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Old 02-11-2016, 07:54 AM   #1
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Mopar Trailer Brake Controller

Does anyone or has anyone used their stock mopar trailer brake controller? I have a 2013 Ram and want to have the OEM one integrated into the dash, Its a very clean look. Anyone have any issues with them? I have a 2015 Wildwood 28DBUD, I'm sure it will work with my braking system on it. (I assume anyways)
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Old 02-11-2016, 08:04 AM   #2
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I have a 2013 1500 with it. Tow a Vibe 6501. I have had no issues with it. Controls the trailer better than the prodigy P2 controller I had. In slow traffic I would find the prodigy would grab but the OEM is smother.
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Old 02-11-2016, 08:04 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevensmith2859 View Post
Does anyone or has anyone used their stock mopar trailer brake controller? I have a 2013 Ram and want to have the OEM one integrated into the dash, Its a very clean look. Anyone have any issues with them? I have a 2015 Wildwood 28DBUD, I'm sure it will work with my braking system on it. (I assume anyways)
I have a 14 Ram and the stock controller works fine towing our 26 Ft Grey Wolf. I've heard that there have been some problems with the 2015's that they aren't supplying enough juice to the brakes to apply the displayed power, but haven't had it happen on my 14.
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Old 02-11-2016, 09:46 AM   #4
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Your question has a two word answer....do it.

The Ram controller is far superior to any aftermarket controller available. I cannot speak about the Ford or GM controllers but I'm pretty sure they operate the same way. The difference between the OEM and aftermarket has to do with how the system determines how much voltage is sent to the brakes. Although there may be aftermarket controllers that vary the voltage based on the brake pedal position (or the pressure being applied to the brake pedal) I couldn't find one. Plus, there's no way the installation could be as clean and easy as the OEM.

The way the OEM works is as you apply pedal pressure the voltage is sent to the brakes based on how much pressure there is. The system works the same if you are driving at 60 mph or sitting still with the truck in park. You get a visual display on the truck EVIC display (the little screen between the tach and speedometer). Most, if not all, aftermarket controllers (there are some good ones) vary the voltage from information derived from some sort of accelerometer or pendulum. They have to feel deceleration "G" forces in order to work, unless you physically move the manual controller on the box, and that box is going to constantly banging into your leg as you enter/exit the vehicle.

The OEM controller (Ram part number 82213474, about $250 or so) connects directly to two existing wiring plug fittings. One fitting goes to the controller (completely hidden from view after installation) and the other to the dash controller set device mounted below the radio screen. It's a simple plug and play process. There is a very good YouTube video show how to install the controller at . This video mentions ignoring the "third" screw installation and that's a good idea. It is impossible to get a tool onto the screw unless you dismantle the entire dash assembly, and it really is not needed. The other two screws are sufficient to hold the controller mounting bracket. The only thing I would add to the video instructions is to apply a little bit of blue LockTite to the screws. Once you install the controller there is no reason to ever remove it (unless it completely dies...unlikely).

The entire install process will take 30 minutes if you've never done it before. If you're familiar with removing the facia panels surrounding the radio display and lower kick panel then the controller install time is about 15 minutes or less. There are YouTube videos explaining how to remove the facia panels.

After you complete the installation the first thing you'll see is the "check engine" warning symbol. Don't worry...that's normal. The truck computer sees that you have added something to the system but it doesn't know what you added. It doesn't affect any other operation or system on the truck. After the install you'll have to visit your friendly Ram dealer to have them program the truck computer. It depends on your negotiating skills but they charge anywhere from $0 to $100 to do this. They use their proprietary system to access your VIN in factory computer. Once they've told the factory system you have the brake controller they will plug a laptop into your truck and the updated status will be programmed to your computer. If you dealer is not completely familiar with the process (some may have never done it) just tell them to program the code XHC into the system.

Once that is done, you go to the settings screen on your U-Connect 5.0 or 8.4 radio, scroll down to the trailer settings and select either "Light Electric, Heavy Electric, Light Electric over Hydraulic, or Heavy Electric over Hydraulic". I've never been able to find the difference between light or heavy and my trailer seems to react the same way regardless of what is chosen. Once you've chosen your setting you can use the steering wheel control to display "Trailer" on the EVIC. If you don't have a trailer connected to the 7-way and you move the manual slider on the lower dash the display will show "No Trailer Connected". If you have a trailer connected and it still give you that message then you know there is a problem with the trailer brakes (improper connection, bad ground, etc etc). Also, using the "up/down" buttons on the steering wheel will give you a separate odometer to show you how many miles are being put on the trailer (you can reset it to zero if you want to show trip mileage with trailer connected). The +/- buttons on the slider control below the radio give you an instant display of the setting regardless or what view is selected on the EVIC.

An added note: If you don't have a backup camera installed in your tailgate yet, ask the dealer to add the code XAC at the same time they add the brake controller code. They probably won't charge any more for that because there's no additional work on their part. Then, if you ever decide to install a camera in the tailgate latch it will immediately start working and you won't have to return to the dealer for more programming. The tailgate camera is really nice to see the trailer hitch ball as you connect it. If the code is programmed but no camera installed you just get a blank display on the U-Connect whenever you select reverse. Doesn't hurt anything.
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Old 02-11-2016, 10:02 AM   #5
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My 2011 did not come with one but after researching it, I found that i could add it myself as the wiring was already in place. I never had it flashed to show up on the dash but the it functioned just like any other controller.
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Old 02-11-2016, 10:19 AM   #6
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My 2015 Ram has the integrated brake controller and it work really well. I've had 2 aftermarket controllers in two previous trucks and the integrated unit beats either of them hands down. Smooth operation, trouble free, and reliable. GO for it!!!
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Old 02-11-2016, 12:21 PM   #7
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my 2015 works good but i have had to up the percent didn't have to on the other years
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Old 02-11-2016, 01:55 PM   #8
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brake controller

Our integrated brake controller on our 2016 Ram Eco diesel 1500 works great on our 2015 Wildwood 27RKSS trailer. We pulled it with a 2012 Ram Hemi before with an after market controller and the factory one works so much better then any controller we have ever own.
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Old 02-11-2016, 02:46 PM   #9
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Thank you EVERYONE!


Looks like my decision has been made! That and I really dig the nice clean installation of it being in the dash instead of a knee knocker like was on my Avalanche.
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Old 02-11-2016, 02:51 PM   #10
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And for an alternative...



I found this Tekonsha P3 for close to half the price of the OEM plus had no fees to pay to dealer for software config. The Ram specific connector was truly plug and play...cost about $20 extra. Installation about 30 minutes. No leg banging...easy access to manual brake control...smooth as silk...can't imagine another controller being smoother. Worked as advertised 2 weeks ago with an emergency stop from 60 mph in the rain...straight and true and powerful. Plus I can move it to a new vehicle when the time comes.

Someone mentioned the OEM was "far superior"...I definitely disagree.
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Old 02-11-2016, 04:27 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Vibe View Post
I have a 2013 1500 with it. Tow a Vibe 6501. I have had no issues with it. Controls the trailer better than the prodigy P2 controller I had. In slow traffic I would find the prodigy would grab but the OEM is smother.
Off topic:
Did you have the boost turned on with the Prodigy (b1, b2, or b3)? That sends voltage to the trailer brakes as soon as you touch the brakes. Personally, I like to feel the trailer leading the braking event, so I leave it on b1.
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Old 02-11-2016, 05:30 PM   #12
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I agree that if you have the option of using an integrated controller, it's as good or better than the best aftermarket solution. It will cost you significantly more (about double), compared to the Tekonsha-Prodigy P2 or P3.

However:
1. These integrated systems must us a lot more than just pressure. I know for certain that the "Trailer Sway Control" systems have been tied into the stability control for many years now, which uses wheel speed sensors, accelerometers, yaw sensors, etc. With all of those sensors available to the engineers, it would be foolish not to use them. it is very likely that deceleration data is the primary input (just like a good aftermarket unit), with pressure and other inputs being analyzed concurrently, to inform the CPU of special situations (like an ABS event, etc).

2. The performance (measured in stopping distance) will not be far superior to a good, aftermarket, accelerometer-based controller, like the Tekonsha-Prodigy P2 or P3. Again, it will be as good or better. But if both systems are set up with equal care, you will not see significant differences in stopping distance.
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Old 02-11-2016, 06:21 PM   #13
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It was not 100% apples to apples as the prodigy was in a minivan and the OEM is in the ram. But I did have to change the setting more on the prodigy than I have with the OEM.
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Old 02-11-2016, 07:19 PM   #14
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Emm-dee said it all.

We have a '13 Silverado with integrated brake controller and won't buy another TV without it. We will be adding one to our 2500TS on a Ford E-450 chassis. This is one of the best bargains available for a TV.
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Old 02-11-2016, 07:29 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrakeman View Post
I agree that if you have the option of using an integrated controller, it's as good or better than the best aftermarket solution. It will cost you significantly more (about double), compared to the Tekonsha-Prodigy P2 or P3.

However:
1. These integrated systems must us a lot more than just pressure. I know for certain that the "Trailer Sway Control" systems have been tied into the stability control for many years now, which uses wheel speed sensors, accelerometers, yaw sensors, etc. With all of those sensors available to the engineers, it would be foolish not to use them. it is very likely that deceleration data is the primary input (just like a good aftermarket unit), with pressure and other inputs being analyzed concurrently, to inform the CPU of special situations (like an ABS event, etc).

2. The performance (measured in stopping distance) will not be far superior to a good, aftermarket, accelerometer-based controller, like the Tekonsha-Prodigy P2 or P3. Again, it will be as good or better. But if both systems are set up with equal care, you will not see significant differences in stopping distance.
Good post, but I'm not sure about primary input being deceleration data. Watch the "slider" display and it is directly proportional to the amount of brake pedal movement and pressure being applied. Whether sitting still or moving down the road when you barely touch the brake pedal (just enough to activate the brake lights, meaning not much) there will be a small amount of voltage sent to the brakes. However, that same pressure will not be adequate to activate any of the vehicle hydraulic brake cylinders.

I had the Prodigy in my previous Ram and it was a great unit. Worked smooth and accurately all the time. If one does a really fast (panic?) stop then both systems are going to send all the power they can to the trailer brakes. The trailer brakes don't care how the power is getting there. They only see full power and do their best to lock up the wheels. We don't do panic stops very often. However, the integrated controller, under normal driving conditions, shines because of its smoothness. That feature was very noticeable to me when I went from the prodigy to the integrated.

I have developed the habit with both controllers to set the brake power setting very high when traveling at interstate speeds. I rarely need brakes under that condition except when I exit, and it's just automatic for me to reduce the power just prior to exiting. But, if I need aggressive braking then I prefer the trailer brakes lead the truck so they pull it. Much less chance of a jack knife. Pretty sure the Prodigy is just as effective at that.
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Old 02-12-2016, 01:41 AM   #16
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My 2012 Ram 2500 OEM TBC was faulty right out of the gate. Truck was less than a week old and the TBC didn't work. Got a new one under warranty and it's no better. I've towed two trailers with the Ram. A TT and a 5th wheel. The TT worked great with the prior truck, a 2010 F150. Smooth as silk. Then I bought the Ram and couldn't get the TT brakes to work right. Bought a Tekonsha IQ. Now the TT brakes worked great. Sold the TT and bought our current 5th wheel. Same thing. The OEM TBC doesn't work as well as the Tekonsha.
Go over to the Cummins diesel forum and read about the guys having trouble with their TBCs. Not that many but enough that it seems to be an issue for some.
I even tried going from the Light to Heavy setting and no change.

The biggest issue is in town. It feels like the trailer brakes aren't even their. The truck has to do most of the stopping. I recently read that under a certain speed Ram has dialed in the voltage to be low. That seems to be what's causing the TBC to not work right in town.
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Old 02-12-2016, 10:28 AM   #17
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emm-dee,
I work in the braking industry, and I don't agree with a few of your statements. But I won't continue arguing.

Would I check the integrated option on my next tow vehicle, if available? Yes. It looks better in the cab, and will work at least as well as the Prodigy.

Would I spend $250 to update my existing vehicle, if it were available? No way. That's how well my Prodigy has functioned on 2 trailers and 3 tow vehicles since 2003.
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Old 02-12-2016, 09:11 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by thebrakeman View Post
emm-dee,
I work in the braking industry, and I don't agree with a few of your statements. But I won't continue arguing.

Would I check the integrated option on my next tow vehicle, if available? Yes. It looks better in the cab, and will work at least as well as the Prodigy.

Would I spend $250 to update my existing vehicle, if it were available? No way. That's how well my Prodigy has functioned on 2 trailers and 3 tow vehicles since 2003.
Oh, it's not an argument. The best thing about this forum for me is all the information I've been able to get.

My original information about the integrated controller came from a Ram factory service rep. When I originally purchased the truck it did not have the controller, even though it had the so-called tow package. I intended to install the Prodigy and while I was asking a service manager about how to locate the wiring needed to connect it the factory rep told me about the IBC. That's where I learned from him about the brake pedal pressure activation rather than deceleration activation.

The only reason I purchased the Ram system and later sold the Prodigy for $100 was the clean installation, meaning nothing showing except the +/- and slider controls below the U-connect. I just don't like anything attached to the the interior. That's why I use a WiFi observation camera with viewing via the iPhone sitting in front of the tachometer---nothing restricting the view out the windshield. I have another Prodigy in my '03 Cummins Ram and definitely notice it's just not as smooth as the IBC in the '14, although it works very, very well. I might add that compared to the Reese brake controllers I was using ten years ago the Prodigy is heaven in an electronic box.

In a related matter, in your unedited post you mentioned that if the anti-skid started working on the truck and the trailer had more braking power than the truck there could be a jack-knife situation. That confuses me because I've always heard that a jack-knife situation occurs when the trailer is pushing the truck. Even with anti-skid in operation wouldn't it be better if the trailer was pulling back on the truck? Coming from an aviation background where we intentionally used anti skid on a regular basis I am not impressed at all with the operation of the systems used on our cars and trucks. Please enlighten me on how or why the trailer should have less braking in that situation because I just don't understand it.
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Old 02-12-2016, 09:33 PM   #19
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Don't care what truck you have as long as the newer type with the available brake controller installed they can't be beat they are great. Later RJD
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Old 02-13-2016, 07:04 AM   #20
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The built in controller is great, I'm able to program each of my trailers in the control and select the trailer we are using without reprogramming the weight from light to heavy.
Also having the dash display makes it easy to see your adjustments.



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