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Old 09-24-2014, 12:47 AM   #11
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After much foot stomping

I realized that the bracket is almost perfectly placed. The bottom of the bracket comes into direct contact with the battery holder framing when the chain is not twisted .

I consider myself lucky that nothing had to be moved or shortened. This may actually help out more in the end. It could keep me from needing to add the optional welds in the end. The inside bracket is on (touching) the existing battery frame weld(s).

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So, do the same thing on the other side.
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I forgot to say the triangle needs to be perpendicular to the tongue.
Once the chains are both fully extended, the bolts are tightened. Then the set screw was installed per the manual (1.5 to 2 turns past touching for this model).
The brackets are done. The hitch is installed at this point.
Adjustment:
I turned the adjustment nuts until I could no longer move the bushing around by hand. That became my starting point. I used this method because of the disparity in chain length instead of what the manual stated.
Initial setting: I turned both nuts 4 times alternating between the nuts every other turn. That led to the measurements listed in spreadsheet.
Lowered the tongue jack and level.
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To drop the trailer, I was not successful in removing the plate without loosening the nuts on both sides two turns. I did have to raise the jack a great deal to get it off even then. I will work on that issue next week, as well.









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Old 09-24-2014, 12:54 AM   #12
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Adjustments

The only thing you need to do to raise/lower the vehicle at this point is turn the big nuts on the chains.

Passenger side:
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Driver's side:
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Front of trailer frame at this base setting:
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Back of trailer frame at this base setting:
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Ride Opinion: I have used many different w/d and sway systems over the years. I will only compare the e2 here, because that is the only hitch I have used with this particular trailer.

Driving at slow speed across the dirt parking lot was amazing compared to my E2. Very little bounce at all. Similar experience on a familiar bouncy road. Way less bounce than before.

No sway to speak of from the wind. At this initial setting, I did get a bit of push from the trucks (on the way to the scale). It was no more that my E2 and I was driving this with one hand. Very comfortable IMHO.

Even coming off the scale at a fairly step angle it seemed within easy control and didn't bounce.

Edit: I drove some with the windows down. There was zero noise from this hitch as far as I could tell. This was one of my decision points in the purchase. That one worked out flawlessly

Done for this week. I will update next week in my attempt to fine tune this install. I will throw in one other picture here. I took a lot of photos of the coupler because there has been concern expressed over the coupler jaw. I will use these one for comparison in the long term.
Before:
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Old 09-24-2014, 01:09 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irishtom29 View Post
There's a recent rash of people misusing the word fitment. That Andersen hasn't mastered 8th Grade English weakens my faith in their mastery of engineering.

Good lord. If all we are worried about in this thread is the proper use of the English language, I am deep kimchee.
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Old 09-24-2014, 07:59 AM   #14
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Very interesting, most informative. Thanks for the posts.
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:03 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irishtom29 View Post
There's a recent rash of people misusing the word fitment. That Andersen hasn't mastered 8th Grade English weakens my faith in their mastery of engineering.
They are engineers, not English majors...

I do believe they are using the word fitment to describe the hitch assembly as a unit. IIRC, a fitment can be a device as well as furniture, so that usage would be awkward, but correct.

madmaxmutt - it's spelled "kimchi", so there.
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Old 09-24-2014, 08:31 AM   #16
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So you got about 100 lbs. of weight transfer to the front and 200 lbs. off the rear.
How tight do you pull the chains? Just until the rig is level?
I'd love to know the vertical measurement between the center of the ball and the center of the triangular plate. Also the distance between the front wheels and the ball.
Calculations would be interesting.
Example; 100 lbs. x ~15 feet between the hitch and front wheels = 1,500 ft-lbs.
If the height of the hitch was a foot (I think it's less) it would take 1,500 lbs. of force on the two chains. I can't imagine that much force without those urethane bushings being squished to death. What do you think?
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Old 09-24-2014, 10:07 AM   #17
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madmaxmutt - it's spelled "kimchi", so there.
You are making my point for me

I did exactly 730 days in that country. We all know there are several spellings for words over there In fact, my last trip they had changed the name of half the towns there. Pusan is now Busan. Tongduchon is now Dongduchon or something like that. I gave up caring
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Old 09-24-2014, 10:16 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBaron View Post
So you got about 100 lbs. of weight transfer to the front and 200 lbs. off the rear.
How tight do you pull the chains? Just until the rig is level?
I'd love to know the vertical measurement between the center of the ball and the center of the triangular plate. Also the distance between the front wheels and the ball.
Calculations would be interesting.
Example; 100 lbs. x ~15 feet between the hitch and front wheels = 1,500 ft-lbs.
If the height of the hitch was a foot (I think it's less) it would take 1,500 lbs. of force on the two chains. I can't imagine that much force without those urethane bushings being squished to death. What do you think?
Keep in mind, this was the initial setup with no opportunity to adjust. The settings were left at the baseline starting point. I will get to the tweaking (tightening the chains) next week. This setting provided sufficient transfer for my case, but I am sure it can be better. The base setting is 7 threads, but I ended at 8 on the longer chain. I used the snug point as my starting point on each side and made 4 full turns. (resulting in 7 and 8 thread showing) Trying to count the threads is not going to be very accurate, but I can also see it doesn't require any more accuracy.

Level is primarily set (as with most hitches) by the ball height. That is why I fiddled around with that part so long. The manual wants you 1 to 1 1/2 inch lower on the front of the trailer than the back of the trailer (when just sitting on the ball). That appears to be their expected movement range.

I will try to snap a pic of the ball to triangle measurement when I drop the trailer off this morning.

Which "front wheels"? truck or trailer? I will get you those measurements also.
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Old 09-24-2014, 11:47 AM   #19
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Great write-up !!

Something just ain't a figuring in the weights.

Picture 3 indicates a 4400 lb. axle weight on the trailer, but in picture 3 the axles weigh 4500 lbs. Subtracting the empty truck weight of 6380 from the total truck weight of 6980 in the 3rd picture is 600 lbs......that should equal the added weight of the tongue, but the tongue weighs 700 lbs. in picture 2.

I realize that the weight shift from the coupler axis to the jack axis could amount to a slight shift in weights, but I would think a 100 lb. tongue weight shift would be outside of the margin. Something else had to happened to cause that difference.......maybe the scale operator was drinking early in the day.

Normally, you do not have to drop the trailer on the scales. The empty truck weight subtracted from the truck weight with the trailer hooked up with the spring bars (in this case, the chains) unhooked should give you a tongue weight.
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Old 09-25-2014, 12:42 AM   #20
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In my opinion, you are making a simple installation and adjustment process overly complicated. Get rid of the micrometer and follow the instructions on thread count.
The 1/4" difference in chain length should have been compensated for by the bracket location if you followed the instructions.
Andersen does not want the front of the trailer 1 to 1-1/2 inches lower on initial setup, the trailer should be LEVEL, and the ball 1-1/2 inches higher..
Seven or eight threads seems excessive. Trust Andersen and don't try to fiddle with the starting point they recommend. If you did not setup the chains and brackets as instructed, which will compensate for the chain difference, you need to reinstall the brackets.
I agree, this is a great hitch system. Easy to level and adjust/compensate for different load conditions in the trailer and the TV. I have hitched and un-hitched 13 times this month, and am very happy with my choice.
By the way, Anderson customer service is quite good and quickly answered the several questions I had during installation and initial use.
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