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Old 07-13-2015, 07:23 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by leefl View Post
If the real payload max is 2070 lb, rather than the 1633 lb listed on the cab itself (not sure why this would be wrong though), then I'd still be at least 161 lb over with a lighter slider hitch and all 4 of us in the cab.

Can anyone clarify whether the max payload is purely hypothetical (e.g.: based on some regulatory restrictions), or is genuinely based on the structural integrity of the chassis, or the capacity of the suspension etc ?

If the former then I really don't care, if the latter then I assume that there's some margin-of-error built-in, but am a lot more concerned.

Also, anyone have any theories as to the discrepancies between the rating listed by ford online and what's listed on the cab ?
Online is "suggested capacity, sticker is computer Calc "as built"
Air bags help shift th load to the fwd axle. Another rating is the individual axle ratings. Surely your rear axle is way over in this config. IE: nose high.
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Old 07-13-2015, 07:30 PM   #32
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This must be your first Ford truck. The real payload is ALWAYS lower than the brochure.


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Old 07-13-2015, 08:15 PM   #33
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This must be your first Ford truck. The real payload is ALWAYS lower than the brochure.
Yes, first truck of any kind. Was towing our pop-up camper with my wife's Nissan Murano, and I was driving a sports sedan.

The dealer that sold the truck is supposedly trying to confirm whether I should be using the door sticker payload limit, or the listed payload limit for my chassis/cab/engine/wheelbase combo. (The generic F-150 payload is listed as 3300 max, but of course that's with the shortest wheelbase, and the standard cab, and the heavy duty payload package).

I'm just trying to determine if my real payload is 1633 lb or 2070 lb, and regardless of which it is whether it's safe to exceed that payload, based on whether it's just some formulaic number, or genuinely based on the actual capabilities of the truck.
The only options on the truck that add to the weight are the 20" wheels (instead of the 18" standard) tho they should affect the payload since they're not loading down the chassis/springs (tho' could affect the towing limit), the moonroof (since glass is a bit heavier than aluminum, but not that much), and the axle ratio (tho' I'm sure the diff gears shouldn't affect the axle weight limit much). Nothing explains the 1633 capacity.
I'm not sure if either rating are supposed to allow for a 150lb driver (which I've read elsewhere), If so then if the real limit is 2070lb then we'd only be a couple of pounds over the limit and I'm not worried, otherwise I don't know what the heck to do now.
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:22 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VinceU View Post
Online is "suggested capacity, sticker is computer Calc "as built"
Air bags help shift th load to the fwd axle. Another rating is the individual axle ratings. Surely your rear axle is way over in this config. IE: nose high.
The online ratio is specifically based on the F-150, CrewCab, 145" wheelbase and the 3.5L V6 twinturbo ecoboost engine. None of the optional extras would account for that much difference (extended moonroof 20" vs 18" wheels/tires, drop-in bedliner, increased axle ratio with locking diff, extended fuel tank (36 gallon vs 23 gallon).

As far as I can work out the difference would be at most 20lb (moonroof), wheels/tires 0lb (affects towing capacity but not payload since not loading suspension), bedliner 30lb ? (tho' I could happily remove that if it made the difference), extended fuel tank (maybe 20lb for the larger tank itself ?, and 7lb/gallon for the extra fuel) 111lb, so perhaps 161lb difference, not the 437lb difference listed.
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Old 07-13-2015, 09:57 PM   #35
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The payload is calculated with a full tank of fuel and 150 lb driver.

I'm not trying to ruin your life but I was told that what it says on the door of the truck is the payload for that truck regardless of what it says on the internet. Do you have LT or P rated tires? Tire size on the tire would start with LT if it's a truck tire, like LT265/60R20 or something. Maybe LT tires would help increase your payload?

I don't think airbags will increase your payload, at least that's what I was told.

Take your truck to a truck stop and weigh it with whatever you expect to be in it when you pull your trailer. Full tank of fuel, passengers, tools, coolers full of cold beverages, firewood, chairs, etc. Subtract that weight from the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) on your door sticker and that's your payload capacity for your trailer.

I never believe anything a dealer tells me truck or RV when it comes to towing capacity.
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Old 07-13-2015, 10:17 PM   #36
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OP.
I had a 2013 Screw with 5 1/2 ft box. I used the revolution, a Reese Elite with pucks! I could turn 90 degrees. I was able to tow no problem. The hitch was mounted right over the wheels like it was suppose to be done, the underbed mount bolted right in.

As as load capacity, it handled it. I would still have the truck but I was offered a great deal and great trade.

I also had a King Ranch optioned to the Max. And 20 inch wheels with LT tires at 65 PSI.


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Old 07-13-2015, 10:47 PM   #37
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When I bought my 2012 F-150 Eco-boost with full towing capacity (11,300#), but with the short (5 1/2') bed, my RV dealer told me most firmly that I could not go with a 5th wheel under any circumstances or design "features." I've towed a 9,500# (loaded) tow-behind with a Hensley Arrow hitch all over the western USA & southern Canada from south Texas with no problems whatsoever. If you go with a 5th wheel get a truck with a longer bed. If you stay with a short bed get a tow-behind with a Hensley!!
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Old 07-13-2015, 11:03 PM   #38
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I have a 2014 rockwood signature ultra light 8289 5th wheel. Dry weight is 8004. I pull it with 5.6 inch bed 2011 Toyota Tundra Maxi Cab with trailering package. I was concerned when they had to mount the hitch 1.5 inches forward of center in box but no issues. The revolution hitch is the greatest. I was told you could not use the slide hitch with revolution but for me no issue cause I don't need it.
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Old 07-14-2015, 12:30 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by leefl View Post
The 7 inch clearance is when using the Reese 16K manual slider, in addition to the SideWinder/Revolution, correct ?
(otherwise with just the SideWinder/Revolution and a fixed hitch the clearance would be negative with the hitch mounted 1.5" forward)

Is the hitch the square tube slider ?
https://www.etrailer.com/Fifth-Wheel/Reese/RP30051.html

or the round tube slider ?
https://www.etrailer.com/Fifth-Wheel/Reese/RP30075.html

Thanks so much for your help
My bad! Was in hurry when posted. Mine is the 6.8' bed and it is with just the standard hitch and the Reese Revolution. I went and measured and it has 12 inches of clearance. The 7" came from another truck. I also didn't notice you had the 150. Sorry for the confusion. It actually doesn't change the pin load on the hitch, just moves the pivot point back. Gives more clearance to the side of the truck for the pinbox as the pivot is under the mounting point on the camper. For what it is worth in your situation I would get the autoslider as you will have trouble making turns in tight areas and bet you will forget to get out and move the slider back manually. Been there done that. Even with the 2 inchs of clearance you can still make a 90 degree turn. Close yes but it should work.
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Old 07-14-2015, 12:39 AM   #40
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If I can persuade them to do so I think I'm going to try to get the Ford dealership to let me "upgrade" the F150 (which I only bought at the weekend) for an F250 (despite it not having some of the nice features of the F150, and having much worse fuel economy) since it has a much higher payload capacity, and wouldn't have any issue towing the fifth wheel.

If the dealer can oblige me then I'll give them a big rave review here. They've been very helpful thus far, so I'm hoping they might pull through for me.

I'll report tomorrow on what they say.
In the meantime any other thoughts or suggestions are always welcome
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