Is my f150 enough?

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Aren't the airbags unsprung weight (carried on the axle)? They shouldn't count.

Larry

Weight is weight...

If it's in or on the truck, it will go against the payload.

[JeffandLori]

I think a lot depends on where/how you are towing. Are you going to be primarily in flat to rolling hills? Through the mountains out west? Across the windy plains?

In terms of capacities, I doubt you will be over. I have a 2013 F-150 Crew Cab with 5.0l and 3.35 gears. GCVWR of 13,600, Tow capacity of 8,100 and payload of 1,720. Camper is a 2906WS. Dry is 6969. Fully loaded with full FW tank and food in the fridge is 8080.

Loaded up with WDH hitch engaged, me in the truck, about 100lbs of cargo in the cab and the bed loaded with about 100lbs of other stuff, my tongue weight was 1,220.

Total package weight was right at 13,600.

So I'm right at my tow capacity and my GCVWR capacity but have extra payload. If I add my wife to the truck (this trip she drove separately so I could spend time at the scales) I'm still fine on payload, but just a tad over GCVWR.

Now, my experiences having towed this about 7,000 miles?

When the water tank is full, it does make me a tad anxious and it just doesn't "feel" as good. No water, it feels fine. But that's 300 less pounds. Big trips we usually don't have to bring water, but the vast majority of our trips are 75 miles each way and they don't have water.

I've taken it as far as from S. Fl. up to Tennessee and up and down all the hills in between. The ONLY catch is going down a long grade and getting passed by a semi. Twice that has set up a sway which the truck kicked in and stopped. The first time we noticed the lights on the dash and the anti-sway kicking in before we noticed the trailer.

I do not have any mods to the truck.

I will be upgrading to a larger truck in the future (3-5 years, probably), but as we both still work, there's not a lot of time for large trips. Most of ours are close in Fl and it is totally fine for what we do. I get 8.5-9.5 mpg.

OP: If you like the trailer, get it. Get the WDH set up right. If you are traveling across the windy plains of Oklahoma or constantly in the mountains, I'd accelerate the truck upgrade. Otherwise, I'd plan to enjoy it.

I'm sure I'll get flamed for the above, but knowing what you are comfortable with, being aware of how things are handling and taking your time driving makes a difference.

[Jhall244]

Originally Posted by dannybye

I have ram 1500 2107 4x2 quad cab5.7 hemi equalizer wd hitch. Tow all day long no problem because I set wdh up right and kept playing until I got it right a V-lite 30WFKSV .tongue weight measured is 1050 pounds loaded to travel. Travel weight is 7870 pounds bumper to bumper is 34.7 have a rear camera to see what is going on behind and to the side of me. No stress pulling. Gas mileage 8.5-10.5 depending on terrain. I'm surprised your payload is 250 less than mine. When we travel we have 200 pounds of reserve payload.

By the way my ram dealer/service manager told me the only difference between my 3.21 gears and 3.92 is the gearing itself. Tow rating significantly different 8200 vs 10,340, 2140 pounds more just because gears are different brakes no! Springs no! transmission no. Wonder if ford/chevy is the same

So keep your truck for now you'll be fine

I would bet the 250lb payload difference is from the lack of front drivetrain from only being a 4x2. Also I’m the f150 world if you get a 3.73 ratio it bumps up the axle to a 9.75 axle instead of the 8.8 which in return can handle a bit more weight

Jeffandlori, I live in NE ohio so through the plains of oklahoma would be a stretch. My wife is finishing up nursing school this spring so I’m sure long far away vacations won’t be happening this year as I doubt she will have the the vacation time starting a new job. In the future I sure hope that would be a reality to travel farther but as for now it would be a couple hours in 1 direction or another. And back to her graduating, at that point the extra income could lead to the 3/4 ton truck. Thanks for your input

[tomkatb]

The big three in past years used the lawyers to determine payload. Weasel words!

In the past the optional features like, truck bed, bumper, spare tire, tailgate were not included in the payload numbers published.

This truck has #3200. Actually yours was more like #800. That is how it was. Today there is no universal definition. No SAE spec. This was a no option two door short bed. No fuel or persons. The other one was a fancy four door.

Only way to be sure is load her up,ready to go with all hitches in the bed and weigh it.

I can tell you that longer heavier hd trucks are less stressful to drive. Semis do not blow me around. My truck is higher in the back. Fiver is level.

For this case I think the truck is ok. Marginal from my perspective. He will like a hd truck better. More stopping ability.

[B and B]

Originally Posted by Jhall244

Gcwr is 13500
Gvwr is 7350
Tow is 7800
Curb is 5461
And the payload advertised is 2,060 but the sticker inside the door says 1540

It has a tow package with integrated brake controller, tranny and oil cooler.

Your truck can only carry as the sticker says. Advertising is for bare bones truck.

You do not have enough truck.

[MikeRP]

There is no doubt the OP will like a HD truck better. A lot of the resistance is wind against the trailer. One time I was rolling up I77 to Ohio with my 2008 Dodge MegaCab 2500 CTD and a Ford 7.3 L was going the same way with a similar trailer and on the downhills he was blowing by me and on the uphills I’d catch and pass him. Finally I got tired and on a long uphill blew his doors off and made sure he didn’t catch me again. That truck was great. But his Ford will do the job.

I don’t understand the sway scenario the previous poster talked about on a downhill. I think I’d work on that hitch a little more. It might be worth looking at a Hensley no sway hitch.

[2rad4u]

Originally Posted by JohnD10

You do realize that just because the sticker on the hitch says 11,500 pounds doesn't mean that your vehicle is rated to tow an RV that weighs that much...

Don't you?

Hey, if the "hitch" is rate 11,500...

LOL

[philip8664]

i have the exact 2019 trailer/ setup. only 2013 f-150 fx2 6.2 w/3.73 (last year you could get 6.2 in f-150) only difference is gears and about 40hp less than me. can't believe power i have handles awesome.i keep it under 65 for best gas milage 10.5. the height of this trailer makes all the difference in world.I can't see you having any issues. I had a 2012 raptor t.t. toy hauler almost 9000 lb w/anderson hitch.loaded. truck had no issues but 7.5 mpg @65mph.Ran my new trailer up to 80mph next to semi's no issues except mpg. My opinion any thing over 65mph pulling almost 7000lb in any light truck is unsafe. hope this helps

[philip8664]

hey if the hitch is rated 11,500 and you towing under 7000lb don't you know that that you probably won't have a issue!!! LOL

[JeffandLori]

Originally Posted by MikeRP

I don’t understand the sway scenario the previous poster talked about on a downhill. I think I’d work on that hitch a little more. It might be worth looking at a Hensley no sway hitch.

Hey Mike,

If this was in reference to me, what can happen is as you are going downhill, the trailer is pushing the truck. Then when a semi comes by and the leading wind forces push you away, but the trailing forces try to suck you back, it sets up a sway.

I think it is much more common for this to happen going downhill than level or flat. Usually tapping the trailer brakes is what is advise. However, the anti-sway control in Ford (and now Chevy) includes that when the sensors go off.

Based on weighs and the owners manual for my hitch, it is set up right. Weight distribution bars return the front a little over halfway back to normal ride height. I might could go one more washer, but I'm afraid that would return the front to normal when towing with full water and be below original height when tanks are empty. Since we always return with empty fresh and gray water, I'm opting to leave alone.


Like I said, only happened twice and the first time it was all over before I figured out what it was.

[babock]

Originally Posted by bikendan

Correct!
Passengers isn't exactly correct. The Payload Capacity sticker says OCCUPANTS, which considers the driver as one of the Occupants.

You are correct...no occupants. Driver is not included in the payload.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by babock

You are correct...no occupants. Driver is not included in the payload.

People often get confused regarding the driver.
TOWING capacity usually includes a 150lb driver and full fuel tank.
PAYLOAD capacity only includes full fuel tank.

[babock]

Originally Posted by bikendan

People often get confused regarding the driver.
TOWING capacity usually includes a 150lb driver and full fuel tank.
PAYLOAD capacity only includes full fuel tank.

++++1

[billybigrigger]

It also depends on what year the vehicle is. Manufactures now comply with SAE J2807 for tow capacity ratings. See below for short notes on what this includes:

Trailer Weight Rating and Tow Vehicle Trailering Weight are calculated as specified in SAE J2807.
Passenger Weight = 300 lb.
Options Weight is option content above 33 percent of sales volume. Trailer equipment weight =
Class IV receiver hitch is 11.1 lb (if not already included in options weight).
Trailer Hitch is 10 lb if TWR is less or equal to 5,000 lb and 65 lb if TWR is greater than 5,000 l

[babock]

Originally Posted by billybigrigger

It also depends on what year the vehicle is. Manufactures now comply with SAE J2807 for tow capacity ratings. See below for short notes on what this includes:

Trailer Weight Rating and Tow Vehicle Trailering Weight are calculated as specified in SAE J2807.
Passenger Weight = 300 lb.
Options Weight is option content above 33 percent of sales volume. Trailer equipment weight =
Class IV receiver hitch is 11.1 lb (if not already included in options weight).
Trailer Hitch is 10 lb if TWR is less or equal to 5,000 lb and 65 lb if TWR is greater than 5,000 l

That's for towing capacity...not payload capacity if you were referring to mine and Bikendan's discussion.

[billybigrigger]

Correct, it was in addition to the comment about a 150lb driver for towing capacity.

[itat]

There are always 2 schools when it comes to the question “can I tow this”. Those who want to stay within their numbers, and those who only care about how it feels. The first is objective, the latter is entirely subjective.

If you want to stay within your truck’s numbers - typically the GVWR is exceeded first - fill up the gas tank and take it to a CAT scale to see how much below the GVWR you are and how much actual payload you have available.

[Jhall244]

I’m going to continue with the purchase but am currently going to start looking for a nice used super duty

[007matman]

Originally Posted by Jhall244

I’m going to continue with the purchase but am currently going to start looking for a nice used super duty

Good call.

Personally, I like the older Diesel trucks that either didn't have all of the emissions stuff or a Gasser.

The 7.3 SuperDuty ('99 -'03) is a good choice but tranny's are weak so look to replace one of those at some point. Also, a little weak in the power department. It'll haul just about anything though.. just don't plan to be the first one there. These engines have very few issues and 500k (or more) is common.

The 6.0 ('03-'07) is a great choice as power was greatly increased and the Tranny is rock solid. Head Gaskets and EGR/Oil Cooler issues are something to watch for. Try to find one that's been documented as being bulletproofed with Head Studs, EGR, etc and you'll have a truck that will last for a long time (500k or more is doable). If you can't find one that was bulletproofed then I'd look for a clean truck at the right price so you could afford to do it at some point (6-7k).

Avoid the 6.4 like the plague. Too many issues there so stay away from that one (sorry 6.4 owners.. I don't mean to ruffle any feathers here).

The 6.7's good as long as it's been well maintained. Emissions system stuff is the most common item and can get very expensive really quick.

That V10 gasser is one I wish I could have found a clean example of when I was shopping. Most of those that I found were stripped work trucks there are some out there that are well equipped though. Lots of them are beat on pretty good.

I'm going to bet that you could pick up a good used 6.0 for about what your 2014 is worth and go from there. Sell your truck privately.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Buy a F350 DRW, it's the only vehicle capable of towing anything.