Integrated Brake Controller - Chevrolet

[cfisher523]

I am new here (first post), but I have searched and not found an answer. Looking for any suggestions or solutions that might be out there. I recently upgraded from my 36' Jayco Eagle TT to a 2013 Sierra 365SAQ. I ran my ITBC at about 5.5 with the Jayco and it was just shy of locking up under a panic braking situation and it felt solid everywhere else.

I bring the Sierra home and I end up with the ITBC at 10 and it feels very weak. No throttle applied with the paddles closed it will hold the truck, but if I apply sme throttle the truck will pull the camper without much effort even with the paddles closed and the setting at 10.

Up to this point I have really loved the ITBC and I hate to bypass or disable it and install something aftermarket. Any ideas? I did add a 7pin in the bed, but I have tried connecting at the bumper as well thinking the new socket was the problem and I still get the same results. I'm looking forward to any input or suggestions that might be out there. I've already solved several of my other issues (A/C ducting etc.) here and I'm hoping for one more win. Thanks!

[Dave_Monica]

Have you pulled the break-away switch to see if the camper's brakes will lock? If the truck will still pull the camper with the break-away switch pulled I'd check the camper's brakes...they may be mis-adjusted.

[18CrewDually]

X2 on the adjustment. I would jack up each wheel and adjust them all before I went any further. While it's jacked up also check for any looseness in the bearing preload adjustment. After adjustment, pull the emergency break away pin and the wheel should lock up within n eighth of a turn or so. If your still having issues post back and we can go from there.

[Twisty]

I've been told that there is a break in procedure, but, alas, I can't find it...
I suggest that you tow it some more.
When it is safe to do so, apply the brakes manually.
I applied them lightly while throttling up the truck to get them worn in and hot.
The magnets and shoes need to get worn to the drums.
My TT brakes are far more effective with 2000 miles on them than they were new.
I have reduced the amount of braking with my built in controller. I had it as high as 7.5 and now it is set at 5 to 5.5.

This applies to disc brakes -

"A series of controlled moderate speed stops (15-20 Stops from 30-mph w/30 sec cool down) is required to properly "burnish" or break-in a new set of pads. During this initial stopping period, the process of lining transfer from the disc pads to the rotor surface helps condition the rotor surface to properly seat the brake pads. All pads are cured and all pads need to be burnished."

I also found a statement about reaching 300 degrees.

The same applies to us.

[cfisher523]

Twisty - I've got over 2500 miles on the trailer, but I guess they could still be settling.

Dave / 87Crew - I'll take a look at the adjustments. Figured I was missing something basic. I was thinking some type of electrical problem, hadn't occured to me that the MFG didn't adjust the brakes correctly. Thanks and I'll be back if it doesn't get better.

[cfisher523]

Well poor adjustment was the culprit.... I would have thought the brakes were adjusted at the factory and I was wrong. After getting the wheels off the ground not only were they all in poor adjustment, but they weren't even consistent.

I set them all so there was some drag as I had none. When I first jacked it up three of four wheels you couldn't even hear drag and the wheel would make 20+ rotations before stopping on its own. I have them all set to where they are making ~3-4 rotations before stopping on their own. I took the rig out for a test drive and what do you know, I'm down to 7.5-8 on the ITBC .... much better than 10.

Before the adjustments I pulled break-away and at idle it held, but with 1/8 throttle or less it rolled almost freely in a stone driveway. After adjustment when I pulled the break away I had the diesel to about half throttle before it started to drag the trailer through the stone..... I guess the problem is solved. Thanks to those who gave their $.02 - to me it was worth at least double

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by cfisher523

I bring the Sierra home and I end up with the ITBC at 10 and it feels very weak. No throttle applied with the paddles closed it will hold the truck, but if I apply sme throttle the truck will pull the camper without much effort even with the paddles closed and the setting at 10.

It sounds to me like your trailer brakes are not working.

Does the IBC detect the trailer is connected? If NOT the connector is bad.

If YES, I suspect the trailer brakes are not working.

You will need to check the brakes for grease contamination or brakes out of adjustment.

[BlakeB]

Originally Posted by cfisher523

I am new here (first post), but I have searched and not found an answer. Looking for any suggestions or solutions that might be out there. I recently upgraded from my 36' Jayco Eagle TT to a 2013 Sierra 365SAQ. I ran my ITBC at about 5.5 with the Jayco and it was just shy of locking up under a panic braking situation and it felt solid everywhere else.

I bring the Sierra home and I end up with the ITBC at 10 and it feels very weak. No throttle applied with the paddles closed it will hold the truck, but if I apply sme throttle the truck will pull the camper without much effort even with the paddles closed and the setting at 10.

Up to this point I have really loved the ITBC and I hate to bypass or disable it and install something aftermarket. Any ideas? I did add a 7pin in the bed, but I have tried connecting at the bumper as well thinking the new socket was the problem and I still get the same results. I'm looking forward to any input or suggestions that might be out there. I've already solved several of my other issues (A/C ducting etc.) here and I'm hoping for one more win. Thanks!

Easiest way to test your brake controller is get going about 20-25mph and squeeze the controller. Keep upping the number til you get a lockup at that mph and then back it down a half a number or even a whole (not sure how the GM one works) I have an F150 with an integrated controller and thats the process my owners manual said to do and it's worked great.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by BlakeB

Easiest way to test your brake controller is get going about 20-25mph and squeeze the controller. Keep upping the number til you get a lockup at that mph and then back it down a half a number or even a whole (not sure how the GM one works) I have an F150 with an integrated controller and thats the process my owners manual said to do and it's worked great.

This assumes the trailer brakes are working properly. It is hard to test a brake controller without a "known good" trailer. Since his old trailer worked fine then the fault has to lie with the new trailer.

I am betting his brakes are not adjusted properly.

RV Trailer Electric Brake Adjustment - YouTube

[djorgensen3]

He said the culprit was poor adjustment from the factory. I still think he can tighten them up a touch more though.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by djorgensen3

He said the culprit was poor adjustment from the factory. I still think he can tighten them up a touch more though.

Sorry, it is early. I missed that. Thanks.

[BlakeB]

Originally Posted by herk7769

This assumes the trailer brakes are working properly. It is hard to test a brake controller without a "known good" trailer. Since his old trailer worked fine then the fault has to lie with the new trailer.

I am betting his brakes are not adjusted properly.

Yes but I dont think smashing the brakes on the TV til the TT locks up is the best way. Or to apply them and see if the truck can drag the TT is the best either.