Lube the ball coupler?!?

[Moparman1230]

Originally Posted by PredGunner

Thanks MOPARMAN. Looks like we are close in TV and TT. I just7 don't like the rust issue. Maybe just hit it with a little WD40 and wire brush and wipe off after.

You’re welcome!

[ray98]

Originally Posted by Teetime

Metal on metal contact is going to wear off whatever grease is on there in the first couple miles and you are back to metal to metal contact anyway.

Yet when I unhook mine still has a nice coating of grease....it didn't go anywhere.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by ray98

Yet when I unhook mine still has a nice coating of grease....it didn't go anywhere.

Years ago I worked with a triblogist.

Tribology is defined as the science and engineering of interacting surfaces in relative motion. It includes the study and application of the principles of friction, lubrication and wear.

He distinguished wear/lubrication scenarios as "scrubbing" or "not-scrubbing." Scrubbing situations were much harder to lubricate than non-scrubbing ones. Putting grease between the leaves of a leaf spring assembly would be scrubbing because when the leaf spring deflects under load, grease is pushed out the ends, and is never recovered when the load is removed. By contrast, a shaft in a sleeve bearing is non-scrubbing. There's no direct action to remove the grease from the bearing surface. The same is true for ball bearings and roller bearings--trailer axle bearings.

Consider some of the areas we've discussed:

• Ball coupler: Non-scrubbing. Grease will stay in place. (Attracting abrasive particles could cause wear.)
• Coupler latching mechanism: This has sliding parts and hence is scrubbing. More frequent lubrication is required.
• Trunions on weight-distribution hitch: These are the pins on the ends of the bars. They are non-scrubbing and lube should stay in place.
• Slider bars on anti-sway mechanism: These work by frictional drag and should not be lubricated per manufacturer's instructions (I guess. We don't actually have one.)

There are several different kinds of dry lube available. These lubricate without capturing abrasive grit and sand. One of the oldest is powdered graphite. CRC 03084 Dry Molybdenum-Disulfide Lube was recommended for my golf cart but has bunches of other uses. It's safe with plastics and non-conductive.

Larry

[KFX450RXC]

I have my own landscape maintenance business. I just replaced a 2" ball that easily had well over 100,000 miles on it towing one of my trailers. That trailer weighs somewhere in the mid-5000 lb. range with an average tongue weight of 750 lbs.

The ball has never been greased. Once in awhile I will spray the coupler with some WD-40 or something but the ball stays dry. The only reason I replaced it was because I find a deal on etrailer for new strong one and this old was so old looking.

Whether or not you grease your hitch ball, that's your opinion. But I say once again, 100,000+ miles over about 6-7 years and not a drop of grease or a problem.

[jimmoore13]

My practice:
Grease on the ball. Cover the ball when not connected. Wheel bearing grease might be a better choice, but I keep a small grease gun in my tool box so chassis grease it is.

Dry silicone spray to lube the hitch lock mechanism. This frequently becomes balky and hard to latch, but a few squirts make everything smooth and easy.

When I have the spray out, I lube my hitch lock...the mechanism and the tumblers. It's a hard life out there on the road.

[EdnKat]

I spray a bit of White Lithium grease in the ball receiver. Wipe the ball off each time.

[campkasten]

We also lube the ball & keep it covered when not in use. I like the idea of using dry lube on the coupler & locking mechanism. Have to try that.

[15 windy]

For what it’s worth ,I was taught some 20 odd years ago that the way to release the TT from the TV was to place TV in neutral (chocked loosely) and then when you raise the TT from the hitch ball it will not stick but come right off. Until I was shown this I used to jump up and down to get the dang thing to release.
I also lube the ball.

[jwfrede]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Years ago I worked with a triblogist.

Tribology is defined as the science and engineering of interacting surfaces in relative motion. It includes the study and application of the principles of friction, lubrication and wear.

He distinguished wear/lubrication scenarios as "scrubbing" or "not-scrubbing." Scrubbing situations were much harder to lubricate than non-scrubbing ones. Putting grease between the leaves of a leaf spring assembly would be scrubbing because when the leaf spring deflects under load, grease is pushed out the ends, and is never recovered when the load is removed. By contrast, a shaft in a sleeve bearing is non-scrubbing. There's no direct action to remove the grease from the bearing surface. The same is true for ball bearings and roller bearings--trailer axle bearings.

Consider some of the areas we've discussed:

• Ball coupler: Non-scrubbing. Grease will stay in place. (Attracting abrasive particles could cause wear.)
• Coupler latching mechanism: This has sliding parts and hence is scrubbing. More frequent lubrication is required.
• Trunions on weight-distribution hitch: These are the pins on the ends of the bars. They are non-scrubbing and lube should stay in place.
• Slider bars on anti-sway mechanism: These work by frictional drag and should not be lubricated per manufacturer's instructions (I guess. We don't actually have one.)

There are several different kinds of dry lube available. These lubricate without capturing abrasive grit and sand. One of the oldest is powdered graphite. CRC 03084 Dry Molybdenum-Disulfide Lube was recommended for my golf cart but has bunches of other uses. It's safe with plastics and non-conductive.

Larry

Did you ever discuss using wax paper as the lubricant? My father was a mechanical engineer and worked for Mack Truck. We always used wax paper on the tent camper trailer hitch growing up so that is what I use now. I don't think the dry lubricants were as available back in the 70s. Have read very little about using wax paper on these posts. I usually take a square piece and fold over twice making it 4 layers thick.

[Splitshaft]

The reason there is a flat spot on the top of the hitch ball is not only to stamp the ball weight rating, it is also the reservoir to hold grease for feeding the coupling while in use. Periodically the old grease should be cleaned from the ball as it dries out and becomes contaminated. The addition of new grease is generally sufficient to keep the coupler clean and lubricated when the old grease is removed form the ball. Lubricating a ball coupling in only necessary when not lubricating the coupling would result in abrasion between the ball and coupling. When you see metal flakes or filings with wear and scuffing occurring on the ball, it is due to the lack of lubrication resulting in excessive friction causing accelerated wear.

[JoeAdkins]

I put a plastic grocery bag over it and then pull the pin and pull it out. I store it in the bag under the camper. When it's time to hook up, I put it back in and put the pin in and then pull the bag off. I dispose of the bag properly. No more greasy pants for me and my family.

[Briyoung]

I didn't read every response and it might have already been mentioned but the OP isn't talking about lubing the actual ball, he asked about the coupler. As far as that goes we use Fluid Film on just about every nut, bolt, spring etc. at work and on our TT. It's thicker and sticks around a lot longer than say WD-40 and doesn't drip everywhere, it's Lanolin based not petroleum so there is zero risk of effecting rubber seals anywhere. I've always used a liberal amount on the latch and underneath, does it collect dirt...yes but it's such a minimal amount who cares, doesn't effect the operation what so ever. Grease on ball hitches and latches, most weight distribution pivot points are more for rust prevention and keeping things a maybe bit more quiet than anything.