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Old 08-24-2012, 11:49 AM   #21
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You might forego the gear change. Most of the 5ers I see are in the 13k - 15.5k range pulled w/ TVs w/ 373:1 gears w/o issues or problems. Find yourself a good hitch, one that will slow for upgrade later . I'm partial to the Curt 20k for my requirements. No "high hitch" problem like seen w/ Drawtite/Reese hitches. Hook up is much easier also.
Please explain what you mean by "No high hitch problem" We are all confused.
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Old 08-24-2012, 12:20 PM   #22
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Maybe he means the height of the hitch mechanism from the bed of the truck. The silverado hd already sits pretty high off the ground.

I am also considering trading one of my trailers for a 5ver and selecting the right hitch for my silverado is confusing.
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Old 08-24-2012, 12:33 PM   #23
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Maybe he means the height of the hitch mechanism from the bed of the truck. The silverado hd already sits pretty high off the ground.

I am also considering trading one of my trailers for a 5ver and selecting the right hitch for my silverado is confusing.
The hitches are adjustable up & down as are the hitchpins on most trailers.
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:51 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunnnc

Please explain what you mean by "No high hitch problem" We are all confused.
Dunnc:

With the Curt hitch, the head remains in the "as hitched" position due to having a vertical cast member that engages a heavy rubber donut. Since the head can't tilt all over the place it is ready to accept the pin, and the lock pawls wrap around the pin without any excess, marking their engagement a "tight fit" If not properly aligned, no lock!

When we had the other brand, "high hitch" was always a probable outcome, that required constant vigilance to get positively hitched every time we hooked up.
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:55 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunnnc

The hitches are adjustable up & down as are the hitchpins on most trailers.
High hitch is a problem that will manifest itself regardless of how a hitch is adjusted within the bed.
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Old 08-28-2012, 03:24 PM   #26
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Dunnc:

With the Curt hitch, the head remains in the "as hitched" position due to having a vertical cast member that engages a heavy rubber donut. Since the head can't tilt all over the place it is ready to accept the pin, and the lock pawls wrap around the pin without any excess, marking their engagement a "tight fit" If not properly aligned, no lock!

When we had the other brand, "high hitch" was always a probable outcome, that required constant vigilance to get positively hitched every time we hooked up.
What most every one understands "high hitch" meaning is the pin it too high to engage in the hitch. Has nothing to do with whether the hitch tilts. As I mentioned previously, when I unhitch, the hitch automatically falls down in the back and is perfectly level and as long as I don't raise the trailer too high, it cannot "high hitch". Also, if the hitch was tilted to one side or the other on its own (which mine won't), as soon as the pinbox touches the hitch, it will tilt the hitch ramp back level unless of course the pin is too high.

I think the whole point of confusion is the terminology being used.
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