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Old 09-26-2012, 09:23 AM   #11
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As for WDH for your size TT, you might want to also check out the E2 (made be Equalizer). They have one rated for 600/6000 lbs for under $300 and not hard to install.

Concerning your TV, suggest you be sure to have a transmission cooler installed.... another $200, but well worth every penny.

Once this is done, you'll probably be looking for a larger TV within a year... never ending cycle.. lol!

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Old 09-26-2012, 09:31 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by harpoon View Post
but I can't buy a new truck right now..
But come on, the economy needs you...

Originally Posted by harpoon View Post
Will the best of best WDH and sway controll allow this match to happen???
WDH and sway will not give your TV anymore horse power, will not give you a heavier frame for support and will not add to your braking ability. No the best of the best will not help if your TV is not rated to pull the load.

I'm not saying your is not, I don't know, that is your homework....

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Old 09-26-2012, 09:43 AM   #13
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well, a Reese Dual-Cam or Equalizer WDH would be a great choice on WDH.
but it's the limits of the v-6 engine, except for the new Ecoboost v-6, not the WDH that is the problem.

not sure where you live so can't say how it'll do for sure. i wouldn't use it out here in the West. i have numerous mountain ranges to get over and would never tow the 23SS with a v-6 unless it was the Ecoboost.

you'll definitely be at the truck's max due to the weight and frontal air resistance.
a full-height trailer is much harder to tow than a boat, that weighs the same, due to the air resistance that the truck has to overcome.

a 19' hybrid would have been a perfect match for your truck. the 23SS will max it out. it has a GVWR of 6347lbs. which isn't that hard to do.
i'm around 5500lbs. loaded for just two people.
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Old 09-26-2012, 06:13 PM   #14
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We use a Reese dual-cam WDH and a Tekonsha P3 brake contoller with our Frontier and Mini Lite. The P3 is a snap to install using the pigtail designed for Nissan trucks. I bought the P3 and pigtail from Amazon, but got the Reese from a trailer hitch dealer here in Denver. Because I didn't need the 1,000/10,000 lb. WDH (the most popular size) for my relatively lightweight trailer, I got it for a considerable discount from list price. Then I got it installed by the camper dealer when I picked up my trailer for only $45--much less than the $100+ charged by Camping World. So, not everything is cheaper on-line!

I guess you just try your new trailer with your Frontier and see how it works. The transmission cooler is a very good idea and not using all of your 1833 lb. cargo capacity may help some too. For example, don't fill your fresh water or holding tanks before leaving home because that water weight is included in the cargo capacity. And 36 gallons of fresh water and 5 gallons in your black tank weighs 330 pounds (that's like two extra adult passengers). Anything heavy that you put in the pickup bed (generator, filled gas can, ATV, bicycles, canoe, etc.) also subtracts from the capability of truck to tow the trailer. The bottom line is: keep it light!

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Old 09-26-2012, 06:30 PM   #15
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transmission cooler is a very good idea
Agree. We have a Silverado 1500 and with the cooler the temperature dropped roughly 20 degrees Celsius.

We have found the engine to be an issue (4.8L); new TV on the way. Our TT is 4,000 dry, and the TV was rated for 5,500. Add a passenger, supplies, etc and hills were a challenge. Concerned as well with the total capacity of the vehicle which is 11,000 lbs. Our plan is to carry our motorcycles in the bed and those combined with the TV and TT were close, guesstimating over 10,000; supplies and such heading close to 11,000.
Mike and Brenda

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Old 10-02-2012, 04:26 PM   #16
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Hey Guys, thank all for the awesome input.. I think I am going to make this happen with my TV I will just be frugal with how much I load in it..
I asked the dealer to tell me what brake controller and tow setup he included with the purchase and this is what he told me. can you comment on the quality of them?

The Dealer:
"The break control is a Huskey Quest, that will work very well on trailers up to 40' with two axles. The sway contol will be a Huskey along with the equilizer package. These are all very eazy to adjust and will work great with the Rockwood"

Now the dealer only sells Husky products so from what you guys were suggesting ( Equalizer) the closest they have is the Husky Centerline. It looks almost identicle.
Can anyone comment on the Centerline vs the Equalizer???

Thanks so much

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Old 10-02-2012, 05:20 PM   #17
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I have been towing with a Equalizer 10k for a few years now. We switched to a Propride 3p this winter but I really didn't like it and didn't feel like it was worth the $$. That said, I am back with the old faithful equalizer, it is very simple and works very well. Fair warning though, they are a bit noisy but there are several lubricants that will quiet it down.
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Old 10-02-2012, 05:43 PM   #18
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I personally like an old school Tekonsha. It is what I had in my 91 F350 and what I installed in my Liberty. Most of all, get one that is inertia based, not time based. Spend the extra cash.

As for wdh and sway, and everyone has an opinion. Get what you feel is right for you.

As far as your TV, you should be fine as long as all safety measures are taken. If you have P rated tires, get LT rated with D or E load range. Respect the trailer. I tow at 55 to 60 tops on an open hiway. Heck trailer tires are rated at 65 max. You're on vacation, why rush.
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:47 AM   #19
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Thanks Choo choo and Gizmo.. I did verify that the Brake Controller is an Inertia type so I should be good there.
But still not getting a warm and fuzzy on the Husky Centerline setup..
Anyone out there use this particular setup??

Thanks as always..
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Old 10-17-2012, 04:08 PM   #20
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Don't just get any inertia type brake controller. A Prodigy, P2, or P3 (each from Tekonsha) are the best. You have thousands of $$$ wrapped up in a truck and trailer. Why not spend the extra $40 for the best? Ask for it by name.

Many cheaper inertia based controllers are pendulum-based (moving parts) and have to be properly leveled. The P2/P3 units have no moving parts, instead using accelerometers to measure deceleration and send a proportional signal to the trailer brakes.

For the WDH, I recommend the full Equal-i-zer, not the E2. The full system has a more complete sway control system, and again, will only cost you another $40-50.

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brake control, brakes

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