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Old 09-04-2016, 07:45 PM   #11
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yeah i was planning to take the 3rd row seat out. i really like this floor plan because of the rear window and recliners. my goal was to take this set up to the rockies once a year and to texas and just local as well.
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Old 09-04-2016, 08:08 PM   #12
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You will definitely not be happy towing that in the Rockies. You will want to go much lighter if towing in the Rockies... or if you can afford it, get that tt and trade the burb for either a more capable truck with a crew cab or a 3/4 ton burb.
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Old 09-04-2016, 08:27 PM   #13
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You will definitely not be happy towing that in the Rockies. You will want to go much lighter if towing in the Rockies... or if you can afford it, get that tt and trade the burb for either a more capable truck with a crew cab or a 3/4 ton burb.
My burb is my baby! lol ill look for a smaller travel trailer then. at least my thoughts were correct that this trailer was getting close to my limits.
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Old 09-04-2016, 08:45 PM   #14
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I understand. It is always a compromise. Some compromise on the tt, others compromise on the tv. Which one is always personal preference.

By the way, do you have the towing package with the heavy duty transmission cooler? If not then definitely get that added to your burb for the mountains.
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Old 09-04-2016, 08:50 PM   #15
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I understand. It is always a compromise. Some compromise on the tt, others compromise on the tv. Which one is always personal preference.

By the way, do you have the towing package with the heavy duty transmission cooler? If not then definitely get that added to your burb for the mountains.
yeah, my burb will have all of that installed before i even get my travel trailer. so question for you. would it be safe to say i need to look at travel trailers under GVWR of 6,000 lbs? which would keep me safe for my payload for my criteria???
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Old 09-04-2016, 09:04 PM   #16
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What we are looking at is loaded, not dry tongue weight. Ideal loaded tongue weight is 13-15% of loaded tt weight. On average people tend to add 1000-1500 lbs of stuff to their trailers. All the food, clothes, chairs, tools, propane, battery etc really adds up quickly. To give you an idea, we are a family of 3. Our old tt was 5700 lbs dry and 7300 lbs loaded (it had a 7700 lb gvwr). Our loaded tongue weight ended up at about 1000 lbs.

So let's look at some numbers for you...
6000 lbs gvwr x .15% tongue weight would give you a high end 900 lbs tongue weight. I would shoot for no more than a loaded weight of 5500 lbs which would net you a high end tongue weight of 825 lbs.

Also remember heavier will stress your vehicle more on the mountain passes. You will be running high rpms and need to run low gears up and down the mountain passes.
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Old 09-04-2016, 09:06 PM   #17
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yeah, my burb will have all of that installed before i even get my travel trailer. so question for you. would it be safe to say i need to look at travel trailers under GVWR of 6,000 lbs? which would keep me safe for my payload for my criteria???

I have a few tools at http://www.towingplanner.com that should help if you're looking to stay within payload.

Here's a write-up that I did that should help:
http://learntorv.com/what-can-i-tow/
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Old 09-04-2016, 09:12 PM   #18
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I have a few tools at Towing Planner - towing capability calculators that should help if you're looking to stay within payload.

Here's a write-up that I did that should help:
What Can I Tow? | Learn To RV

yeah i found that website about an hour ago so im using that calculator alot to figure out what travel trailer i like and to see if its a good fit for the burb. btw i read that article 1st then went onto the calculator. great write up though!!
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Old 09-04-2016, 09:25 PM   #19
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One caution about trying to figure out what your Suburban can handle. RV manufacturers' brochure "dry weights" are notoriously optimistic because they don't seem to account for a lot of options including "mandatory options". Try to find a picture of the yellow actual weight sticker from a unit like you're interested in. That'll give you a more realistic picture that you can work with in doing your calculations.

For your Suburban, get the trans cooler and hitch installed and then take it to a scale with a full tank of fuel and the 2 of you and the dogs on board to get your unloaded curb weight. Compare that to your GVWR and that's what payload you have left to work with. You'll probably exceed your GVWR before you exceed your rear axle's rating.

Good luck with your search!
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Old 09-04-2016, 10:09 PM   #20
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Perform your due diligence with tow planners etc. and try to determine what you would be comfortable with on paper. As an RV'r with real world experience with YOUR tow vehicle I can tell you that the suburban 1500 Z71 5.3/3.73/4sp with tow package tows my 23IKSS 6700 lb GVWR very well in terms of handling, with a properly dialed in W/D hitch, and adequately in terms of power. The steeper eastern mountain grades will require 2nd gear and 4k RPMs to maintain speed. I don't have any experience with the western mountains and the effect of higher elevation and the corresponding reduced engine power.

Unless you have the 4.10 axle ratio I wouldn't even consider going heavier than what I tow. I am able to keep all of my numbers within limits by packing trailer heavy and tow vehicle light.

If you plan to keep your Suburban as your TV I would recommend that you replace your factory hitch with a better aftermarket hitch. The factory GMT-800 hitches were poor and will deflect when you install your weight distribution bars which doesn't allow for the proper weight distribution. I installed an excellent Curt hitch in about 30 mins, cost about $150.00.
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