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Old 09-22-2016, 07:55 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Kf4mnc View Post
I had a P3 on my Tundra and now a factory controller on my 2500 Silverado. I have NEVER been able to lock up my brakes on my 2012 Coachman Catelina. I have serviced them, a buddy mechanic, and a local shop, ALL the same results. I recall seeing/reading somewhere that some trailers won't lock up. I don't know if that is my imagination, or true. Ether way, I've always been able to stop, but never been able to lock up my trailer brakes.

I had a P3 on my Tundra and the trailer brakes would lock. Now I've got a 2500 Silverado as well, no luck with trying to lock them up. I think the factory controllers just don't allow the same amount of juice through the lines as a P3. That's an awesome controller. I've considered adjusting my brakes, but the more I read, this is a pretty consistent story with the integrated controllers.


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Old 09-22-2016, 08:28 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Martsing View Post
What is a light trailer or heavy trailer setting? Is that something arrived at through experience or is there specific setting?

You arrive at the settings via testing. You need to read the owners manual on how to set it up correctly. There are also YouTube videos with information on how to do it. Each combination tow vehicle and trailer are different, so you will need to find what works best for your setup. You'll also need to adjust this setting every so often, so don't just set it and never look at it again.

If you set it too high, the trailer brakes will be constantly locking up when you brake and you'll go through brake pads and tires like mad! If too light, your tow vehicle does all the work and you won't be able to stop very well. In that case you'll also be replacing brakes shoes/pads in the tow vehicle very often.


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Old 09-23-2016, 12:04 PM   #23
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I checked the voltage at all wheels and had one wheel showing low voltage. After replacing the "factory" wire splicers I needed to turn my controller down.

On my trailer the main wire runs down to the left wheel, then daisy chains to the rear then across to the other side. Those crapy wire connectors that have a metal blade that slices into the two wires to make the connection suck. I cut those off and soldered the wires.

It made a big difference, now I can feel the trailer brakes get "grabby" in traffic then I back it down from that setting just slightly. I check the drums with a temp gauge regularly.
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Old 09-23-2016, 12:12 PM   #24
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Quick splice connectors should never be used in an environment that will get wet. You are just asking for trouble. I won't use them anywhere.

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Old 09-23-2016, 08:13 PM   #25
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I would not use a scotch lock connector for a tag light repair! Can't believe someone thinks this is OK for brakes!


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