I Think My Brake Controller Wants Me Dead

wantahertzdonut · 11-16-2013, 07:40 PM

Well, maybe not dead, but it sure likes to frustrate me.

I've been driving my mess around the country full time since July. I have an 01 All American Sport behind a 97 F350 dually. In general it's fine, except when it comes time to stop quickly.

I bought my truck used and it has a tekonsha P3 brake controller. However its operation seems to be completely backwards from what it should do. The most brake power I can get out of it with the brakes applied is around 4. This also only occurs when I'm at or near a stop. When I'm moving, I can't get any more than 1. This requires me to have to reach down and pull the lever should I need to come to a quick stop. My truck is a stick so I certainly can stand to have my hands freed up from this (extra) exercise.

What's really tearing my hair out is the brake controller's tendency to apply the trailer brakes when I'm climbing a steep hill. As if I'm not slow enough already, I have this to worry about. Having the boost feature turned on only seemed to amplify this problem, so I've generally left it off. The brake stay on even if I tilt the controller in its mount.

This is my first experience with a brake controller, but it just doesn't seem to do what I need it to do. Am I wrong in that assumption, or is there a possibility of something being wired backwards, or do I need to pitch this controller and replace it with a new unit?

Tiggerdad · 11-16-2013, 07:45 PM

I suggest you call Tenkosa and discuss with them Could be a number of problems but continuing as you are can be dangerous.

jevanb · 11-16-2013, 08:06 PM

I had a P2 and got rid of it, I do not like porportional controllers. I feel the timed base stop better at least in my rig they pull the truck back better. if the p3 display is like the p2 it reads VDC at the brakes and a 4 would be only a third of the power available

wantahertzdonut · 11-16-2013, 08:10 PM

It's similar to your P2 display. If I pull the lever I can get 12.9 but I would think I should get that much if I stood on the brakes too.

jevanb · 11-16-2013, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wantahertzdonut

It's similar to your P2 display. If I pull the lever I can get 12.9 but I would think I should get that much if I stood on the brakes too.

when I used my P2 I had to keep it turned up all the way and boost 3 , never did I see max display readout (13) even on a panic stop . I talked to Tenkosa at length and they were real helpful. but in the end the reese activator timed base worked best. I now stop with authority and can feel the truck get pulled down really nice, it also helped that I adjusted the pads myself

rbneron · 11-16-2013, 09:08 PM

Did you adjust the sensitivity as instructed in your manual? This is using the thumb wheel adjustment.

rbneron · 11-16-2013, 09:13 PM

If it's braking when you're going up a hill, and you're not applying brakes, it is wired wrong or defective. No voltage should be applied unless you're also applying the towing vehicle's brakes. I'd check the wiring first.

**bikendan** · 11-17-2013, 12:30 AM

the very vast majority of Prodigy owners are extremely happy with theirs and the Prodigy is the most highly recommended brake controller out there.
i also suggest checking the wiring and calling Tekonsha's tech support.

ChooChooMan74 · 11-17-2013, 01:06 AM

I had a Tekonsha voyager in my 91 Ford, and put the same old school controller in my Jeep. Never had issues with either. I would switch yours out and see if the controller has gone bad. As others have said, most people are happy with theirs.

**wmtire** · 11-17-2013, 04:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wantahertzdonut

I bought my truck used and it has a tekonsha P3 brake controller. However its operation seems to be completely backwards from what it should do.

Howdy and welcome to the forums. On the lower left hand side of your brake controller display, is there an E or a H displayed?

The part about climbing steep hills, and the controller applying brakes sounds like something wrong with the inertia sensor. The controller needs to be mounted fairly level side to side. How do you have the controller currently mounted in your truck?

wantahertzdonut · 11-18-2013, 04:55 PM

I have electric brakes selected.

About setting the controller up, as with most things bought used, the previous owner was kind enough to lose the owner's manual. I did go online where they tell you to set the sensitivity to where the trailer wheels *just* about lock up during a hard stop. I set the power to maximum and can't get it to come close, I just got my truck's brakes hot.

I have new pads and mechanisms in my trailer and can't really get them to lock up anyway, so I just went with maximum brake power. Pulling the boost lever, I can get some pretty serious braking going with the trailer; enough to stop the whole mess with the trailer alone quite readily.

I do not have the boost setting selected. It only made the brakes more likely to activate while climbing.

Going to Tekonsha's website, I see this phone number:
Cequent Performance Products
(800)632-3290

Is this the tech help number?

schrederman · 11-18-2013, 05:57 PM

I just used my new P3 for the first time last weekend. I couldn't be happier with it. My old timed unit was a PITA. I would have to constantly feather it and get off the brakes completely to keep it from locking the trailer brakes on a long stop. I adjusted it by the book many times to no avail. Truck and trailer weigh about the same. Adjusted the P3 once and set boost to 2... haven't touched it since... I'd be willing to bet you have awiring issue, or possibly a bad ground... or even a mounting issue as described earlier. Things do wear out, the unit could be bad...

Best of luck, and be safe...

wantahertzdonut · 11-18-2013, 06:38 PM

About wiring, my truck is a 1997 (last year of the square body Super Duty) and when I went to look up prices of new P3's, I noticed they all have pigtails for specific vehicles, and all current models. Does anyone have a wiring diagram of how they are supposed to be wired up if you install it in a vehicle other than what they're pre-wired for? I wonder if whoever bought and installed mine just hacked it in since there are crimp connectors going to places unknown.

I'd like to check this out before spending $150 on a replacement unit only to discover it's a wiring problem, and be out $150 and stuck with a second brake controller I have no use for.

BigBaron · 11-19-2013, 12:57 AM

PM me if you can't get a manual for your P3. I'll scan mine and send it to you. It's a great controller. It sounds like something isn't wired correctly.

Triguy · 11-19-2013, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wantahertzdonut

About setting the controller up, as with most things bought used, the previous owner was kind enough to lose the owner's manual.

Here's the manual. From the forum library...

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...p?do=file&id=9

wrvond · 11-19-2013, 07:26 AM

CAUTION: Inadequate grounding may cause intermittent braking or lack of sufficient voltage to trailer brakes. The WHITE wire must be connected to a suitable ground location. The negative terminal of the battery is a suitable ground location in the absence of a Trailer Tow Package connection.

wrvond · 11-19-2013, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wantahertzdonut

I have electric brakes selected.

About setting the controller up, as with most things bought used, the previous owner was kind enough to lose the owner's manual. I did go online where they tell you to set the sensitivity to where the trailer wheels *just* about lock up during a hard stop. I set the power to maximum and can't get it to come close, I just got my truck's brakes hot.

I have new pads and mechanisms in my trailer and can't really get them to lock up anyway, so I just went with maximum brake power. Pulling the boost lever, I can get some pretty serious braking going with the trailer; enough to stop the whole mess with the trailer alone quite readily.

I do not have the boost setting selected. It only made the brakes more likely to activate while climbing.

Going to Tekonsha's website, I see this phone number:
Cequent Performance Products
(800)632-3290

Is this the tech help number?

Technical Assistance: 1-888-785-5832

jevanb · 11-19-2013, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wantahertzdonut

I have electric brakes selected.

About setting the controller up, as with most things bought used, the previous owner was kind enough to lose the owner's manual. I did go online where they tell you to set the sensitivity to where the trailer wheels *just* about lock up during a hard stop. I set the power to maximum and can't get it to come close, I just got my truck's brakes hot.

I have new pads and mechanisms in my trailer and can't really get them to lock up anyway, so I just went with maximum brake power. Pulling the boost lever, I can get some pretty serious braking going with the trailer; enough to stop the whole mess with the trailer alone quite readily.

I do not have the boost setting selected. It only made the brakes more likely to activate while climbing.

Going to Tekonsha's website, I see this phone number:
Cequent Performance Products
(800)632-3290

Is this the tech help number?

since you have a toy hauler which I assume is pretty heavy you will not get wheel lockup at any speed except from a standstill. I put larger magnets, 8 gage wire, terminal strips with real connectors, and adjusted the pads to pretty good drag, I have night and day stopping power. no thanks to FR or dealer for fixing this problem I have had since it came of the assy line.. before the trailer pushed me everywhere now I can almost lock up at 10mph. I weight in at 12.5 loaded to camp and it takes lots of power to stop. as for the controller applying brakes up hill i would say it is bad, I can send you my old P2 and you can try it..but it is wired for a OBS chevy

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