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Old 03-06-2013, 06:18 PM   #21
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Man, choosing a WDH and sway control has got to be one of the most confusing things to do, right after finding the TT you want.

We just bought a Draw-Tite Strait-Line dual cam setup (trunnion style) to upgrade from our basic Curt unit. Seems to be a pretty nice design. Lots of folks swear by the dual cam design. I thought about the add-on friction type sway control on each side, but while they do work to some extent, I haven't exactly read rave reviews about them. And they appear to be an issue when backing up and you have to hook them up and take them off each time.

I did all the due diligence in finding the best price on-line. Learned that Draw-Tite and Reese are made by the same parent compay. Ended up buying on ebay for $450. Found prices for the same thing up to over $1K on the internet. And I found that the Draw-Tite Strait-Line was about $100 cheaper than the best Reese price I could find. It sure pays to shop around.

One thing I like about the dual cam arrangement is that they don't rely on friction to the extent other friction only sway control devices do. Less to wear out in the long run and no adjusting or replacing friction pads.

In shopping for a new WDH, I found that you have to read carefully because sometimes the shank isn't included despite what their photos show. Adds another $100+.

It just seemed to me that for something under $500 it's a pretty good setup with little to wear out and nothing to adjust once installed and set up.
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Old 03-06-2013, 07:16 PM   #22
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Please don't take this as aurgumentative. We all have to make our own choice on what works for us. That being said, I read this comment alot. Now my question is this.
What point is something cost effective?

You have what 35K plus invested in a trailer? You have a nice truck 25-30k or more? You have your personal safety as well as the safety of your family member riding in the truck.

If you really believe that a Hensley hitch provides better control of the vehicle, how do you not justify around $2500 for the best hitch system that will outlast the trailer and still have a high resale value.

Now that seems like a small investment that is pretty cost effective to me.

Just my 2 cents worth. Nothing more - nothing less. Since you asked for opinions, something to think about.


On the cost effectiveness issue my Hensley is now on its fourth trailer, has proved to be very cost effective.
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Old 03-06-2013, 07:45 PM   #23
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I have use the Reese dual cam weight distrubution and sway control hitch for 13 years, the frist one was with a 2000 Fleetwood Mallard 29' and the tow vehical was a 1995 GMC 3/4 ton Suburban.....Not one problem.

As time went on we bought a 2006 Forest River Rockwood 8314ss anit was 34' long but we had to go "Heavy Duty", so it was recommend to up grade with the same Reese WDS contol hitch but with 1,200 spring bars and at the time I was now towing with a 1997 GMC Suburban 3/4 ton....Now I am going right to the point, when the hitch was set up by the service department it was done incorrectly, as I took the new camper (ROCKWOOD) out for the first time we where on I-76 headed to Hershey once I reached 51 mile mph the camper and Subauban was swaying out of control I had to take up both lanes to re-gain control once I arrived to the campground both load rated "E" tires went flat.....the unconrolable sway damage both rear tires.

The reason for this is because if the hitch system is not installed correctly you can end up in a bad way, so please be careful.

But on a good note I sold the 1997 Suburban and bought a 2008 Chevy Heavy Duty pick up and used the same Reese WDS hitch as mention above with the same Rockwood camper and again with the correct instullation all worked out with out a hitch.....
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:10 PM   #24
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Many thanks for the continuing remarks by all! Great perspectives from different angles!! At this point I'm leaning toward a hitch with integrated sway control like the Centerline.
I 've got the F150 Screw Ecoboost, long wheelbase, max tow (11,200#), HD payload (2,500#) with built in trailer brake/anti-sway.

This comment from a member via PM "With that set up, I'd just get the Centerline. You'll be fine. You're well within your truck's spec's to pull that trailer. The Centerline will keep the trailer from swaying, and if you have the integrated trailer brake controller, your good to go, as the TBC integrates with the truck's brake system to help mitigate sway as well.

The biggest inducer of sway is a lack of tongue weight, be sure to keep the tongue weight at approx. 13% of the TT's GVW. Also make sure your trailer is a little nose down in profile when hooked/tensioned up to the TV.

Keep your speed down too. That's the best way to PREVENT sway. I never ever exceed 100kms/hr with my rig and I never have any significant sway ,even with big rigs flying by me."
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:49 PM   #25
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Just checked the cost of a center line hitch in Canada. It is listed in the RV cat. for $1000. When it comes to purchasing anything related to RVing in Canada we get the short end of the stick.
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:01 AM   #26
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We are close to the US/Canada border and we buy a lot of various things off the internet and get it shipped to a "mailbox" just across the border. These places take all sizes of things and weights. We have saved a ton of money (thousands) by shipping to a US address in the past few years.

The $450 we just paid for our Strait-Line (ebay.com) that is getting shipped to our mailbox would have been more like $1000 in Canada. The difference is insane sometimes. Here is Amazon Canada's price: http://tinyurl.com/amazon-strait-line in comparison.
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:07 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by rockwood06 View Post
Now I am going right to the point, when the hitch was set up by the service department it was done incorrectly, as I took the new camper (ROCKWOOD) out for the first time we where on I-76 headed to Hershey once I reached 51 mile mph the camper and Subauban was swaying out of control I had to take up both lanes to re-gain control once I arrived to the campground both load rated "E" tires went flat.....the unconrolable sway damage both rear tires.

The reason for this is because if the hitch system is not installed correctly you can end up in a bad way, so please be careful.
Not quite as bad experience with my setup, but mine was also set up incorrectly. The dealer had only put about 60 lbs. of 300 lbs. of lost weight on my front axle......and I thought the combo drove pretty good even at that. Getting that puppy dialed in correctly has improved the handling over the dealer setup.
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:19 AM   #28
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Getting that puppy dialed in correctly has improved the handling over the dealer setup.
This is an important point to make regardless of which hitch he buys. That is, he will want to learn how to adjust the hitch himself either by studying the manual or by observing a tech who is willing to teach (and knows what he's doing).

For example, the tech installs correctly but for an empty trailer that will need to be adjusted for when its fully loaded (e.g., add/subrtact spacers, etc). Its good to know how to do this and have the tools to adjust at home.
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:30 AM   #29
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Not quite as bad experience with my setup, but mine was also set up incorrectly. The dealer had only put about 60 lbs. of 300 lbs. of lost weight on my front axle......and I thought the combo drove pretty good even at that. Getting that puppy dialed in correctly has improved the handling over the dealer setup.
I would have to say that this is the #1 reason people say they still had sway with Reese, Equalizer, etc.. When someone purchases an RV they usually rely on the dealer to install their WD systems. The techs are under a time crunch to get the system installed and fix any last minute issues with the RV. Some do a really good job, some don't. The customer then goes home and loads all their stuff and in most cases completely changes the trailer and tongue weight (trailer balance). Then on their first trip they're like , why is this thing swaying so bad.

I would recommend to anyone, get to know your hitch and make adjustments to the system after you get your stuff loaded, it helps immensely. If you don't have the time or know how, you can spend a significant amount of money and get one of the high end systems. I prefer to keep my money in my wallet.

EDIT: Triguy beat me
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Old 03-08-2013, 02:03 AM   #30
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Since you are in Langley, I used the weigh station on hwy 15 just north of the border to fine tune my hitch once I got it all set up. it has a nice gravel lot on the entrance side that you can pull off out of the way of traffic, and it is reasonably level for doing hitch adjustments.
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