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Old 05-24-2016, 10:40 PM   #21
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We've made reservations at Pettit Jean the first week of July. So far, our trips have only been about 30 miles so this trip will be our longest at about 113 miles. I planned to exit I-40 at Morrilton and come in to Pettit Jean from the East side. The lady I made the reservation with said that road is sort of steep but no one seems to have any trouble. Maybe I should have asked how is the descent. What kind of grade do you think it is and how long is the climb? I have the "M" gear but never knew what it was. I'll have to get my truck manual out on how to use it.
It pales in comparison to some of the passes I've driven over out west (in a car). I'd guesstimate it's 2-4 miles on a two-lane with one switchback, which is the part you want to take real slow. I really have no idea about grade. The last thing I want to do is discourage you. I'm a novice and that was my first time. If I can do it, you can too. Just follow the advice here and downshift, and it probably won't be as big an "oh, crap!" moment as it was for me. I probably exaggerated a bit in my original post I've been known to do that.

By the way, Petit Jean State Park is very nice if you haven't been there before. Highly recommend the hike down into Cedar Creek Canyon. Beautiful!
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:46 PM   #22
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Beautiful trip US 160 from St Louis to Las Vegas. My 1st trip pulling a 30' TT with a gasser SUV up and especially down Wolf Creek Pass was ~~let's say exciting.
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Old 05-24-2016, 11:00 PM   #23
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Great! Thanks for letting me know that. So basically, putting the truck in tow/haul isn't enough. I still need to downshift with the gear shifter on the steering column?

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You didn't say which year/model Ram you have. If you have the HP70 8-speed transmission with the hockey puck selector, pressing the "minus" button on the steering wheel will lock it in the selected gear (shown on the EVIC display). If the rpm's go over 4,000 you probably need to use just a little brake to get below that number. I can hold 55-60 on a 6% downhill with hardly any brake towing 7,000 pounds.
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Old 05-24-2016, 11:06 PM   #24
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gspot01,
Thanks, we are new also and I get white knuckles just getting out of town still. We are looking forward to going there. We were lucky I think to get #16 which has a lake view. Good luck on your trip West.
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Old 05-25-2016, 05:48 AM   #25
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gspot01,
Thanks, we are new also and I get white knuckles just getting out of town still. We are looking forward to going there. We were lucky I think to get #16 which has a lake view. Good luck on your trip West.
Yes, you were lucky! Those lakeview sites are in Section A and are very hard to come by unless you book well in advance. You'll enjoy that!

Emm-dee, it's a 5.7l Hemi 6-speed 4x4. It's got the +/- buttons on the gearshift to lock it into lower gears.

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Old 05-26-2016, 09:59 AM   #26
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This is what I do when I'm coming down a steep mountain, I set the cruise at the speed at what I want to come down safely, then I put the truck in tow/haul with the engine brake on. When I get to the bottom I'm going at the speed I set the cruise at and I have never touched the brake. I now have a 2012 Silverado 3500HD SWR. I had a 2500 2008 Silverado that I did the same way minus the engine brake setting. I believe with the Allison transmission and the Dmax I could fall off a cliff and when I hit bottom I would still be going no faster than what I have the cruise set at.


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Old 05-26-2016, 05:17 PM   #27
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I live in Colorado and have seen several accidents due to overheated brakes.

Some easy tips that I use to keep things safe:

a. Tow haul switch on
b. Exhaust brake if equipped
c. Downshift 1-2 gears to increase engine braking
Increase engine load by:
a. A/C on even if it isn't hot on. This puts an 8-10 hp drag on engine
b. Increase electrical load on engine. The increased electrical load puts a load on the engine via alternator. I turn on all lights (parking, front, and fog), rear defroster, and even put the tush warmers on.

d. MOST IMPORTANT ***SNUB BRAKE**: Do not ride your brakes the entire way! This will cause them to overheat! Pick a comfortable speed and apply brakes when speed increases to 5mph faster than your desired speed and then apply brakes to about 5mph slower than set speed. Let go of brakes and repeat. With a/c on, car in lower gear, and high electrical load, you won't be speeding up as fast as you did before.

Lots of commercial drivers think that constant braking is the proper way to ride down a mountain. These keep the runaway hill maintainers employed. Constant braking is a myth especially when towing.

A good example of snub braking except I go 10 mph (5 above and snut to 5 below)



Good luck, have fun, and take it slow.
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Old 05-26-2016, 05:48 PM   #28
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Use your engine. Gear down. You'll find gearing down as you go up the mountain will help you. typically you want to go down a mountain in the gear you went up in. I've been known to pull off at the top of a mountain in the truck pull off to stop and check everything before going down. You want to use the engine more than brakes. When you do use your brakes you want to hit them hard enough to drop about 10 mph and then let the engine try to hold you there. When your speed goes back up, repeat the process. Riding your brakes will overheat them and cause a very dangerous situation. Higher rpms are ok. Take it slow and easy.
That's Good Information !!
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Old 05-26-2016, 09:14 PM   #29
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In my CDL air brake training snub braking was the big thing. It keeps the brakes cooler and for the big boys it's saves there air pressure.
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Old 05-26-2016, 09:21 PM   #30
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Petit Jean Mountain.............20 miles from where I sit.

Not really a 'mountain' by most folks standards. But a beautiful place. That mountain is mostly owned by the 'forgotten brother' of the Rockefellers..........Winnie Paul (Winthrop's son) and I were in boy scout camp together back in the Dark Ages. His tent had a 3,000 foot electric cord and a coke machine (still a dime back then! LOL). Those folks are all gone now. Somehow I remain.

Beautiful place.

Oh wait. Was the discussion about trailers and towing?????????? I apologize!!

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Old 05-26-2016, 10:39 PM   #31
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There are some great tips that have been presented so far. I like the one telling to put on the air and lights to load the engine, as every little bit can help. I am not impressed by the 50-60mph descents when you have clearly stated the need to obey 25mph warnings.

Getting use to the “M” mode is very important. And also knowing beforehand what gear will give you what speed at a given rpm. Meaning if you would rather not go over 3,700rpm (as a guess) you should have an idea what the speed would be in different gears. As different gear selections will need to be made on the fly as conditions change.

You could get an idea of what that would be on a level road by using manual and taking each gear up to that rpm and recording what the speed is. Let off and shift to the next gear and repeat. This would give you an idea of what gear would match your preferred rpm range and speed desired for maximum engine braking. And the rest would require the foot braking as has been clearly stated.

Going down a little slower is much better then over speed. Cause remember they always seem to put a stop sign at the bottom of them hills!
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Old 05-27-2016, 08:48 AM   #32
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I would recommend 1st gear. The hill is an overall grade of 9% with the first half being closer to 12%. Kinda steep is an understatement. 1.4 miles top to bottom with a 690 foot elevation change.


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Old 05-27-2016, 09:05 AM   #33
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Which pass is that?

Steepest we have been on was 16% going down into the black canyon near Montrose. That was an eye opener.
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Old 05-27-2016, 09:29 AM   #34
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My truck does not have a manual shift mode...shifter shows "PRND321" do i just have to slow down to the desired speed and then use cruise control to allow the truck to downshift from 4 to 3 and etc... or do I need to manually downshift to 3rd...

If so how can i do that while driving or do i have to come to a stop...shift from "D" to "3" and etc...

Thanks! Happy Memorial Day!
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Old 05-27-2016, 11:20 AM   #35
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No, you don't have to stop to shift from drive to 3rd. I wouldn't try it at 65 mph, as a test do it 45 mph. 3,2 and 1 are all available to manually shift to. I have the same shift options and would slow way down and put it in 1 at the top of that hill. After leveling out at the bottom you can pick up a little speed and shift to 2nd, pick up some speed and shift to 3rd, then to drive. I have only had to do this a couple of times in all my travels, as my tow/haul downshifts usually suffice. A grade this extreme is pretty rare.


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Old 05-27-2016, 04:44 PM   #36
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Which pass is that?

Steepest we have been on was 16% going down into the black canyon near Montrose. That was an eye opener.
what grade is this . the one heading into the south black canyon campground?
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Old 05-27-2016, 05:16 PM   #37
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I live in Colorado and have seen several accidents due to overheated brakes.

Some easy tips that I use to keep things safe:

a. Tow haul switch on
b. Exhaust brake if equipped
c. Downshift 1-2 gears to increase engine braking
Increase engine load by:
a. A/C on even if it isn't hot on. This puts an 8-10 hp drag on engine
b. Increase electrical load on engine. The increased electrical load puts a load on the engine via alternator. I turn on all lights (parking, front, and fog), rear defroster, and even put the tush warmers on.

d. MOST IMPORTANT ***SNUB BRAKE**: Do not ride your brakes the entire way! This will cause them to overheat! Pick a comfortable speed and apply brakes when speed increases to 5mph faster than your desired speed and then apply brakes to about 5mph slower than set speed. Let go of brakes and repeat. With a/c on, car in lower gear, and high electrical load, you won't be speeding up as fast as you did before.

Lots of commercial drivers think that constant braking is the proper way to ride down a mountain. These keep the runaway hill maintainers employed. Constant braking is a myth especially when towing.

A good example of snub braking except I go 10 mph (5 above and snut to 5 below)



Good luck, have fun, and take it slow.
This is outstanding information.

Marty
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Old 05-27-2016, 05:45 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by spock123 View Post
This is what I do when I'm coming down a steep mountain, I set the cruise at the speed at what I want to come down safely, then I put the truck in tow/haul with the engine brake on. When I get to the bottom I'm going at the speed I set the cruise at and I have never touched the brake. I now have a 2012 Silverado 3500HD SWR. I had a 2500 2008 Silverado that I did the same way minus the engine brake setting. I believe with the Allison transmission and the Dmax I could fall off a cliff and when I hit bottom I would still be going no faster than what I have the cruise set at.


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X2 but I do this with my Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins.

Select tow/haul, auto engine brake, and cruise set to 62 or speed limit if lower... Truck will not go over said regardless of grade...
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Old 05-27-2016, 05:54 PM   #39
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Lots of commercial drivers think that constant braking is the proper way to ride down a mountain. These keep the runaway hill maintainers employed. Constant braking is a myth especially when towing.

.
NO We Don't!

I drive commercially and have been a OTR driver instructor for 8 years.
We teach our drivers 5 on and 5 off. Hold brakes until you bleed off 5 mph, release, once u speed up 5 mph repeat...

Mel
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Old 05-27-2016, 06:29 PM   #40
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I have hauled several mountain routes and 9%-14% grades on the Blue Ridge Parkway which is where we are right now.
I turn on the tow/haul mode, activate the exhaust brake and set the cruise control and let the Allison tranny figure it out. Never had a problem with speed or temps. TT is 9,500 lbs and TV is a Silverado 2500 HD with super springs added.
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