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Old 03-31-2012, 11:45 AM   #11
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The Pullrite hitch, due to its design, has a limit on the approach and departure angle when hitching and unhitching. 16 degrees from either side of center.

I found that my hitching issues were much less when the camper is approximately level with the truck and the height of the pin box slip plate is such that there is about 1/4 inch of "air" between them when the hitch plate is held level with the handle.


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Old 03-31-2012, 12:16 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Earth Station View Post
We are new to hauling a FW. This came up yesterday when we got it home. DH put the FW right where I wanted it. But the truck was then not squared on the FW. And we thought but weren't sure if the truck had to be squared on the FW when unhitching........... is that the right word??? Anyway........... raised up the stabilizers and maneuvered the TV & FW til they were straight then unhitched...... just for future reference.......... does it have to be straight??? To either hitch or unhitch??? Thanks in advance!!!!
ES - not sure what brand of hitch you have, but the Husky manual gives a lot of instructions when coupling/uncoupling such as the preferred distance between the hitch plate and the bottom of the trailer 5W king pin before coupling. If you have an owners manual -read it and if you don't, get one and then read it.
As far as the maximun angle you can be at when coupling - I offer this advice - if the king pin is between the opening (wedge shaped) of the hitch plate when you contact the king pin when coupling the king pin should slide into the hitch plate receptable. If it is not then you need to make sure it is. As for uncoupling - if you are at a reasonable angle the king pin should slide out. Once again - read your owners manual as there are probably some instructions and tips for you to make this operation it

Just remember to raise your rear stabilizer jacks before coupling up.And the posters here offer some good advice also.

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Old 03-31-2012, 01:10 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by wneise View Post
I would think about the frame. Typically its beefed up front to back, but not so much side to side so those hard jolts coming from the side may cause damage over time.
just be smart, you dont have to crash into the pin to hook up.
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Old 03-31-2012, 02:44 PM   #14
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Not experienced with FW's but with TT's it doesn't really matter... just do the best you can. For those with WDH's, being at a high angle (<90) can make the hitch bars a little harder to remove.

Just don't do what I once did backing my bass boat into the garage. B/c of the length, I have to back it in at almost a 45 angle which means the boat is going one way and the SUV going the other way... I had the tailgate up (to see better) and while I was watching the boat the tailgate bumped the side of the garage opening... not sure how much it will cost me as I haven't fixed the dent yet.... I've done this a hundred times with no problem but this time didn't the DW wasn't there to say stop..ha!

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