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Old 07-28-2015, 07:13 PM   #11
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I have the Reese 20k and while towing last weekend it acted like it was loose also , every time I would go to take off at a light or stop it would slap back so I'm gonna check out adjustments also . I do know the dealer did not do any what so ever when it was installed and when I go to hook up and back in the the pin it has never latched it's self like I know most do
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Old 07-28-2015, 07:27 PM   #12
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The wedge must be pushed forward and the slots filled with steel to prevent it from moving and then torque.
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Old 07-31-2015, 02:12 PM   #13
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The wedge must be pushed forward and the slots filled with steel to prevent it from moving and then torque.
You mean the slots in the wedge itself ?
That's not mentioned in the official install guide, but is a nice suggestion.
Do you have any specific recommendation on what to use to fill the slots ?

I don't have a big workshop or anything, and my tools are limited, but if it's something I can cut with a dremel or jigsaw then great. Any suggestions appreciated as always
Thanks
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Old 07-31-2015, 03:48 PM   #14
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You mean the slots in the wedge itself ?
That's not mentioned in the official install guide, but is a nice suggestion.
Do you have any specific recommendation on what to use to fill the slots ?

I don't have a big workshop or anything, and my tools are limited, but if it's something I can cut with a dremel or jigsaw then great. Any suggestions appreciated as always
Thanks
I think the thickness of the slot material is either 3/8" or 1/2", all you have to do is find a bolt (under the head) that is the length of the slot to the 5/8" bolt and insert it. You can glue it in place with silicone, etc. The slots should be filled on both sides of the 5/8" bolts(front bolt and back bolt and on both sides of both bolts) so the wedge cannot move frontwards or backwards.
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Old 07-31-2015, 04:35 PM   #15
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I think the thickness of the slot material is either 3/8" or 1/2", all you have to do is find a bolt (under the head) that is the length of the slot to the 5/8" bolt and insert it. You can glue it in place with silicone, etc. The slots should be filled on both sides of the 5/8" bolts(front bolt and back bolt and on both sides of both bolts) so the wedge cannot move frontwards or backwards.
I'm guessing that you've had, or know of others that have had, real issues with the wedge moving even when torqued correctly ?

If so then it sounds like a better wedge design is needed.

I'm sure I can get a couple of bolts of a suitable diameter and cut them to length with dremel etc, to fill the slots, tho' I'm not particularly keen on fixing them in with silicone etc, since that sounds messy and not particularly reliable. I'll try to think of an alternative.

Do you agree with the principal of using the wedge to stop the king-pin moving in the hitch jaws, or do you think I need to shim the king-pin/hitch itself ?
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Old 08-03-2015, 09:05 PM   #16
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Here is something I got from Reese
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Old 12-03-2015, 03:25 PM   #17
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Just a little update to this.
I bought the Revolution/Sidewinder wedge specifically for the Reese Titan hitches, which helps with hitching up somewhat, but doesn't make any difference to the kicking/slipping.

I'm now convinced that the majority of the kicking/"chucking" is because there is a fair bit of front-to-back movement between the (removable) hitch head and the hitch frame, so even if the king-pin is tight in the hitch jaws the head itself will still move back and forth on the hitch frame.
I'm not sure if there's anything I can realistically do about this. It seems like the hitch head is designed to be loose on the horizontal front-to-back 'pins' on the frame that it rests on.
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Old 12-03-2015, 03:40 PM   #18
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I'm guessing that you've had, or know of others that have had, real issues with the wedge moving even when torqued correctly ?

If so then it sounds like a better wedge design is needed.

I'm sure I can get a couple of bolts of a suitable diameter and cut them to length with dremel etc, to fill the slots, tho' I'm not particularly keen on fixing them in with silicone etc, since that sounds messy and not particularly reliable. I'll try to think of an alternative.

Do you agree with the principal of using the wedge to stop the king-pin moving in the hitch jaws, or do you think I need to shim the king-pin/hitch itself ?
Silicone would only be used to hold it in place if you don't have access to a welder. I would cut a steel shim to remove the slack in the hitch head to the framework itself. I had to make shims to put under all legs to remove the slack there. When I get home, I will tack weld them in place(provided CRS doesn't kick in again) which I should have done 3+ yrs ago.
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Old 12-03-2015, 04:03 PM   #19
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Silicone would only be used to hold it in place if you don't have access to a welder. I would cut a steel shim to remove the slack in the hitch head to the framework itself. I had to make shims to put under all legs to remove the slack there. When I get home, I will tack weld them in place(provided CRS doesn't kick in again) which I should have done 3+ yrs ago.
Hmm, only thing I can think of to remove the slack would be something like a couple of large diameter washers, one with a larger hole, welded together, with a screw sitting recessed in the larger ID washer screwed into the frame ...

or some kind of shim in the head itself (but I'd have to take a look at how I'd attach that)
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Old 12-03-2015, 05:11 PM   #20
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Hmm, only thing I can think of to remove the slack would be something like a couple of large diameter washers, one with a larger hole, welded together, with a screw sitting recessed in the larger ID washer screwed into the frame ...

or some kind of shim in the head itself (but I'd have to take a look at how I'd attach that)
A few pictures would help provide some idea of the problem you are encountering/fighting.
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