My Andersen Install Thread and Evaluation

[madmaxmutt]

It arrived last night. I cannot help but recommend Autorad (I used his Ebay site) enough. He was GREAT. I also want to say Andersen customer service is great. Make sure you talk to them to be sure you are buying the correct version/model. There are several frame variations and the seller's have significant restocking fees if you buy the wrong one. The fitment guide will be needed for this task:Andersen Fitment Guide WD Hitch-2014.pdf

The installation manual is here:Andersen WD Hitch installation manual 2013 sm.pdf


This is the packed hitch.


It was 53 lbs. on my scale.


Parts of the kit/hitch.


The ball and shank were 23 lbs, so I would guess 24-25 lbs once they are attached.



The ball is flat on top. In some photos/drawings it was shown as round on top.

Install to follow (with as much detail as I can muster). . .

[MtnGuy]

Great review start !!

Looking forward to the sequel.

[madmaxmutt]

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Ford F150 V6 (Twin Turbo) FX4 4x4
Rear Gears: 3.55 GVWR: 7200 Rear GAWR: 4050 Front GAWR: 3750
Tires: Bridgestone Dueler P275/55/20 (@40 lbs Tire Pressure)
NOTE: Timbren FRTT1502D (7K lbs.) WILL NOT BE INSTALLED as a part of this evaluation. I will do that as a follow-up because Andersen seems to strongly recommend their usage in the manual.

Trailer: 2011 Surveyor SV235RKS (Not camping loaded but not empty)
GVWR: 7476 lbs. Dry Weight: 4427 lbs.
2 x 30 lbs propane tanks full.
1 x battery.
No Water in Fresh Water Tank.
Gray & Black Tanks both empty.
Goodyear Marathon (C rated).

Picture with previous E2 hitch at 11K+ feet:

Edit: Just noticed I didn't have the power tongue jack on at this point in the picture, but it is installed now.


I plan to use this spreadsheet. If anyone sees any real problems with it, please PM me rather than adding a thousand posts to this thread.


Scale weights to follow . . .

[MtnGuy]

Great base information. The spreadsheet looks good to this ol' boy.

[madmaxmutt]

This is my first mockup of the connection so I can measure the trailer frame where the brackets will go for obstructions.


The bracket itself is angled away from the ball slightly from bottom to top. Then the bracket has a larger protruding piece for the chain to go through at the bottom.


It appears to be about 25 1/8" from ball center in mockup from the trailer ball center to the closest portion of the bracket.



The bracket rail (the part that actually bolts on to the trailer frame) is 26" away in mockup.


The far side of the bracket rail (2" steel) is then 28 1/2" in mockup with the angle of the bracket.

[thestrangebrew]

Subbed!

[irishtom29]

There's a recent rash of people misusing the word fitment. That Andersen hasn't mastered 8th Grade English weakens my faith in their mastery of engineering.

[madmaxmutt]

I followed the instructions as near as I could, but I ran out of time for fine tuning. I will have to wait until next week to work on the fine tuning. This is the abbreviated version compared to the manual.
So, here are my install notes.
The fitment guide information was not used at all during the install. I gather that info only provides the data points needed to correctly select the hitch model you need. I did get the correct model by using it, though. Andersen took the numbers I provided and gave me the model number. (My model number is 3350.)
Other than familiarization, my mockup really didn’t help me. The measurements ended up incorrect due to the installation angle of the frame, and the noted disparity (below) in chain length.
There are a couple other things that came up while I was looking at the parts in mockup.
1. The different frame connectors have differing locations for the set screw. Some are on the bottom, but mine are on the top. It appears that some kits must have set screws on both pieces and both sides, so you would end up with four total set screws.


2. As near as I can tell my model only requires set screws on the outboard side of the frame, as there are no holes for the screws on the inside pieces. So, I only used two (of the provided four) set screws. This made me more sure that I would need to weld the outside frame brackets to complete the install.

The instructions cover those differences, but I still found it a little odd. I hate having extra parts because it makes me think I have done something wrong. I do appreciate them including an extra ball pin, though.
The first thing I tried to do at the trailer was check for obstructions. It will be close, but I will get to that in the next part.
I had to install the hitch and then drive to the scales, but I will try to put all of this back in order.
Quality: As I stated in an earlier post all the welds look good. My total chain lengths are almost 1/4” different in length. That did make this a bit challenging in placement of the frame brackets and measuring/counting the nut position. Basically unless I figure something else out, I will have two different measurements. I also notices the triangular piece is not exactly the same on both sides, although I could not find a measured difference in the hole to (center of) ball distance. It just looks like it was stamped/cut poorly on one side.

One of my main reasons for choosing this hitch was the tools required. (By comparison my E2 needed a big air impact wrench to reach the 250 and 450 ft-lbs for bolts.) I just happened to own the caliper measuring device, so I used it. I will travel with a much more simplistic tool. I will post a pic of that ruler later.


Note: the towels were included in this picture to remind me to mention that I had to clean/remove the grease from the coupler housing for this hitch. I forgot to mention it anyway

[madmaxmutt]

Weight chart:
I got run off the scale after the third re-weigh and before I could be the final measurements (on the ball but no chains connected). I was alone when I started, but a few truckers showed up and they asked me to get off the scale when I called for the last re-weighJ

Attachment 63430

After fine tuning, I think I will have a few more lines. The thread count to me is pretty useless. The measurement is much more accurate. It us just hard to tell where to start/stop when counting the threads.

Here are the scale figures.
Truck Only:


Trailer Only: A lot front heavy when mostly empty.


Trailer sitting on the ball with NO chains.


Full weight distribution connection and leveled.


Sittin' on the scale Well just before things went south with the management


One inch low in front over 24' seems good to me.

[madmaxmutt]

Start by installing the shank:

They want you to put the ball slightly (1” to 1.5”) higher than the coupler to start.

That did not work for me at all. Initial ball setting:

I worked my way hole by hole up to here (shank inverted) and realized I went too far:

The customer service rep did tell me to get this model because "you won't lose space between the shank pointed down and the shank pointed up". I think he means this 1.5" once inverted:

I believe the progressive springs on the truck drop more than they expect until the ½ leaf takes weight. This is possibly why the Timbrens are highly suggested. Each hole is 1.5” inch higher than the one below it. The entire purpose of setting the ball height is to make the trailer near level once you are on the road. To do this you need to find the setting that leaves no more than 1.5” of difference between the trailer frame height from front to rear with no distribution happening. I ended up 2 full holes up or 3” higher than the 1” I started at.
Final ball setting:

Then you need to attach the chains. That was pretty simple. Just tighten the shackle pin, then back it off a bit to keep it from seizing.

Then connect the bracket pieces for one side using only the top bolt/nut and slide it on the frame. Put the second bolt in.

Pull the chain threaded end through the bracket. Add the bushing and hardware.

Extend the chain and look for anything in the way. Uh OH!

[madmaxmutt]

I realized that the bracket is almost perfectly placed. The bottom of the bracket comes into direct contact with the battery holder framing when the chain is not twisted .

I consider myself lucky that nothing had to be moved or shortened. This may actually help out more in the end. It could keep me from needing to add the optional welds in the end. The inside bracket is on (touching) the existing battery frame weld(s).



So, do the same thing on the other side.

I forgot to say the triangle needs to be perpendicular to the tongue.
Once the chains are both fully extended, the bolts are tightened. Then the set screw was installed per the manual (1.5 to 2 turns past touching for this model).
The brackets are done. The hitch is installed at this point.
Adjustment:
I turned the adjustment nuts until I could no longer move the bushing around by hand. That became my starting point. I used this method because of the disparity in chain length instead of what the manual stated.
Initial setting: I turned both nuts 4 times alternating between the nuts every other turn. That led to the measurements listed in spreadsheet.
Lowered the tongue jack and level.

To drop the trailer, I was not successful in removing the plate without loosening the nuts on both sides two turns. I did have to raise the jack a great deal to get it off even then. I will work on that issue next week, as well.

[madmaxmutt]

The only thing you need to do to raise/lower the vehicle at this point is turn the big nuts on the chains.

Passenger side:


Driver's side:


Front of trailer frame at this base setting:


Back of trailer frame at this base setting:


Ride Opinion: I have used many different w/d and sway systems over the years. I will only compare the e2 here, because that is the only hitch I have used with this particular trailer.

Driving at slow speed across the dirt parking lot was amazing compared to my E2. Very little bounce at all. Similar experience on a familiar bouncy road. Way less bounce than before.

No sway to speak of from the wind. At this initial setting, I did get a bit of push from the trucks (on the way to the scale). It was no more that my E2 and I was driving this with one hand. Very comfortable IMHO.

Even coming off the scale at a fairly step angle it seemed within easy control and didn't bounce.

Edit: I drove some with the windows down. There was zero noise from this hitch as far as I could tell. This was one of my decision points in the purchase. That one worked out flawlessly

Done for this week. I will update next week in my attempt to fine tune this install. I will throw in one other picture here. I took a lot of photos of the coupler because there has been concern expressed over the coupler jaw. I will use these one for comparison in the long term.
Before:

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by irishtom29

There's a recent rash of people misusing the word fitment. That Andersen hasn't mastered 8th Grade English weakens my faith in their mastery of engineering.

Good lord. If all we are worried about in this thread is the proper use of the English language, I am deep kimchee.

[irishtom29]

Very interesting, most informative. Thanks for the posts.

[BigBaron]

Originally Posted by irishtom29

There's a recent rash of people misusing the word fitment. That Andersen hasn't mastered 8th Grade English weakens my faith in their mastery of engineering.

They are engineers, not English majors...

I do believe they are using the word fitment to describe the hitch assembly as a unit. IIRC, a fitment can be a device as well as furniture, so that usage would be awkward, but correct.

madmaxmutt - it's spelled "kimchi", so there.

[BigBaron]

So you got about 100 lbs. of weight transfer to the front and 200 lbs. off the rear.
How tight do you pull the chains? Just until the rig is level?
I'd love to know the vertical measurement between the center of the ball and the center of the triangular plate. Also the distance between the front wheels and the ball.
Calculations would be interesting.
Example; 100 lbs. x ~15 feet between the hitch and front wheels = 1,500 ft-lbs.
If the height of the hitch was a foot (I think it's less) it would take 1,500 lbs. of force on the two chains. I can't imagine that much force without those urethane bushings being squished to death. What do you think?

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by BigBaron

madmaxmutt - it's spelled "kimchi", so there.

You are making my point for me

I did exactly 730 days in that country. We all know there are several spellings for words over there In fact, my last trip they had changed the name of half the towns there. Pusan is now Busan. Tongduchon is now Dongduchon or something like that. I gave up caring

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by BigBaron

So you got about 100 lbs. of weight transfer to the front and 200 lbs. off the rear.
How tight do you pull the chains? Just until the rig is level?
I'd love to know the vertical measurement between the center of the ball and the center of the triangular plate. Also the distance between the front wheels and the ball.
Calculations would be interesting.
Example; 100 lbs. x ~15 feet between the hitch and front wheels = 1,500 ft-lbs.
If the height of the hitch was a foot (I think it's less) it would take 1,500 lbs. of force on the two chains. I can't imagine that much force without those urethane bushings being squished to death. What do you think?

Keep in mind, this was the initial setup with no opportunity to adjust. The settings were left at the baseline starting point. I will get to the tweaking (tightening the chains) next week. This setting provided sufficient transfer for my case, but I am sure it can be better. The base setting is 7 threads, but I ended at 8 on the longer chain. I used the snug point as my starting point on each side and made 4 full turns. (resulting in 7 and 8 thread showing) Trying to count the threads is not going to be very accurate, but I can also see it doesn't require any more accuracy.

Level is primarily set (as with most hitches) by the ball height. That is why I fiddled around with that part so long. The manual wants you 1 to 1 1/2 inch lower on the front of the trailer than the back of the trailer (when just sitting on the ball). That appears to be their expected movement range.

I will try to snap a pic of the ball to triangle measurement when I drop the trailer off this morning.

Which "front wheels"? truck or trailer? I will get you those measurements also.

[MtnGuy]

Great write-up !!

Something just ain't a figuring in the weights.

Picture 3 indicates a 4400 lb. axle weight on the trailer, but in picture 3 the axles weigh 4500 lbs. Subtracting the empty truck weight of 6380 from the total truck weight of 6980 in the 3rd picture is 600 lbs......that should equal the added weight of the tongue, but the tongue weighs 700 lbs. in picture 2.

I realize that the weight shift from the coupler axis to the jack axis could amount to a slight shift in weights, but I would think a 100 lb. tongue weight shift would be outside of the margin. Something else had to happened to cause that difference.......maybe the scale operator was drinking early in the day.

Normally, you do not have to drop the trailer on the scales. The empty truck weight subtracted from the truck weight with the trailer hooked up with the spring bars (in this case, the chains) unhooked should give you a tongue weight.

[Henboy]

In my opinion, you are making a simple installation and adjustment process overly complicated. Get rid of the micrometer and follow the instructions on thread count.
The 1/4" difference in chain length should have been compensated for by the bracket location if you followed the instructions.
Andersen does not want the front of the trailer 1 to 1-1/2 inches lower on initial setup, the trailer should be LEVEL, and the ball 1-1/2 inches higher..
Seven or eight threads seems excessive. Trust Andersen and don't try to fiddle with the starting point they recommend. If you did not setup the chains and brackets as instructed, which will compensate for the chain difference, you need to reinstall the brackets.
I agree, this is a great hitch system. Easy to level and adjust/compensate for different load conditions in the trailer and the TV. I have hitched and un-hitched 13 times this month, and am very happy with my choice.
By the way, Anderson customer service is quite good and quickly answered the several questions I had during installation and initial use.