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Old 06-24-2018, 10:30 PM   #41
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Measurement form
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Old 06-24-2018, 10:40 PM   #42
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Husky ts wd hitch question

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Originally Posted by mod381 View Post
This is my measurement form from husky and where I currently have it set but I think the bars are way to hard to get on the brackets. If I lower the frame brackets 1 hole then my truck goes down about 1.5 inches in the rear and that is more then the tech at husky wanted.


That seems like a lot of squat for that truck but I could be wrong. Usually 1 1/2 to 2 1/2” is normal without a WDH attached. I tow with a Chevy Traverse with a 183. Tongue weight depending on how I load is about 480-520#. I use a blue ox and I have brought my measurements around 1/4” of factory height. I know it’s not apples to apples with everything but you get the idea. I think a redo of everything is definitely a must do in your case. You have IMO, to many maybe it’s this or maybe it’s that questions. So many things it could be and the safety of you and family and people around you are worth the 2 hours to redo it. I know it’s a pain in the butt though but unless you have a definitive answer to your problem you will just be going back and forth I think. If you need tools most parts stores rent them out for free and most will have what you need.

Tim
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Old 06-24-2018, 10:48 PM   #43
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Per Ford (at least my 2017 manual), you measure from ground to a point on the front fender when disconnected (A). Then connect the trailer but NOT the WD bars. Do the measurement again (B). It should be a higher number. Then connect the WD bars. The mark on the fender should fall to half the distance between A and B. For mine, A=42", B=42 1/2" and my distance once the WD bars are set correctly is 42 1/4" (half way between A and B). Adjust the "L" brackets as necessary to get the 50% value.

Is the receiver on the truck a factory install?
Park the truck on level ground as determined by using your level placed on the side of the frame. Now, check the level of the receiver where the shank goes in. It should be level. Yours look a good 10º tilt.
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Old 06-24-2018, 10:48 PM   #44
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I don't have the numbers but Ford had a recommended amount to get the front back to so I used that number and I know the back squatted some. Your numbers don't seem to bad, on mine Ford didn't have the front going all the way to the start measurement.
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Old 06-24-2018, 11:00 PM   #45
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Husky ts wd hitch question

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Originally Posted by mopwr4me2003 View Post
Park flat and level. Measure before loading both front and back fenders or pick a spot on the front and rear wheel wells. I use painters tape with a line drawn on it at a height I mark with a level to make a straight line. Write that down for both front and rear. No need to do all 4 corners. Then hook up like you are heading out and measure again with the same lines on the tape. Write that down and see the difference in height. If you are let’s say squatting 2” after hook up with WDH set you should go back and adjust stuff on the hitch. You want to get as close as possible to factory or unloaded height as you can.


Rear measurement is not part of the equation.

Front unhitched.
Front hitched without WD bars.
Front hitched with WD bars.

How much height to return to the front depends on the vehicle manufacturer. Some say return 50% of the height back to the front, meaning if the unhitched height were 30” and the hitched without WD bars height was 33” then adjust the WD hitch so that the height with the bars is 31.5”.

Other manufacturers say to return the front height to unloaded height by adjusting the WD bars.

Rear squat/height isn’t measured/doesn’t matter and trucks are supposed to squat under load. That’s expected. Returning the rear to the unloaded height would mean the bars were over-adjusted and there’s too much weight removed from the rear and sent to the front and trailer. This is a recipe for disaster.
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Old 06-24-2018, 11:10 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by DieselDrax View Post
Rear measurement is not part of the equation.

Rear squat/height isn’t measured/doesn’t matter.

We will have to agree to disagree. Not trying to start a back and forth thing either. I can understand your thinking on this. But The OP has a picture of the measurements required or at least saying you should have them and the front and rear are listed on there. If you watch videos of people including E trailer and the manufacturer videos they include this as a measurement to have in your set up. Is it probably a added step that may not be needed maybe but I use it and I know just about everyone else uses the rear measurement as well.
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Old 06-24-2018, 11:14 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDrax View Post
Rear measurement is not part of the equation.

Front unhitched.
Front hitched without WD bars.
Front hitched with WD bars.

How much height to return to the front depends on the vehicle manufacturer. Some say return 50% of the height back to the front, meaning if the unhitched height were 30” and the hitched without WD bars height was 33” then adjust the WD hitch so that the height with the bars is 31.5”.

Other manufacturers say to return the front height to unloaded height by adjusting the WD bars.

Rear squat/height isn’t measured/doesn’t matter and trucks are supposed to squat under load. That’s expected. Returning the rear to the unloaded height would mean the bars were over-adjusted and there’s too much weight removed from the rear and sent to the front and trailer. This is a recipe for disaster.
I just looked at my owners manual and it states to refer to the hitch instructions. This is the email from the tech at husky. It states they do not want the front to go up at all. I looked at the instructions for the equalizer hitch and there instructions say to bring the front to 50% height. To get my truck to the measurements needed per the attatched email my spring bars need to be where I currently have them.
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Old 06-24-2018, 11:28 PM   #48
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From my 2107 F250 manual.
When hooking-up a trailer using a
weight-distributing hitch, always use the
following procedure:
1. Park the loaded vehicle, without the
trailer, on a level surface.
2. Measure the height to the top of your
vehicle's front wheel opening on the
fender. This is H1.
3. Attach the loaded trailer to your vehicle
without the weight-distributing bars
connected.
4. Measure the height to the top of your
vehicle's front wheel opening on the
fender a second time. This is H2.
5. Install and adjust the tension in the
weight-distributing bars so that the
height of your vehicle's front wheel
opening on the fender is approximately
halfway between H1 and H2.
6. Check that the trailer is level or slightly
nose down toward your vehicle. If not,
adjust the ball height accordingly and
repeat Steps 2-6.

FYI: I would use the Vehicle manufacturers requirement over the WD manufacturer.
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Old 06-24-2018, 11:31 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mod381 View Post
I just looked at my owners manual and it states to refer to the hitch instructions. This is the email from the tech at husky. It states they do not want the front to go up at all. I looked at the instructions for the equalizer hitch and there instructions say to bring the front to 50% height. To get my truck to the measurements needed per the attatched email my spring bars need to be where I currently have them.
You need to re-read your manual, it does tell you how Ram wants the WDH adjusted and it is not how Husky states. See attached.
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Old 06-24-2018, 11:35 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mopwr4me2003 View Post
We will have to agree to disagree. Not trying to start a back and forth thing either. I can understand your thinking on this. But The OP has a picture of the measurements required or at least saying you should have them and the front and rear are listed on there. If you watch videos of people including E trailer and the manufacturer videos they include this as a measurement to have in your set up. Is it probably a added step that may not be needed maybe but I use it and I know just about everyone else uses the rear measurement as well.
None of the manufacturers I've seen include rear. Not Ford, not GM, and not Ram. I posted the Ram instructions above, doesn't include rear measurement. Some 3rd-party sheet/chart that someone created doesn't make it official. Follow what the vehicle manufacturer says, if it says to measure the rear then measure the rear. I haven't seen any say to do that, though. So yes, agree to disagree based on what vehicle manufacturers have said to do.
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Old 06-24-2018, 11:47 PM   #51
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Thanks for all the info so far. I am not trying to create any arguments I just want to get this set-up properly. My owners manual states to follow the mfg for the hitch set-up. If I follow the copy that was posted above along with the ford recomendations that were posted then I have my spring bars set too tight currently.
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Old 06-24-2018, 11:53 PM   #52
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It use to be that manufacturers wanted the front of the TV to have equal compression of the front and rear or, the front to be slightly lower. SAE did studies on this and found that oversteer can occur under those situations. Certain vehicle manufacturers have moved to the 50% front end up that I mention. Many WD hitch manufacturers are still doing things the old way. Believe me, I find it *****y that something so critical is not agreed on. But then, the way we use to do CPR is now wrong. Who's gonna tell those that were saved by the old method?


Ref. SAE J2807
https://www.automotive-fleet.com/fc_.../pdf/j2807.pdf
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Old 06-25-2018, 12:05 AM   #53
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OP: Your pasted manual doesn't give measurements but gives pictures. I am not trying to be an ass, trust me, but the picture labeled "correct" couldn't show an approximated 1/2" front end up clearly.


This is tuff. Do you follow your TV manual pictorially or, do you go with their statement to use the WD manual? I'll throw in SAE J2807 which is being accepted by at least Toyota and Ford and was produced after your model year. Things do change. Ref my CPR comment on previous post. More things are learned, etc. Does anyone have a 2017 or 2018 Ram manual? What does it say?


I think the TV manufacturer knows more about the TV, the suspension, the springs, etc than the WD hitch manufacturers.

From 2018 Ram manual:
5. Attach the trailer to the vehicle without the weight
distribution bars connected.
6. Measure the height of the top of the front wheel
opening on the fender to ground, this is height H2.
7. Install and adjust the tension in the weight distributing
bars so that the height of the front fender is
approximately (H2-H1)/3+H1 (about 1/3 the difference
between H2 and H1 above normal ride height
[H1]).

So, Ram uses 33% vs Fords 50%. But still, it's a bit higher in the front as opposed to equal or lower. Essentially you're talking +/- 1/8th inch.
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Old 06-25-2018, 12:24 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flhtci2006 View Post
OP: Your pasted manual doesn't give measurements but gives pictures. I am not trying to be an ass, trust me, but the picture labeled "correct" couldn't show an approximated 1/2" front end up clearly.


This is tuff. Do you follow your TV manual pictorially or, do you go with their statement to use the WD manual? I'll throw in SAE J2807 which is being accepted by at least Toyota and Ford and was produced after your model year. Things do change. Ref my CPR comment on previous post. More things are learned, etc. Does anyone have a 2017 or 2018 Ram manual? What does it say?


I think the TV manufacturer knows more about the TV, the suspension, the springs, etc than the WD hitch manufacturers.
No problem and I understand what you are saying. I followed the text and it states to use the mfg instructions. I will look for a newer manual just to see what it says. I think a newer one has been posted in this thread already and it stated to use the 50% method. I could be wrong but I am starting to think that I have gotten some wrong info from husky. If so that is unfortunate since they make the hitch they should know how to set it up properly. In the forms they had me fill out with my measurements it has all of my vehicle info on it.
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Old 06-25-2018, 12:29 AM   #55
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You responded before I finished my edit. 2018 Ram manual is 33% vs Fords 50% which is only about 1/8" maybe.
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Old 07-24-2018, 02:28 PM   #56
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Installed my Husky Centerline TS before the Mayberry Rally and hit the CAT Scale on the way there...I think the numbers are good and it towed perfectly my concern is I noticed when I unhitched I noticed more wear on the back of the L brackets with very little wear evenly distributed on them is this something I should be concerned about ? Or should I try and adjust ?



I'm using four washer's for the tilt and I think 4 holes down on the bracket....


I posted this info in another post and was told the #'s looked good.


Base Truck Unloaded - With just me in the cab full tank of fuel:

UVW – 8,040 lbs
Front Axle - 4,860 lbs
Rear Axle - 3,180 lbs



Loaded Truck Only - Ready for camping trip my DW, Me and two dogs, Full tank of fuel, plus load in back of the truck it’s probably alittle more then I typical carry in bed of truck:

UVW - 8,980 lbs
Front Axle - 5,080 lbs
Rear Axle - 3,900 lbs



Loaded Truck With TT Attached and Husky WDH Engaged.

Front Axle - 5,060 lbs
Rear Axle - 4,760 lbs

Trailer Axle – 6,760 lbs

Trailer Weight – 7,560 lbs - Won't ever be heavier then this it's bloated now.
Trailer GVWR - 7,708 lbs
Hitch Weight - 840 lbs
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Old 07-24-2018, 02:45 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ejs4029 View Post
Installed my Husky Centerline TS before the Mayberry Rally and hit the CAT Scale on the way there...I think the numbers are good and it towed perfectly my concern is I noticed when I unhitched I noticed more wear on the back of the L brackets with very little wear evenly distributed on them is this something I should be concerned about ? Or should I try and adjust ? .......
Sounds like your L brackets might be a hole to low maybe? Try moving it up one hole. The wear should be even across the flat of the bracket. I have the same hitch and mine was just the opposite.... the wear was showing in the front.... I'm going to see if moving it down a hole will fix that. Mine also towed perfectly. Over 500 miles in two days.
I have three washers BTW.
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Old 07-24-2018, 02:50 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kk5fe View Post
Sounds like your L brackets might be a hole to high maybe? Try moving it down one hole. The wear should be even across the flat of the bracket. I have the same hitch and mine was just the opposite.... the wear was showing in the front.... I'm going to see if moving it up a hole will fix that. Mine also towed perfectly. Over 500 miles in two days.
I have three washers BTW.
I had them on the higher hole but there was so much tension on the bars and very difficult to get the bars on and that would have even put more weight on the front axle then I needed...My initial though was to remove a washer from the hitch head.....In doing that I'm going to lose some weight distributed to the front axle.
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Old 07-24-2018, 02:58 PM   #59
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My concern is the brackets are sitting kind of low now......My initial though was to remove a washer from the hitch head.....In doing that I'm going to lose some weight distributed to the front axle right ?
Actually I just edited my post. Had yours and mine reversed. I believe yours needs to come up a hole. It may readjust some of the weight but not by much.
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Old 07-24-2018, 10:55 PM   #60
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If I remember correctly taking one washer out is equal to raising your brackets one hole so if you do both your weight distribution should stay the same but your bars will be flat in the brackets.
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