Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-11-2016, 07:54 AM   #1
Camp Bartender
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: York, PA
Posts: 265
Mopar Trailer Brake Controller

Does anyone or has anyone used their stock mopar trailer brake controller? I have a 2013 Ram and want to have the OEM one integrated into the dash, Its a very clean look. Anyone have any issues with them? I have a 2015 Wildwood 28DBUD, I'm sure it will work with my braking system on it. (I assume anyways)
__________________

__________________
2013 Dodge Ram 1500 Express, 5.7L HEMI
2015 Forest River Wildwood 28DBUD

2015: 7 Trips, 20 Nights Camped
2016: 7 Trips, 23 Nights Camped
2017: 5 Trips, 15 Nights Camped (so far)
stevensmith2859 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2016, 08:04 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,101
I have a 2013 1500 with it. Tow a Vibe 6501. I have had no issues with it. Controls the trailer better than the prodigy P2 controller I had. In slow traffic I would find the prodigy would grab but the OEM is smother.
__________________

__________________
Ontario

Vibe 6501
1 Prospector Canoe
2 Mtn. Bikes
4 Hiking Boots
Happy Vibe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2016, 08:04 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
JustB_Rad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 674
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevensmith2859 View Post
Does anyone or has anyone used their stock mopar trailer brake controller? I have a 2013 Ram and want to have the OEM one integrated into the dash, Its a very clean look. Anyone have any issues with them? I have a 2015 Wildwood 28DBUD, I'm sure it will work with my braking system on it. (I assume anyways)
I have a 14 Ram and the stock controller works fine towing our 26 Ft Grey Wolf. I've heard that there have been some problems with the 2015's that they aren't supplying enough juice to the brakes to apply the displayed power, but haven't had it happen on my 14.
__________________
2016 Grey Wolf 26DBH following a 2014 RAM 1500 Outdoorsman

Life is good...Live it!
Nights Camped - (2014) - 16 in 6 trips (2015) - 20 in 6 trips
(2016) - 21 in 7 trips
(2017) - 12 in 3 and going seasonal for at least the rest of the year!
JustB_Rad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2016, 09:46 AM   #4
Usually Confused Member
 
emm-dee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,604
Your question has a two word answer....do it.

The Ram controller is far superior to any aftermarket controller available. I cannot speak about the Ford or GM controllers but I'm pretty sure they operate the same way. The difference between the OEM and aftermarket has to do with how the system determines how much voltage is sent to the brakes. Although there may be aftermarket controllers that vary the voltage based on the brake pedal position (or the pressure being applied to the brake pedal) I couldn't find one. Plus, there's no way the installation could be as clean and easy as the OEM.

The way the OEM works is as you apply pedal pressure the voltage is sent to the brakes based on how much pressure there is. The system works the same if you are driving at 60 mph or sitting still with the truck in park. You get a visual display on the truck EVIC display (the little screen between the tach and speedometer). Most, if not all, aftermarket controllers (there are some good ones) vary the voltage from information derived from some sort of accelerometer or pendulum. They have to feel deceleration "G" forces in order to work, unless you physically move the manual controller on the box, and that box is going to constantly banging into your leg as you enter/exit the vehicle.

The OEM controller (Ram part number 82213474, about $250 or so) connects directly to two existing wiring plug fittings. One fitting goes to the controller (completely hidden from view after installation) and the other to the dash controller set device mounted below the radio screen. It's a simple plug and play process. There is a very good YouTube video show how to install the controller at . This video mentions ignoring the "third" screw installation and that's a good idea. It is impossible to get a tool onto the screw unless you dismantle the entire dash assembly, and it really is not needed. The other two screws are sufficient to hold the controller mounting bracket. The only thing I would add to the video instructions is to apply a little bit of blue LockTite to the screws. Once you install the controller there is no reason to ever remove it (unless it completely dies...unlikely).

The entire install process will take 30 minutes if you've never done it before. If you're familiar with removing the facia panels surrounding the radio display and lower kick panel then the controller install time is about 15 minutes or less. There are YouTube videos explaining how to remove the facia panels.

After you complete the installation the first thing you'll see is the "check engine" warning symbol. Don't worry...that's normal. The truck computer sees that you have added something to the system but it doesn't know what you added. It doesn't affect any other operation or system on the truck. After the install you'll have to visit your friendly Ram dealer to have them program the truck computer. It depends on your negotiating skills but they charge anywhere from $0 to $100 to do this. They use their proprietary system to access your VIN in factory computer. Once they've told the factory system you have the brake controller they will plug a laptop into your truck and the updated status will be programmed to your computer. If you dealer is not completely familiar with the process (some may have never done it) just tell them to program the code XHC into the system.

Once that is done, you go to the settings screen on your U-Connect 5.0 or 8.4 radio, scroll down to the trailer settings and select either "Light Electric, Heavy Electric, Light Electric over Hydraulic, or Heavy Electric over Hydraulic". I've never been able to find the difference between light or heavy and my trailer seems to react the same way regardless of what is chosen. Once you've chosen your setting you can use the steering wheel control to display "Trailer" on the EVIC. If you don't have a trailer connected to the 7-way and you move the manual slider on the lower dash the display will show "No Trailer Connected". If you have a trailer connected and it still give you that message then you know there is a problem with the trailer brakes (improper connection, bad ground, etc etc). Also, using the "up/down" buttons on the steering wheel will give you a separate odometer to show you how many miles are being put on the trailer (you can reset it to zero if you want to show trip mileage with trailer connected). The +/- buttons on the slider control below the radio give you an instant display of the setting regardless or what view is selected on the EVIC.

An added note: If you don't have a backup camera installed in your tailgate yet, ask the dealer to add the code XAC at the same time they add the brake controller code. They probably won't charge any more for that because there's no additional work on their part. Then, if you ever decide to install a camera in the tailgate latch it will immediately start working and you won't have to return to the dealer for more programming. The tailgate camera is really nice to see the trailer hitch ball as you connect it. If the code is programmed but no camera installed you just get a blank display on the U-Connect whenever you select reverse. Doesn't hurt anything.
__________________
At some point during every day you suddenly realize nothing else productive is going to happen the rest of that day. For me, it usually occurs around 9 am.

Vengeance 25V (the Harley needed a home)
emm-dee is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2016, 10:02 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
ryand's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Metro St. Louis Area
Posts: 1,190
My 2011 did not come with one but after researching it, I found that i could add it myself as the wiring was already in place. I never had it flashed to show up on the dash but the it functioned just like any other controller.
__________________
2011 Coachmen Catalina 28DDS
2015 Ram Bighorn 2500 6.4L
http://www.ryandethrow.wordpress.com
Nights Camped 2016: 32
ryand is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2016, 10:19 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
RSchleder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,277
My 2015 Ram has the integrated brake controller and it work really well. I've had 2 aftermarket controllers in two previous trucks and the integrated unit beats either of them hands down. Smooth operation, trouble free, and reliable. GO for it!!!
__________________
Days camping (2016)----181 days
Days camping (2017) --- 82 days
2016 Wildcat MAXX 28RKX (33' TT), 2007 13' Scamp
2015 Ram Laramie Hemi, w/air suspension
30 years RV'ing
12 different RV's
RSchleder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2016, 12:21 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 103
my 2015 works good but i have had to up the percent didn't have to on the other years
__________________
locogk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2016, 01:55 PM   #8
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: East Texas
Posts: 11
brake controller

Our integrated brake controller on our 2016 Ram Eco diesel 1500 works great on our 2015 Wildwood 27RKSS trailer. We pulled it with a 2012 Ram Hemi before with an after market controller and the factory one works so much better then any controller we have ever own.
__________________
tfdoug is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2016, 02:46 PM   #9
Camp Bartender
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: York, PA
Posts: 265
Thank you EVERYONE!


Looks like my decision has been made! That and I really dig the nice clean installation of it being in the dash instead of a knee knocker like was on my Avalanche.
__________________
2013 Dodge Ram 1500 Express, 5.7L HEMI
2015 Forest River Wildwood 28DBUD

2015: 7 Trips, 20 Nights Camped
2016: 7 Trips, 23 Nights Camped
2017: 5 Trips, 15 Nights Camped (so far)
stevensmith2859 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2016, 02:51 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 322
And for an alternative...



I found this Tekonsha P3 for close to half the price of the OEM plus had no fees to pay to dealer for software config. The Ram specific connector was truly plug and play...cost about $20 extra. Installation about 30 minutes. No leg banging...easy access to manual brake control...smooth as silk...can't imagine another controller being smoother. Worked as advertised 2 weeks ago with an emergency stop from 60 mph in the rain...straight and true and powerful. Plus I can move it to a new vehicle when the time comes.

Someone mentioned the OEM was "far superior"...I definitely disagree.
__________________

__________________
2016 Microlite 21DS
2014 Ram 1500 QC 6 cyl. 8 spd.
Blue Ox SwayPro
windsurfdog is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
brake control, controller, trailer, brakes

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:23 AM.