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Old 11-07-2013, 10:33 AM   #11
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Adding the wheels is going to decrease your clearance by several inches, depending on the size/capacity of the wheels you install, causing you to contact the road surface even more often.
While there doesn't appear to be any "good" answer to this problem, I'm wondering why nobody ever installed a skid plate similar to what off-road bikes, ATVs, trucks, etc. have. A sheet of aluminum, screwed into the frame can't add all that much weight.
Depends where you put the wheels, was told years ago to stretch a string from the ground/rear tire intersection to the low point at the rear and position the wheel/skid bar about 1/2"-1" lower than the string. That way, you don't loose much clearance and have some protection.
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:44 AM   #12
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That's a great tip!
My driveway is a big circle (or sorta rectangle). One end is a nice, easy slope up to the house. The other is rather steep. I prefer to pull the camper up the steep end and down the gentle end, rather than let it push me down the steep end and potentially end up in the creek at the end of it.
Anyway, my scissor jack stabilizers are the lowest points back there, and occasionally make light contact with the tarmac when making the turn to come up the drive. I'm going to have to get out some string and see how much lower the stabs are than the string.
Thanks, OC!
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:47 AM   #13
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I have Dexter torsion axles on my trailer and Dexter has lift kits for their axles. You might check with the manufacturer of your axles if they are not Dexter.
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:57 AM   #14
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I had a very similar problem with my '13 Windjammer. When loaded (no where near the capacity) I couldn't fit a finger between the top of any of the tires and the wheel well. One tire has come into contact with the wheel well and wore a small hole in the plastic.

I unloaded it prior to winterizing it and hauling it to the dealer for a laundry list of repairs under warranty. My axle concern was part of that list. Even unloaded, the service writer said there should be more clearance.

The fix (according to the dealer) is a "riser kit." I have yet to see it, but I'm told that repair is complete. A month later, it's still there for the other issues. Now I'm at risk of losing my FREE indoor storage space.

Not currently real happy.
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:04 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by wrvond View Post
That's a great tip!
My driveway is a big circle (or sorta rectangle). One end is a nice, easy slope up to the house. The other is rather steep. I prefer to pull the camper up the steep end and down the gentle end, rather than let it push me down the steep end and potentially end up in the creek at the end of it.
Anyway, my scissor jack stabilizers are the lowest points back there, and occasionally make light contact with the tarmac when making the turn to come up the drive. I'm going to have to get out some string and see how much lower the stabs are than the string.
Thanks, OC!
It sure helped me on my first single axle trailer. I also added 3/4" thk x 4" wide skid plates on the axle in case I had a blowout. Never did have a blowout as that trailer had 8 ply truck tires on it when we bought it in late 1975.
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:07 AM   #16
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...Now I'm at risk of losing my FREE indoor storage space...
Can you park your tow vehicle or something else in it in the mean time to save it?
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:32 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by wrvond View Post
That's a great tip!
My driveway is a big circle (or sorta rectangle). One end is a nice, easy slope up to the house. The other is rather steep. I prefer to pull the camper up the steep end and down the gentle end, rather than let it push me down the steep end and potentially end up in the creek at the end of it.
Anyway, my scissor jack stabilizers are the lowest points back there, and occasionally make light contact with the tarmac when making the turn to come up the drive. I'm going to have to get out some string and see how much lower the stabs are than the string.
Thanks, OC!
Camping world sell a set of brackets that you can bolt to the frame to use as a quick disconnect for your jacks if you worry about them dragging.

Saveajack - 2pk - Curry Enterprises SAJ-U - Stabilizing Jacks - Camping World
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:36 AM   #18
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Camping world sell a set of brackets that you can bolt to the frame to use as a quick disconnect for your jacks if you worry about them dragging.

Saveajack - 2pk - Curry Enterprises SAJ-U - Stabilizing Jacks - Camping World
Those are great, but it also means you have to stow the jacks somewhere which defeats the purpose of attaching them. However, it would beat tearing the jacks up. Might be handier if you just took them off when you knew you were going to encounter a problem.
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:39 AM   #19
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Camping world sell a set of brackets that you can bolt to the frame to use as a quick disconnect for your jacks if you worry about them dragging.

Saveajack - 2pk - Curry Enterprises SAJ-U - Stabilizing Jacks - Camping World
I think I'll let my sister know about these. Thanks, Les.
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:49 AM   #20
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Those are great, but it also means you have to stow the jacks somewhere which defeats the purpose of attaching them. However, it would beat tearing the jacks up. Might be handier if you just took them off when you knew you were going to encounter a problem.

I had to put them on. I have really good clearance under the TT, but my side skirting comes down way far and I can not get a wrench, drill, ect on it. I have to exstend the jack down a foot to clear the skirting and then I can get a good wrench on it.

I have about 3 inches of clearance at the wheel wells from tire to well. Which I like.

I wanted another spare tire holder and have the room under the belly that I bought one of these. I ordered it from camping world. I am debating on putting it in front or behind the axles.

BAL - Innovative Products for the RV Industry
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