Just for diesel owners

[mz_cummins]

Originally Posted by Alleyantique

Is there a reason for not recommending MOPAR filters? I notice there is only 1 comment from a reader that like myself, uses OEM filters. I assumed that if they are good enough for the factory and dealers, they should be good enough for me to use when I change my own oil.

For diesels the Mopar filters are just rebranded Fleetguard filters with a higher price, Cummins owns Fleetguard, you can save some money by running Fleetguard stratapore over buying Mopar


For oil I run Amsoil/Donaldson or Fleetguard

For fuel I run Donaldson or Fleetguard

People also need to watch running filters like wix ( they make some great filters, and I do use them ), Napa, etc., just because they cross reference doesn’t mean they are the same, sometimes the specs don’t even meet OEM standards and will void warranty, cross reference only means they will fit size wise and threads

[cstover]

Originally Posted by mz_cummins

For diesels the Mopar filters are just rebranded Fleetguard filters with a higher price, Cummins owns Fleetguard, you can save some money by running Fleetguard stratapore over buying Mopar


For oil I run Amsoil/Donaldson or Fleetguard

For fuel I run Donaldson or Fleetguard

People also need to watch running filters like wix ( they make some great filters, and I do use them ), Napa, etc., just because they cross reference doesn’t mean they are the same, sometimes the specs don’t even meet OEM standards and will void warranty, cross reference only means they will fit size wise and threads

I just got Mopar filters for a $1 less than Fleetguard at Genos Garage.

[Jim34RL]

Originally Posted by cstover

I just got Mopar filters for a $1 less than Fleetguard at Genos Garage.

That's the low cost Fleetguard filter that is rebranded to the MOPAR brand. Which has a filtration rating of 5 micron. The MOPAR filter that is equivalent to the Fleetguard Nanonet which is 3 micron rate is the same cost. This is the only filter that I buy the Nanonet by Fleetguard. The lower the filtration rating the better for the C3P fuel pump.

Also Geno's only sells the MOPAR oil filter for the Eco-diesel. They sell only the Fleetguard oil filters for the Cummins engine. Per the latest catalog winter 2018.

[cstover]

Originally Posted by Jim34RL

That's the low cost Fleetguard filter that is rebranded to the MOPAR brand. Which has a filtration rating of 5 micron. The MOPAR filter that is equivalent to the Fleetguard Nanonet which is 3 micron rate is the same cost. This is the only filter that I buy the Nanonet by Fleetguard. The lower the filtration rating the better for the C3P fuel pump.

Also Geno's only sells the MOPAR oil filter for the Eco-diesel. They sell only the Fleetguard oil filters for the Cummins engine. Per the latest catalog winter 2018.

And they work great.

[Jeeptchr]

For what it's worth I just bought a '13 Ford 6.7 with 64k miles on it. After driving it for a week or so it started having a whine at idle only after reaching and engine oil temp of 190 degrees. Drove me nuts trying to diagnose so I went to my usual diesel mechanic, he's like "alternator bearings", two other shops were like "that's a new sound" and "egr cooler is plugged".

Called Ford, scheduled an appointment. Mechanic calls Ford tech line. Comes over to me and says "Did you know your truck has a fram filter on it". My response "Yes I saw that. Just bought the truck and haven't changed the oil yet figured it had a fresh oil change.". Mechanic "Ford said put a Motorcraft filet in it and it'll fix the whine". Me. "Ok, weird but lets try it, change the oil also".

Moral of story:
7k miles later, no whine sound ever again. This truck will always get Motorcraft filters and oil as long as I own it.

The dealership mentioned the other day that they have noticed this on other 6.7's also since then. Good enough reason for me.

[Mad Cow]

I have no doubt the anecdote you stated. But something that should be considered.... the Fram could have been the wrong one for the application, and Ford doesn't make any of its filters. It is all outsourced. Not sure who, but just because the filter is not a Motorcraft filter does not mean it is a slouch.

Similarly, the folks in the Cat diesel community like to really tout how they only use Cat filters and those are the best. They fail to realize than the bulk of Cat filters are made by Donaldson, the same brand I use on my diesels. Was talking with the regional rep for Donaldson one day at a meeting and he verified that Donaldson makes the majority of Cat's filters.

The interesting question would be.. who is making Motorcraft?

It is a similar thing to who makes Motorcraft oil? Ford sure doesn't.

[Jeeptchr]

Originally Posted by Mad Cow

I have not doubt the anecdote you stated. But something that should be considered.... the Fram could have been the wrong one for the application, and Ford doesn't make any of its filters. It is all outsourced. Not sure who, but just because the filter is not a Motorcraft filter does not mean it is a slouch.

Similarly, the folks in the Cat diesel community like to really tout how they only use Cat filters and those are the best. They fail to realize than the bulk of Cat filters are made by Donaldson, the same brand I use on my diesels. Was talking with the regional rep for Donaldson one day at a meeting and he verified that Donaldson makes the majority of Cat's filters.

The interesting question would be.. who is making Motorcraft?

I’ve searched a bit and haven’t found the answer to that question... I would like to know also [emoji4]

I checked, it was the right fram filter for the application, my theory is it was something to do with cavitation in the the upper filter stamping, as the sound resonated up the turbo oil line from the filter mount. And it was only at idle as soon as you took it off idle it went away.

I run Wix if I have to on my jeeps but usually mopar, and grew up with lubi-finer filters on a lot of our equipment and heavy duty trucks. I remember some Donaldson filters on the shelf also for the semis.

[jgump]

2016 F350 6.7L diesel - frame mounted fuel filter change- having trouble.

Hey all - having a bear of a time changing my frame mounted fuel filter. In two attempts I have drained approx 5 gals of fuel into canisters and it just won't stop. What's the trick to changing this filter without taking a diesel fuel bath? I don't have a place where I can just let fuel spill all over the place. I open the yellow valve to drain whatever is in the canister housing the filter but it never stops draining. I tried again yesterday with nearly empty fuel tank. Still would not stop. So I closed off the drain valve and gave up. The videos on YouTube seem to show that you might get a quart or two to drain out and then it stops. Why is mine not stopping? Thanks in advance for any help.

John

[Helmsey]

Originally Posted by jgump

2016 F350 6.7L diesel - frame mounted fuel filter change- having trouble.

Hey all - having a bear of a time changing my frame mounted fuel filter. In two attempts I have drained approx 5 gals of fuel into canisters and it just won't stop. What's the trick to changing this filter without taking a diesel fuel bath? I don't have a place where I can just let fuel spill all over the place. I open the yellow valve to drain whatever is in the canister housing the filter but it never stops draining. I tried again yesterday with nearly empty fuel tank. Still would not stop. So I closed off the drain valve and gave up. The videos on YouTube seem to show that you might get a quart or two to drain out and then it stops. Why is mine not stopping? Thanks in advance for any help.

John

If I remember right I had to loosen the housing 3 turns before opening the yellow drain valve. If memory serves loosening the housing shuts a check valve to prevent fuel from free flowing out the drain valve.

[RCW]

All this talk about who really makes this or that filter. Remember filters are made to different spec's. Just because brand "X" makes the filters labeled for manufacture "A" does not mean that the filter brand X markets with their name on it meets the same spec's.

[aircommuter]

On the question about replacing the filter the answer you received is correct, you can loosen the cover three full turns or just remove it, then the valve will be closed.

[jgump]

Awesome. Thanks everyone. I was thinking I was not doing something right and I've never read or watched on YouTube about loosening the housing 3 turns. Now I can change without having to wait unit near empty fuel tank

Much Appreciated

John

[aircommuter]

If it is something I haven’t done before or don’t recall I get it from Alldata pro, so if I can help I will.

[spock123]

Changing the fuel I let someone else do. I have a 100 gallon extra fuel tank and I always pump into the tank and then pump out of tank into truck. I have one water block filter and soon I plan to install another filter there

[Lins]

Originally Posted by Mad Cow

Lots of digs at Fram. Problem is, there are different varieties of Fram. The gold Fram Ultra is a totally different critter than the base orange Fram. Superior in quality and rivals most anything on the market. That has been shown in independent testing. I don't use them, but that doesn't mean I wouldn't. I just use a brand that I have trusted for many years.

As for how often you change the oil, just go with the OEM recommendation. There are many who take diesel oil changes double or triple the 5000 mile interval that is being recommended here with nary a problem. Even on my little 2006 2.8L Jeep Liberty diesel, I changed it at about 11,000 miles, and it is now in the hands of my son who does likewise. My larger diesels never see an oil change before 20,000 miles. One of them just turned over 800,000 miles and still runs as good as the day I bought it new and has never had a major repair. Same injectors, turbo, etc as the day it was new. Uses about 1 qt of oil in 11,000 miles. Today's oils are light years ahead of what they were a decade or two ago. Just follow the OEM change recommendation and enjoy.

Check with major oil industry people. There is such a thing as changing oil too soon. Certain additives in motor oil do not reach their full effectiveness at protecting the engine if the oil is changed too soon.

Run an oil analysis and see just how long you should run your oil.

[Mad Cow]

Originally Posted by Lins

Run an oil analysis and see just how long you should run your oil.

I do that on my heavy stuff. Not really worth it on my personal stuff. The pickup gets a once per year oil change, as it rarely sees more than 6000 miles a year on it. The car (2006 Cadillac CTS 3.6L) gets the oil changed at about 6000 miles also. The cost of UOA on them is hardly worth it. The car gets a plain Pennzoil 10w30 conventional I get at the local farm and home. The pickup (2015 2500 6.0L) gets a 5w30 I get thru my commercial supplier. One case lasts me two years for that. Kinda ridiculous to spend $25 on a UOA for them.

[Crusadernoob]

Originally Posted by Mad Cow

I do that on my heavy stuff. Not really worth it on my personal stuff. The pickup gets a once per year oil change, as it rarely sees more than 6000 miles a year on it. The car (2006 Cadillac CTS 3.6L) gets the oil changed at about 6000 miles also. The cost of UOA on them is hardly worth it. The car gets a plain Pennzoil 10w30 conventional I get at the local farm and home. The pickup (2015 2500 6.0L) gets a 5w30 I get thru my commercial supplier. One case lasts me two years for that. Kinda ridiculous to spend $25 on a UOA for them.

I have an oil analysis done about every year to year and a half, piece of mind that nothing is going on that I should know about.

[Lins]

There’s a couple ways to use oil analysis. One, to see how long YOUR engine can safely run on an oil change and you don’t have to keep using them. Two, keep using them and you can see what else going on in your engine. An added benefit is when you go to sell the truck you can (hopefully) have clean reports to help with resale.