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Old 12-26-2014, 03:32 PM   #11
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Tsmcmillen, what is your GCVW while towing your Cherokee Lite 28a w/family of (6)?

If you're under the Expedition EL's 15,000 GCVW, an affordable upgrade would be to find a used Equalizer (4) on CL, etc. which IMO provides the most stability for the money. (If it doesn't help, you can resell it for the same amount you paid...) Used Hensley/Proprides are much harder to find, but, again, you could re-sell a used one for about what you paid if it doesn't work out...

I would then swap-out at least your rear tires for LT/E rated tires. If you are a seasonal camper, you could get some spare rims & swap tires before the camping season. Then swap-back to your passenger tires for the rest of the year for a more comfy ride...

Had to consider the same options when we were considering a large SUV for towing but opted for a 3/4 ton truck instead. IMO the Excursion was the only SUV that made sense for towing 7,500+ lbs. but the older engine & tranny combo make 'em real fuel hogs...
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Old 12-27-2014, 12:06 AM   #12
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I need to take it to the scales and double check the weight. My DW is not an overpacker when it comes to the camper. When we first got the trailer I had a 2004 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4.7 with the gcwr was 11,500 and we were under it then. However, when we upgraded to the Tundra we went to a gcwr of 16,000 so I never weighed it. We never really added anything in the camper so my theory was if it was good enough for the Dodge I was okay in the Tundra.
We knew the payload of the of the Tundra while towing was not as high as other trucks so we kept the bikes or kayaks in the camper. But we did that with the Dodge also.

All that said the maiden voyage was a local run. We have a local lake you can get to either by the interstate or by backroads. While on the backroads the sway was minimum. However, I brought it back on the interstate and that was where they sway showed. It was a white knuckle ride the whole time. The passing semis were horrible and I stayed around 60. I did readjust the hitch after getting the Expedition and feel fairly confident in the setup. Next summer we are hoping to visit relatives in Kentucky and would like the ride from Georgia to Kentucky over the mountains to be a pleasant experience.
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Old 12-27-2014, 06:30 AM   #13
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Good idea on swapping out to LT, that will upgrade and reduce the squirm. Try inflating to maximum pressure as stated by the tire manufacturer for the P series. I had the stock showing inflation of 45 psi when in fact they can take 44 psi increasing loaf per tire by close to 1000 lbs.
Also check with a competent mechanic but locally we can not run mixed tire legally, DOT stating unsafe,
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Old 12-27-2014, 11:36 AM   #14
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Even 60 is to fast for me. I travel at an agerage speed of 53-55. I don't have to pass and yes I'm retired.
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Old 12-27-2014, 05:09 PM   #15
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131 inch wheel base on the EL is plenty for a 28 foot camper. Dropping from 145 inches isn't the problem. Adding a 2nd sway bar isn't the answer either. I highly recommend the Reese Dual cam WDH, which actually prevents sway unlike the sway bars, Equalizer WDH, etc, which just help to remove the sway once it starts. I wrote this for another forum, reposting it here:

The biggest contributors to sway, in this order:

1. Not enough tongue weight

2. Distance between rear axle and the hitch ball

3. Speed

4. Short wheelbase vehicle (131 isn't short)

5. Camper tongue is pointed up, not level or pointed slightly down.

6. Not enough pressure in the TV and trailer tires (they should be at or near their max sidewall rating)

7. Lack of sway control

8. Outside forces like side winds, etc.


When sway starts ...

... never touch the accelerator, this adds energy to the equation right when you need to be removing it.

... never touch the TV's brakes, this magnifies the problem even though you are removing energy.

... never try to steer opposite of the the wobbling feeling, there is a 90% chance you'll increase the wobble, and increase it significantly.

... ALWAYS apply the brake controller aggressively, even if it means temporarily locking up the trailer brakes. You may have to keep applying some trailer brake all the way down the hill. This forces the TV to pull on the hitch which negates the sway.

One exception to the accelerator rule - if you are pulling a trailer without trailer brakes, and you are within 100 feet of the bottom of the hill, and nobody is in front of you, then mash on the accelerator. It has the same effect as applying trailer brakes by forcing the TV to pull the trailer straight. But this is a rare exception to the rule.
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Old 12-30-2014, 11:18 AM   #16
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Another option I haven't seen mentioned here is the Andersen WDH. No sway problems, but from my limited experience and research, it doesn't seem to distribute weight that well for heavier tongue weights. Just throwing it out there though because it it does a great job for sway control.
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