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Old 04-22-2016, 02:18 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Oaklevel View Post
Internet is good but we managed just fine without it!
Much better life before all the electronic junk and internet. Couldn't be any better than the 40's, 50's, 60's and 70's.

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Old 04-22-2016, 02:56 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by mike.t View Post
Regarding a integrated controller. If it has a tow package it should a least have a plug and play connector for one. Or like OP said they just didn't do the install correctly.
GM eliminated the plug n play feature, with the GM900 platform in 2007 model year line.
My Avalanche just had the controller wire bundle with bare ends, to splice the Prodigy's OEM wires to.

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Old 04-22-2016, 06:04 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by TonyD View Post
Welcome to reality! It doesn't matter whether it is an RV tech, a diesel mechanic, or an independent shop, a carpenter, a painter, a tile installer, a landscaper, one thing I have learned is that if you want to do it right, do it yourself! Most folks just don't have enough knowledge to recognize a job was done half-donkey!
Firsts off trust not given, it has to be earned. Second not all trades doing a shabby work! You cannot be a master of all! Every business operates on a different standard. It all depends on a manager or the owner. Just my two cents.
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Old 04-22-2016, 06:12 PM   #24
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Whats a PDI ? I asked my dealer when I picked up my trailer about the pre delivery inspection and the tech say there is nothing to show u . Your all set to go. I thought WTF .
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Old 04-22-2016, 06:41 PM   #25
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So here's what I found when I checked out the hitch head & shank setup when I got home tonight. The angle set bolt was loose enough to remove by hand...I couldn't actually remove it, but it wasn't touching the shank. The washers had about 1/16" play in them too. Does this seem right?
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Old 04-23-2016, 12:31 PM   #26
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Made a little more progress today on the WD hitch. I took it apart and added another washer to start at the six washers recommended as stated in the manual. I had to go out and pick up a torque wrench capable of 250 ft-lbs. When I reassembled the head/shank I found that 250 ft-lbs of torque is enough to flatten those conical washers as well as make you think you're twisting the bolt in half. Those washers weren't even close to flat when I took it apart and the head actually jiggled around on the shank...turns out that this is not normal! The angle set bolt needs to be tightened twice; once unhitched and again when it's hitched, as the weight of the trailer actually moves the head enough to where the angle set bolt comes out of contact with the it has to be tightened again. I also made some "unofficial" measurements (due to the uneven ground it's currently sitting on). If the measurements hold up once I get it on even ground, then this means the dealer set my hitch head 1" lower than the trailer tongue. I really hope this isn't the case because I will lose all faith in my dealership at this point.

Anyway, I learned a lot in this process so far and now I have a better understanding of the WD hitch...and I got some new tools out of it.
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Old 04-23-2016, 01:20 PM   #27
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My Husky Centerline TS was exactly the same way. Not enough washers, too low, nothing anywhere close to spec on torque.

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Old 04-25-2016, 05:02 PM   #28
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Welcome from Kentucky!
Sorry about your troubles. However, now you know WAY more than your dealer even cares to know.
You might find some BS here on the forum too, but it will mostly be on a jovial note. Most of all you will find helpful campers who really care that you get the correct info and are safe going down the road.
Travel safe

2001 Ford F-350 Super Duty CC Dually, 7.3 Diesel
2013 832IKBS Flagstaff Classic Ultra Lite, Hensley Arrow Hitch, Carlisle tires
2016 days camped....211, it ain't over yet!
On the road to ALASKA May 6, home Sept. 13, 2016. 23 states, 3 Canadian Provinces, up to the Arctic Circle, 17,300 miles, 131 days on the road. 1 flat tire, 4 oil changes. What a beautiful trip!
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