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Old 10-08-2012, 01:45 PM   #11
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Well according to the "Ford specs" Column... My truck would have a rear axel rating of 6,200 lbs..SO .. what... do i add or subtract from that amount ?? ..and according to the "payload selector " it seems my truck is actually rated for 3,900 lbs
You would subtract the actual rear axle weight of your truck loaded, ready to camp. If your RAWR is 6200 lbs and by the scale it actually weighs 3200 lbs., you have 3000 lbs of payload available for pin weight before you exceed the rear axle weight rating, RAWR.

If your truck's GVWR is 10000 lbs and by the scale it actually weighs 8000 lbs ready to camp, you have 2000 lbs of payload capacity available for pin weight before you exceed the trucks GVWR.

I'm not saying whether it right or wrong, but there's lots of people towing with 3/4 ton trucks where they're exceeding the truck's GVWR but under the RAWR.

It's good to use actual, scaled weight to determine available payload as it's a 'real' number...not some BS number with a 150 lb driver and no options.

Dave
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:16 PM   #12
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You would subtract the actual rear axle weight of your truck loaded, ready to camp. If your RAWR is 6200 lbs and by the scale it actually weighs 3200 lbs., you have 3000 lbs of payload available for pin weight before you exceed the rear axle weight rating, RAWR.

If your truck's GVWR is 10000 lbs and by the scale it actually weighs 8000 lbs ready to camp, you have 2000 lbs of payload capacity available for pin weight before you exceed the trucks GVWR.

I'm not saying whether it right or wrong, but there's lots of people towing with 3/4 ton trucks where they're exceeding the truck's GVWR but under the RAWR.

It's good to use actual, scaled weight to determine available payload as it's a 'real' number...not some BS number with a 150 lb driver and no options.

Dave

X-2 Weigh it !!! Then do the calculations. Here's a good link for You.
CAT Scale costs about $10.00.
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:21 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Dave_Monica View Post
I'm not saying whether it right or wrong, but there's lots of people towing with 3/4 ton trucks where they're exceeding the truck's GVWR but under the RAWR.

It's good to use actual, scaled weight to determine available payload as it's a 'real' number...not some BS number with a 150 lb driver and no options.
Dave
Oh, I have lots more room on my axle's max weight; however while the axle may not snap, my frame just might.
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:35 PM   #14
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Oh, I have lots more room on my axle's max weight; however while the axle may not snap, my frame just might.

Yep, IT's easy to say " I think we can take just one more thing" and one leads to another and before you know it we're over the limit. IMAGINE THAT!!
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Old 10-08-2012, 03:03 PM   #15
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Moved Rockwood06 to his own thread
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:38 PM   #16
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It sounds like you have already made your mind up.Just do what feels right for you and the safety of your family and others. IMHO I would not push the truck to far over the MFGS. recommendations. As far as fuel economy, yours it's fantastic. I prefer a rear axle ratio of at least 3.73 I think the truck works much easier for me... less strain on OLD MAX when towing and decent fuel economy towing. Since OLD MAX is not a daily driver it works for me.

The other thing did you mention the loaded weight of your coach ? I may have missed it. Again do your homework and do what feels good for you. Just my OPINION.
my present 5th wheel is 7,700 lbs dry weight .. probably loaded at 9,000 lbs ?? Have never been to the scales yet...
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:04 PM   #17
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my present 5th wheel is 7,700 lbs dry weight .. probably loaded at 9,000 lbs ?? Have never been to the scales yet...
.. and... i would not say that i have made my mind up...Just trying to get the facts..if...we should ever go with a 3 or 4 slide -out 5th wheel in the future
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:24 PM   #18
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.. and... i would not say that i have made my mind up...Just trying to get the facts..if...we should ever go with a 3 or 4 slide -out 5th wheel in the future
I hope you've gotten some good info to help you make your decision. It might be a good idea to research a couple 5'vrs you like and with that info see if the 5'vr matches up with the capacity of your truck. I think with weighing your truck with all your gear and knowing what 5'vr you want, do the calculations and that should put things in perspective for you. Don't forget to add some extra weight for gear, food,cloths, and all those things you put in the trailer. I know it was an education for me when I first started my research for my trailers.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:54 AM   #19
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I've read lots of threads now about tow capacities, etc. I'm racking my brain and can't for the life of me remember ever seeing anyone actually break an axle, frame, etc. Has anyone else??? I live in a rural area and trucks are routinely severely overloaded doing farm work around here. I personally know of a 96 F350 hauling a load of logs on a 30ft dovetail that weighed in right at 24,000lbs. I also know of a gentleman running a lawn service using an old Chevy S10 towing a heavy duty 16 foot flatbed loaded with lawn equipment. He has so much tongue weight his truck is almost popping a wheelie(He's been doing this for years, too). My point isn't that it is safe to overload your vehicle- I'm just trying to point out that, IMHO, the risk is not in "breaking" the vehicle(at least not a frame or axle). It boils down to can you stop fast enough, can you maintain control of the rig if maneuvering quickly, can you maintain enough speed to not hinder other drivers without frying a transmission, are you able to maintain control in the event of a blowout, etc.(I fully understand the the ratings on the vehicle have a direct impact on these issues- but these issues all are tremendously impacted by driver ability as well) None of the ratings take into account driver experience or ability. There are people out there that don't need to tow a grey tank to the dump station, much less a 10,000 lb camper. I think by suggesting you are "safe" as long as you are within load ratings is missing a huge piece of the pie. I know for arguments sake we are only addressing the issue of the TV, but let's not forget about what I consider to be even more important- the driver. Also, none of the published ratings take into account road conditions. Given a certain load, I'd feel much more comfortable with less truck on a flat straight road as opposed to a mountain road. I guess my main point is that TV ratings are not the be all end all of safe towing. Don't overestimate your ability as a driver and consider your terrain as well.
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:12 AM   #20
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Results of quick search

There were also several videos on youtube of spectacular frame fails from overloading and drag racing (multiple frame flex events).
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