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Old 01-27-2016, 07:25 AM   #21
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Kenny, posted payload is never accurate. Door sticker never is either. Kind of like dry weights on a trailer. Everyone loves to jump up and down on the forums about the lack of accuracy in RV dry weights but for some reason payload stickers and manufacturer ratings on trucks seem to be taken as gospel. The only way to know your real payload number is found the same way as finding your RV's weight. Take it to a scale with the family, your hitch in, a full tank of fuel, and any gear you normally travel with aboard. Then subtract that scale number from the truck's GVWR and you have your actual payload.
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Old 01-27-2016, 07:52 AM   #22
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I know.. I can see, being off by a couple hundred, but not 1000lbs.

It shouldn't be that hard for the manufacturer to be accurate on these numbers.

That 1k I'm missing, is pretty much the need to go to a drw.

( or maybe a 2500... Lol)


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Old 01-27-2016, 09:31 AM   #23
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How does anyone make an informed decision on trucks and trailers, when both the truck and trailer manufacturers posted weights are so far off!


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Old 01-27-2016, 09:36 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Kenny kustom View Post
How does anyone make an informed decision on trucks and trailers, when both the truck and trailer manufacturers posted weights are so far off!


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That should be the quote of the year!!
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Old 01-27-2016, 09:53 AM   #25
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You really have to be your own advocate. Do your own weighing before buying on both or talk to someone you trust with the same setup that did. I agree, it shouldn't have to be that way...
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Old 01-27-2016, 10:07 AM   #26
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You really have to be your own advocate. Do your own weighing before buying on both or talk to someone you trust with the same setup that did. I agree, it shouldn't have to be that way...

I wish that would be possible.
Yes, you could weigh your empty truck, but to actually weigh truck and trailer together, before purchase would be impossible.


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Old 01-27-2016, 10:17 AM   #27
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I don't think you'd have to. You can weigh the pin of the RV with a Sherline pin weight scale and weigh your truck at a drive on scale. Those are the two numbers you really need to be concerned with. Total weight of the RV is less important than the pin when you're worried about payload.
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Old 01-27-2016, 10:27 AM   #28
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I don't think you'd have to. You can weigh the pin of the RV with a Sherline pin weight scale and weigh your truck at a drive on scale. Those are the two numbers you really need to be concerned with. Total weight of the RV is less important than the pin when you're worried about payload.

That would work.
You're right, total weight doesn't matter as much, but pin in very important.


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Old 01-27-2016, 10:33 AM   #29
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They come in 1k, 2k, and 5k. For some reason the 5k is more expensive. This is funny because the scales are identical but for a different gauge that costs the same to manufacturer. I actually had a 2k when I was a TT guy and bought a new dial to convert it to 5k when I bought a 5th. One thing to remember is never lift a Sherline by it's scale pad. It can pull out of the scale requiring bleeding to get it working correctly.
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Old 01-27-2016, 10:43 AM   #30
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How does anyone make an informed decision on trucks and trailers, when both the truck and trailer manufacturers posted weights are so far off!


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That should be the quote of the year!!
X2

I agree with both of you. I lost close to 1000 lbs of payload on my truck after options and ready to camp weights. You can stubby pencil weights all you want but you don't know till you pull it on the scales. My 5er had dry pin weight percentage of 19.8 percent but after loaded ready to camp it had 24.1 percent pin weight. There is no way to know till you put it the scales. I think a lot of people if they would scale would find they are not only over the yellow lawyer sticker but also over axle weights and tire ratings. I know I was with my Chevy 2500HD with 2475 pay load and the 5er below.
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