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Old 12-08-2017, 12:50 PM   #61
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Exhaust Emission Standards impact on current diesel engines.

These engines are being operated at a higher temp in order to burn more of the ash that results from diesel combustion. Generally speaking they are requiring the use of lower viscosity synthetic oils because engine oil is an ash source as well.


We don't know yet what these impacts may be on life of current diesel engines (well, maybe the trucking industry knows by now).

Yes, my MB is a pain in the arse, glow plugs operate continuously to preheat diesel so it comes into the combustion chambers warmer and that helps burn more of the ash, but I have had to repace two in 10,000 miles). Also my MB is insulation jacketed, upper part is, and that helps run the engine warmer to consume more ash.

Bottom line is, I will never buy another diesel engine unless or until Trump causes EPA to drop back to pre 2007 or 2008 standards. What this does to farmers and truckers and you and me is ignorant, imho...I know many are getting rid of use of DEF in states where they will not be checked. How many farmers understand DEF engine operstion? Will that tractor operate for 20 years, the normal length of time a farmer usually keeps his tractor?

I'd go with turbo gasoline engine until this DEF thing is done.
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Old 12-08-2017, 02:23 PM   #62
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I am not pulling a monster rig. But I found a 2012 1/2 ton Silverado 4 x 4 with a 6.2 gas.
It gets way better gas mileage that my old 5.3 and it has more power than I will ever need.
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Old 12-08-2017, 02:44 PM   #63
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OIL LIFE

For those of you going by the oil life monitoring system, here's a thought. The manufacturers stand by their systems. However, they only have to cover internal engine repairs until the end of the powertrain warranty. On a lot of new vehicles now that is only up to 60,000 miles. After that its your baby. If you plan on keeping your vehicle longer than that I would and do change oil more often than that. If you're going to trade or sell it by then I would save the money and only do maintenance when the system says to. The manufacturers have been trying to sell more vehicles thru the years by saying that their vehicles are cheaper to maintain. However, would you rather buy a used vehicle that only had maintenance done when it had to be done, or one that had maintenance done more often?
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Old 12-08-2017, 02:50 PM   #64
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Injectors for my 5.9 Cummins which are known trouble spots for 2003-2007 cost over $500 each just for the part. They usually don't last more than 150k per set. By the time you buy the gaskets and other recommend parts and installation you are looking at a $4500-5000 job. You could get a new crate Hemi every 150000 miles for that cost. That is on one of the most desirable diesels because of their reilalabily, is hate to have one of the bad diesels LOL!
I'm in trouble as my 05 5.9L has 180K....I think you can get a 24V 5.9L rebuilt for about 5K with some new parts. New injector set <$400 ea rebuilt half that.
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Old 12-08-2017, 02:51 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by hondo View Post
For those of you going by the oil life monitoring system, here's a thought. The manufacturers stand by their systems. However, they only have to cover internal engine repairs until the end of the powertrain warranty. On a lot of new vehicles now that is only up to 60,000 miles. After that its your baby. If you plan on keeping your vehicle longer than that I would and do change oil more often than that. If you're going to trade or sell it by then I would save the money and only do maintenance when the system says to. The manufacturers have been trying to sell more vehicles thru the years by saying that their vehicles are cheaper to maintain. However, would you rather buy a used vehicle that only had maintenance done when it had to be done, or one that had maintenance done more often?
I wouldn't change oil more often just because. I'm doing a few oil analysis' to see what I can safely do after warranty is up.
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Old 12-08-2017, 04:14 PM   #66
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Oils are much better than when the 3k (I know, nobody said 3k miles) took hold. Let alone engine component clearances and the like. It's not proof, but my Civic is 180k and been going by the computer since day 1. Zero issues with that car. The oil is rated for a heck of a lot more than what the car tells me to do.

I do appreciate the"only till warranty is up" but it's also not in their best interest to not have vehicles last as long as they can.

As an engineer, (for a tier 1, for a while) I assure you that things were designed as good as possible to meet the price point. Of course, that is a big part of it....price. Regardless, there was no "planned obsolescence" or "then they'll have to buy a new one" going on.

But we're off subject.

I "plan" to delete my 2014 duramax when it causes problems out of warranty (which is 100k miles, I believe).
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Old 12-09-2017, 02:34 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by Iwannacamp View Post
I'm in trouble as my 05 5.9L has 180K....I think you can get a 24V 5.9L rebuilt for about 5K with some new parts. New injector set <$400 ea rebuilt half that.
The Cummins fan base will tell you the rebuilt injectors are time bombs on melting a piston and destroying the block, the best deal on truly new injectors is $500 each but the manual says to install new feed tubes and a new gasket which the wiring harness is built into, much more expensive than a simple gasket. Even the "mopar" boxes injectors are not new and supposedly very problematic. Then install is at least $500 unless you are comfortable working with $3000 in new parts and a 30000 psi+ fuel system.
This is why so many people these years drop a $1000+ fuel filteration system on these years if not right off the showroom floor then the first time they get bit on injector failures.
My 2004 has 275k on it, it's not that they won't get the 500,000 miles, they just won't do it without expensive help. The pre common rail was much better and the 6.7 has gone to a new design that has a fraction of the trouble. The next time my 5.9 needs injectors I'm pulling the whole motor and replacing it with a 6.7. The beauty of these things is the Cummins controls itself pretty much, it's basically a drop in and because the image of the 5.9 is better the 6.7s out of wrecks are less expensive with lower miles, and more plentiful. Basically with selling a 5.9 core with 300,000 miles, and saving $4000 on injectors, I can have a drop in under 100,000 mile 6.7
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Old 12-11-2017, 12:24 PM   #68
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Changing Brake Fluid -- Off Topic But IMPORTANT for any TV

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That is probably a good idea but over the years I have never changed the PS or Brake fluid unless I was changing out a part. Never had an issue.


The fact that you were "changing out a part" might contradict the statement that you "Never had an issue." If you were changing out a part, you might have had an unrecognized brake fluid issue. As explained by DouglasReid, EVERYONE'S brake fluid becomes horrible over time. It is so EASY & CHEAP TO CHANGE that no rational tradeoff analysis would lead you to neglect it forever. Just look at the old stuff coming out and think about whether changing it would be worthwhile.

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Im betting if you look at your brake fluid reservoir the fluid inside is green. When it is new it is clear. The green color is algae growing in the water that has become emulsified in the fluid. Brake fluid (Dot 3 & 4 are designed to entrain the water to prevent it from forming droplets. The droplets would freeze in cold temps possibly causing blockages which could have disastrous consequences.

The water lowers the boiling point of the fluid, decreasing the braking in an emergency situation. The algae does not do the seals in the system any good at all.

a $37 tool at Harbor freight will allow you to do it by yourself in about 35 min if you have a compressor available.

Im also betting your PS/PB fluid is black. It too is clear when new. JUST like your engine and transmission oil the contaminates are not doing your power boost or power steering mechanisms any good.

I know how to flush the system on the Duramax/Allison but not on the Cummins. Im betting it is no harder than on mine, you just have to find a Cummins forum that will have a thread to teach you.

As I said, these fluids are most neglected maintenance on most vehicles because most do not understand the importance of flushing them regularly.

X2, as emphatically as possible. This is great advice, and changing these fluids is as cheap and easy as maintenance gets.
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Old 12-11-2017, 12:58 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hersbird View Post
The Cummins fan base will tell you the rebuilt injectors are time bombs on melting a piston and destroying the block, the best deal on truly new injectors is $500 each but the manual says to install new feed tubes and a new gasket which the wiring harness is built into, much more expensive than a simple gasket. Even the "mopar" boxes injectors are not new and supposedly very problematic. Then install is at least $500 unless you are comfortable working with $3000 in new parts and a 30000 psi+ fuel system.
This is why so many people these years drop a $1000+ fuel filteration system on these years if not right off the showroom floor then the first time they get bit on injector failures.
My 2004 has 275k on it, it's not that they won't get the 500,000 miles, they just won't do it without expensive help. The pre common rail was much better and the 6.7 has gone to a new design that has a fraction of the trouble. The next time my 5.9 needs injectors I'm pulling the whole motor and replacing it with a 6.7. The beauty of these things is the Cummins controls itself pretty much, it's basically a drop in and because the image of the 5.9 is better the 6.7s out of wrecks are less expensive with lower miles, and more plentiful. Basically with selling a 5.9 core with 300,000 miles, and saving $4000 on injectors, I can have a drop in under 100,000 mile 6.7
Interesting thoughts... thank you. My experience on 5.9L tells me about 350K brings failure of one sort or another. Usually piston breakage in the ring land. I don't rev mine much..so I tend to lug(6 speed) and old man driver. That makes me think I will break a piston someday(at 180K now). I run Schaeffers oil as a supplement(long story) and hope this will slow/stop wear issues..

I have not heard of the 6.7L swap and that is interesting to me.
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Old 12-11-2017, 02:24 PM   #70
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My experience with my particular 07 Duramax: only has 150k on it. Daily driver. Change oil every 5k. Tranny every 25k (we pull a lot now), diff and transfer every 50k. Only work to it has been std maintenance. At 100k replaced all belts/hoses/idlers/antifreeze. By the time it has 300k on it I'm figuring inside will be worn out and I'll get a new truck. Love the diesel.
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Old 12-11-2017, 10:48 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow Moon View Post
The fact that you were "changing out a part" might contradict the statement that you "Never had an issue." If you were changing out a part, you might have had an unrecognized brake fluid issue. As explained by DouglasReid, EVERYONE'S brake fluid becomes horrible over time. It is so EASY & CHEAP TO CHANGE that no rational tradeoff analysis would lead you to neglect it forever. Just look at the old stuff coming out and think about whether changing it would be worthwhile.
X2, as emphatically as possible. This is great advice, and changing these fluids is as cheap and easy as maintenance gets.
No contradiction.... the last brake part(other than shoes or pads) I changed out was a dry rotted rubber brake hose on a 1986 Mustang. Not a brake fluid issue just old age........ and that was in 2002. I did change out all of the brake hoses and cylinders on the 1966 but that was in 1985 since it had been sitting for 10 years......... Never changed it on any of my trucks or daily drivers.......... but I only drive 35,000 to 40,000 plus miles a year. Mine always looks clear........
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Old 12-12-2017, 12:08 AM   #72
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No contradiction.... the last brake part(other than shoes or pads) I changed out was a dry rotted rubber brake hose on a 1986 Mustang. Not a brake fluid issue just old age........ and that was in 2002. I did change out all of the brake hoses and cylinders on the 1966 but that was in 1985 since it had been sitting for 10 years......... Never changed it on any of my trucks or daily drivers.......... but I only drive 35,000 to 40,000 plus miles a year. Mine always looks clear........
OK, I don't know how you do it (prevent moisture from entering your system), but you win. I stand corrected and hereby change my suggestion that "EVERYONE'S brake fluid becomes horrible over time." Please change it to now read "EVERYONE'S except Oaklevel's brake fluid becomes horrible over time."

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Old 12-12-2017, 04:55 AM   #73
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OK, I don't know how you do it (prevent moisture from entering your system), but you win. I stand corrected and hereby change my suggestion that "EVERYONE'S brake fluid becomes horrible over time." Please change it to now read "EVERYONE'S except Oaklevel's brake fluid becomes horrible over time."

Party On
The system is closed but........... I am not the only one that does not change their brake fluid or have issues from it , (we will leave it at .....) the place that I work for 25 years has 10 vehicles in my office and probably thousands more. Just because you do or do not do it does not make it right either way................ but .............. .................

Now back to our regularly scheduled program...................


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Old 12-12-2017, 10:32 AM   #74
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The system is closed but........... I am not the only one that does not change their brake fluid or have issues from it , (we will leave it at .....) the place that I work for 25 years has 10 vehicles in my office and probably thousands more. Just because you do or do not do it does not make it right either way................ but .............. .................

Now back to our regularly scheduled program...................


On my '02 Ram 1500 I had to change the fluid every 2 years as it would turn dark fast and become extremely stiff in the dead of winter (-30C and below) if I didn't. I'll do it every few years on this truck just to be safe, although Ram doesn't ask for it. My wife's VW requires it every 2-3 years, as does my Triumph motorcycle. If you're not having problems, don't worry about it.
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Old 12-12-2017, 10:47 AM   #75
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Brake fluid only needs to be replaced if your closed system is faulty and lets in moisture, or the fluid was super heated which also indicates some sort of problem. Best thing is to have a trusted professional test it. I only own Chevys and have never had to change any brake fluid, and my oldest truck is now 40 years old. Jiffy Lube had a big push a few years back on brake fluid changes. But they also offered a testing service first. They rarely had to change any, so ended the push. Also a woman's group got after them for pushing unnecessary services........
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Old 12-12-2017, 10:50 AM   #76
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I never saw any compensation/credit for the increased fuel mileage on the diesel. I can only speak from the Dodge standpoint. I have have 2 different 5.9 gassers...one was TBI and one TPI(Magnum) and both got about 13 MPG highway...both with 4:10 gears. I have had 2 different 5.9L diesels... one 12V and one 24V. The 24V gets better MPG than the 12V and both got pretty good...18-19 MPG driving 65 or less and of course highway MPG. YMMV

The old Dodge gassers were notoriously inefficient. You're comparing one of the worst mileage gas engines to one of the best mileage diesels, the 5.9 Cummins. Having owned 2 3.5L F150 Ecoboost trucks and 2 different 6.7 Ford F250 PSD, I can tell you that my overall mileage was within an MPG or so. This was with ~20% of my mileage towing. Same type of driving and same type of loads. Newer gas engines have become more efficient while the diesels have become less. With the typical cost of gas being less than diesel, I think I'd have needed to be towing close to 50% of the time before I saw any fuel savings with the diesel. This doesn't take into account the additional maintenance and DEF for the diesel, either.
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Old 12-12-2017, 11:04 AM   #77
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You never choose diesel or gas for pulling RVs based on mpg. If fuel costs are a deciding factor then you have the wrong hobby
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Old 12-12-2017, 12:24 PM   #78
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Back to OP question. If you read your manuals that come with your particular truck it states that if vehicle is in extreme conditions more frequent maintenance is required. I have only owned gassers and do not see a diesel in my future any time soon. I would say towing meets this requirement and so I prefer to change oil & filter at 5000 miles. Cost around $54 and I do my own. So with my driving around 10,000 a year I do twice. I do not see a cheaper price for maintenance on a diesel . Diesels need to be driven a considerable distance every time you start up and not just a round trip of 10 miles to store. My truck is not a daily driver and is used just for towing my camper and once in a while a run to Lowe's other than that it sets after camping season or between camping trips.

Based on cost of diesel and the maintenance I could not justify and recoup my money. Later RJD
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Old 12-12-2017, 12:28 PM   #79
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Back to OP question. If you read your manuals that come with your particular truck it states that if vehicle is in extreme conditions more frequent maintenance is required. I have only owned gassers and do not see a diesel in my future any time soon. I would say towing meets this requirement and so I prefer to change oil & filter at 5000 miles. Cost around $54 and I do my own. So with my driving around 10,000 a year I do twice. I do not see a cheaper price for maintenance on a diesel . Diesels need to be driven a considerable distance every time you start up and not just a round trip of 10 miles to store. My truck is not a daily driver and is used just for towing my camper and once in a while a run to Lowe's other than that it sets after camping season or between camping trips.

Based on cost of diesel and the maintenance I could not justify and recoup my money. Later RJD
With all due respect, that's not correct. In summer we tow, in winter my truck is my daily driver. Lots of idling as it's always below freezing all winter, lots of short trips (2-3kms each way) to work with no issues. I'm not saying it's ideal, but they do just fine.
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Old 12-12-2017, 12:32 PM   #80
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Diesels need to be driven a considerable distance every time you start up and not just a round trip of 10 miles to store.
Myth. I don't know if this statement was even true for older diesels, but certainly not for modern trucks. My family owns at least 10 diesels and they are all daily drivers.
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