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Old 07-27-2013, 09:39 AM   #1
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Landing Gear Help

This is my first 5th wheel. Have been towing a trailer for several years. I ordered the "JT Strong Arm Stabilizers" on my Sabre 32RCTS-6 from the factory. I picked up the rig last week. My concern is that the landing gear cannot fully retract because the Stabilizers hit the battery box when retracted preventing full retraction. The best I can get is about 14.5 inches between the ground and the front landing gear, if I remove the landing pad and the stabilizer locking screw. So am I missing something here? I know it is not ideal but is there a safety issue with these things hanging down? FR should have moved the battery boxes back a couple of inches (there is room) and this problem would have been solved. I will take this up with my dealer next month when I drop it off for warranty work, but the DW & I are heading out tomorrow for a month. You think I am ok?
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Old 07-27-2013, 09:43 AM   #2
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Cut the tab sticking out from the U shaped pc on the leg and turn it 90degrees and move it over away from the bat. box. If they were mine, I would turn all the tightening handles to the side or the bottom.
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Old 07-27-2013, 09:46 AM   #3
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Can you rotate the stabilizer arm 180 degrees so that the lock bolt is pointed down? That would eliminate having to remove it.
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Old 07-27-2013, 09:48 AM   #4
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I don't have the JT's but looking at the pics, is it possible to flip the bar that the T handle is attached to, so it won't interfere with the box?

Like most items, factory/Dealer should have caught that @ installation & corrected.
I always retract my landing gear to the very top so no possible issues with dragging the footpads if you come across a severe dip in the road like at some fueling stations.



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Old 07-27-2013, 09:52 AM   #5
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If you don't have the means to cut and weld as OC suggested, you could also bolt a metal tab to the existing tab and move the mounting point a couple inches forward. A simple metal tab with 2 holes should do the trick.
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Old 07-27-2013, 09:59 AM   #6
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A bit more info

I am trying to understand all this.
Just turning the locking bolt will not help as the arm will hit the box.

I SORT of understand that you think I should move the arms a bit forward of the battery box. I cannot cut & weld and I live in a small town. Wont get it done by time we want to leave. TTrust, I am not fully following can you provide a bit more detail.

The real question is: Can I tow as is if I cannot get it fixed?

Thanks guys.
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidceder View Post
I am trying to understand all this.
Just turning the locking bolt will not help as the arm will hit the box.

I SORT of understand that you think I should move the arms a bit forward of the battery box. I cannot cut & weld and I live in a small town. Wont get it done by time we want to leave. TTrust, I am not fully following can you provide a bit more detail.

The real question is: Can I tow as is if I cannot get it fixed?

Thanks guys.
I think you would be fine towing the way you are. To clarify a little more. If you imagine a piece of steel about an inch wide and 2 1/2" long with a hole on each end, unbolt your arm where it meets the landing, bolt tab onto landing gear bracket, then bolt arm to tab. This would move the point at which the arm meets the landing gear about 2" forward and may be enough to clear your battery box.
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:50 AM   #8
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Got it.

Good simple idea. I will see what I can get done.
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:43 AM   #9
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It's not right but it made it from the factory to dealer and then to your home. You only need to be careful should you have to backup onto a steep incline. As already mentioned, the mounting points need to be reworked to correct the interference.

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Old 07-27-2013, 01:45 PM   #10
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Decided to be safe

I have decided to disconnect the end of the JT's where they attach near the landing gear. I purchased some wing nuts that will allow me to re-attach when I get into camp. After I raise the landing gear I will wire the loose end of the JT's up and out of the way with wire. When I get into camp I will simply undo the wire, drop the JT's into position, install the bolt and wing nut. I think this is fast, simple and safe. We are only going to 3-4 camp sites this trip. I will let the dealer figure it out with FR so I have no warranty issues in the future.

Thanks for all you help and suggestions. I will make sure this gets back to the factory.
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Old 07-27-2013, 02:14 PM   #11
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14.5 inches of clearance sounds OK.
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:42 PM   #12
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Just measured my spare tire, which is mounted underneath in front, 14" to ground when hitched. You should be fine with 14.5". Have never come even close to touching, but I still think its a fairly easy fix for a dealer or a person with the right tools. Your temporary fix will give you the peace of mind for now. Happy camping!
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