC Canyon - CCLB, 4x4, 2.8L Duramax, ARE Z-series shell
2013 Shamrock 21SS
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02-13-2018, 12:50 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 292
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Hitch Issues
Flaked chrome would not cause gouges like that, scratches yes. But nothing like that just from Crome flakes!
I too hate cheap chrome hitch balls though
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02-13-2018, 01:13 PM
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#35
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,074
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We had discussions similar to this a couple of years ago.
I believe Mr. Havercamp was the first to have issues. (I miss him around here)
The culprit was the socket in the trailer coupler was pressed slightly too small during manufacturing. So much so, that several of the trailers were almost impossible to raise off the ball when uncoupling. They chewed up the ball and the coupler the same way so maybe there is still an on-going quality control issue with some of these frames. (did I just say "quality control issues" out loud?)
It was also determined at that time, that EVERY manufacturer of trailer balls sells their own brand of ball lube. Take that for what it's worth.
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2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2017 Ford F-Series SCREW 4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
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02-13-2018, 02:36 PM
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#36
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Calgary Canada
Posts: 44
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I agree with the foreign object theory. I grease but only to get the hitch bal out easier. 40 years and never seen that. Now i am sounding like my dad 🤐
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02-13-2018, 04:23 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 597
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It will be interesting to see what the issue is, hopefully they report back.
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02-13-2018, 06:16 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 292
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When I had my tt I always greased ball and torsion bars, but I just did it to keep things quiet..... on the farm we never grease hitch balls. Maybe we should, but I’ve never noticed any wear on trailers or balls.
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02-13-2018, 10:07 PM
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#39
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 85
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I will post information after I take it to the hitch shop. That will not be until next monday, currently unhooked in The Daytona Infield for the races and Im not hooking it up to move it till I have too. Thank you for all the input, lots to think about and research. This damage was after only 160 miles. I am waiting for a call from dealer to see how they plan on taking care of it, we have only had this thing 4 days.
As for the noise it is making. We left tampa drove I 4, made one stop after about 10 miles (camping world) no noise at this point. Drove to Daytona pulled into gas station still no noise. Filled tank and when we pulled away there was a loud noise like something was dragging concrete really hard, circled gas station with everybody looking at us, some even asked if we were OK
I stopped truck thinking the noise was in the axle. Looked all around saw nothing out of place, had wife move truck while i listened, as soon as she moved the noise came from hitch. No visual issues. Pretty straight shot to exit of station, noise was very loud like I was dragging something digging into concrete, noise stopped as we pulled out. got to traffic light, stopped, light turned green as i started to go noise was very loud all the way through the turn and a bit after we straightened out then it stopped. We entered race track about 2 miles with no noise, made a u turn got a little noise then stopped and unhooked. Just not clear how that much noise could come from ball area.
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02-13-2018, 10:15 PM
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#40
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 54
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Hitch Issues
A lot of that noise comes from the spring bars sliding on the brackets that bolt to the trailer frame when you are turning. One poster described it perfectly earlier when they referenced the titanic groaning and creaking while sinking. The first time I pulled with an equalizer hitch I thought something was wrong too. I’ve found greasing the brackets on the trailer along with making sure the pivot points on the head are greased keeps it fairly quiet. You’ll find many many opinions on here on here when it comes to greasing the bars, it works for me and i don’t notice any reduction in sway control etc. It should be quiet on the straightaway though.
Regardless, your ball and coupler should not look like that. Enjoy the races and good luck with your repairs.
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2012 Chevrolet Surburban
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