New 10 ply tires help

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

You're right, I went back and re-read the post, I missed the part about putting a P rated tire on a truck/trailer. I agree with the de-rating a P tire when using on a trailer/truck. SORRY ABOUT THAT!! Old age and failing eyesight & brain.

No problem Neil, I edited the post to clarify that point more too.

[bbcutright]

Thanks wmtire. I have raised the air lbs to about 45lbs. I think when I pull the trailer I'll raise it another 5 or so lbs depending on how it feels. It drives entirely different with the change already, although a little more ruff it feels better controlled if you know what I mean...

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by bbcutright

Thanks wmtire. I have raised the air lbs to about 45lbs. I think when I pull the trailer I'll raise it another 5 or so lbs depending on how it feels. It drives entirely different with the change already, although a little more ruff it feels better controlled if you know what I mean...

You may need more than that, but we will discuss it further later. If I read the specs on your trailer correct earlier, you have over 900 pounds tongue weight without what else you may have added to the trailer to increase this weight.. That has to be factored in, along with truck payload (camping stuff over the manufacturers weights) to get you to a "safe" air pressure number.

We still don't know the safe psi for the wheels, but should have some flex room there.

The main thing today was to get you off the 35 psi that the dealer had put in.,,, we can figure out all the rest along with WDH stuff later.

[Tom48]

Originally Posted by tragusa3

No...crazy. A max tow rating of 11,300 on P rated tires!

That is JUST NUTS. Before I was seriously in to towing real live TTs and had only had small single axle trailers, I borrowed my friend's 25Ft+ Toy Hauler. Well I drove a 3/4 ton Chevy van with cocktail seating, shag carpet and the whole 80s deal, with big fat P "Van/Suv" tires. STILL C load range and on the 70 mile trip to where we used to camp, I blew rear tires two out of four trips. DUH. I was probably running with the radials "Smooshed" nearly flat and the heat in them must have been over the top. Go with the LT tires appropriate to the load you will be putting on them when you tow to be SAFE. the higher the axle weight then the higher the tire pressure. I have seen What WmTire has said in the past and I bet he knows more than most of us.

[Jeff from Burlington Ont]

I think the Key here is that people that purchase trucks need to check what type of load rating they have on their tires. Just like one of the other posters, I ordered my F150 eco boost specifically for towing with the help from the dealer. I only purchased a 2WD to maximize the tow capability, ordered the Max Tow package, order the rear view camera so I could back right onto my hitch etc. Unknowingly, I drove around for 3 years pulling a 5th wheel trailer on P rated tire thinking that I had heavy duty tires on because of the max tow package. Only my trusted Tire guy recognized the issue and warned me. I purchased the LT tires the next week.. So, I run my L:T tires at 80lb when towing and 50lb when not.

[djeirlessr]

Wow all this excellent information has my head spinning. My Tundra came with a tow package with P tires. I guess they didn't expect me to tow a real RV. With the P tires I got 18.5 MPG on the highway with cruise set at 65. I think my tires were P275/50R20.

My mechanic told me I should get LT tires if I'm going to be towing a RV. So I swapped out the P tires for LT tires. To get the tires I wanted I had to go with LT275/65R20. These tires raise my truck roughly 2.25 inches higher which is not a problem because my wheel wells have plenty of room.

By having the slightly larger tires my speedometer is in correct. I went out on the highway and set the cruise at 65 and my onboard computer indicated I was getting 17.5 MPG with the new tires. But that is not totally correct. Using a GPS to check my speed I am actually doing 69 miles an hour when my speedometer says I'm doing 65 and the tachometer reads the same as if I'm doing 65. So the MPG is based on the speedometer, I am assuming. When not towing I put 40 PSI and towing my FW I put 70 PSI in them for "comfort" when towing.

My DW and a made our first long distance trip from Richmond, VA area to North Fort Myers, FL and I averaged a little over 11 MPG. We traveled 1,003.7 miles and a hair over 90 gallons of gas. Had cruise set on 61 according to my GPS. Needless to say I am impressed. I guess because it is all down hill.



Duane
2011 Toyota Tundra V8 iForce 5.7 4.10 gears
2016 Crusader 295RST FW 6 speed automatic

[djeirlessr]

I forgot to mention our FW weighs 9,000 pounds dry and have maybe another 1,000 pounds of stuff in it.



Duane
2011 Toyota Tundra V8 iForce 5.7 4.10 gears
2016 Crusader 295RST FW 6 speed automatic

[CWSWine]

Originally Posted by djeirlessr

I forgot to mention our FW weighs 9,000 pounds dry and have maybe another 1,000 pounds of stuff in it.



Duane
2011 Toyota Tundra V8 iForce 5.7 4.10 gears
2016 Crusader 295RST FW 6 speed automatic

Have you scaled this? I had a Crusader at 9500 dry that on the scales jumped to 2740 pin weight ready to camp and it came with 120 lbs of tire ratings(side wall rating of 3050 per tire) on Chevy 2500 diesel rear axle at 5980 lbs.

[Airdale]

Originally Posted by bbcutright

The tires are LT275/65R18 Toya's 550KPG 80PSI Cold
The yellow sticker says P265/65R18 S cold pressure says 220kPa, 32PSI Front and Rear
Spare P265/70R17 S 240 KPa, 35 PSI.
Not sure why I have a 17 inch spare? that's crazy.

You’ve got a lot of information from this post so I’ll keep this as short as possible while still using established tire industry standards.

First. Your suburban for tire purposes is considered a truck. As such the use of Passenger (P) tires requires them to be derated. So their real load capacity at 32 PSI is 2134#. Industry standards are clear about replacements. They must provide - by inflation - as much load capacity as the Original Equipment (OE) tires. So, your replacement tires are equal to a LRC when inflated to 50 PSI which = 2535# which, IMO, would be a very good load capacity for towing things.

By the way, the lowest acceptable tire inflation pressure for your LT275/65R18 tires is 35 PSI. It’s not enough to satisfy your axles requirements.

Note: Did the installers verify that the rims meet the requirements for the replacement (LT) tires?

[bbcutright]

Airdale, That's about what I have decided was a good area to be in. It drives like a different vehicle at that rating and that's good. To my knowledge they did not verify the rims. How do you do that?

[Kenny kustom]

When I was at Ford.
I replaced many p load tires with e.

Bumped them up to 60-70 psi. Never even looked at the rims.
The rims didn't change with the tires on the fords.


2016 Sabre 36QBOK
2015 Ram 3500 CUMMINS

[Airdale]

Originally Posted by bbcutright

Airdale, That's about what I have decided was a good area to be in. It drives like a different vehicle at that rating and that's good. To my knowledge they did not verify the rims. How do you do that?

The rims are required to have the manufacturer's name and model/serial number on them. You can email or call for specs.

Another option is to go back and make the installing retailer do their job.

[MillerTime]

Originally Posted by bbcutright

Airdale, That's about what I have decided was a good area to be in. It drives like a different vehicle at that rating and that's good. To my knowledge they did not verify the rims. How do you do that?

After working for auto dealers for years. You will probably never find anyone that will answer your question about psi ratings, or hardly any info of specific wheel load rating specs for OE wheels.
Unless you have a "in" in the engineering department or from an OE supplier, you will probably never find a REAL answer to these questions.

[MillerTime]

Originally Posted by Airdale

The rims are required to have the manufacturer's name and model/serial number on them. You can email or call for specs.

Another option is to go back and make the installing retailer do their job.

I dont think you have you facts straight. Most OE vehicle wheels will have a casting mark, but most do not have part numbers let alone serial nunbers on them. If they did, it would help us out tremendously! We replace or send out to be repaired, several wheels a day. And when we order wheels, it can be a real hassle trying to get the right ones.

[wyo700]

Originally Posted by djeirlessr

I forgot to mention our FW weighs 9,000 pounds dry and have maybe another 1,000 pounds of stuff in it.



Duane
2011 Toyota Tundra V8 iForce 5.7 4.10 gears
2016 Crusader 295RST FW 6 speed automatic

Noticed in your signature you have 4.10 gears for your tundra. All tundras that came with the 5.7 came with the 4.30 rear end.

[CWSWine]

Originally Posted by MillerTime

I dont think you have you facts straight. Most OE vehicle wheels will have a casting mark, but most do not have part numbers let alone serial nunbers on them. If they did, it would help us out tremendously! We replace or send out to be repaired, several wheels a day. And when we order wheels, it can be a real hassle trying to get the right ones.

I have a set of mag wheels in storage with aluminum outer ring and magnesium centers from the early 60's that won't hold air and needs tubes - can you help me out... I really do have them to...

[Airdale]

Actually rim information is more complicated than tires. I try to keep posts to as few words as possible but often get super long winded.

The first responsibility for matching tires to rims belongs to the tire manufacturers. They must determine what rim is suitable for every tire they manufacturer. Then they must compile a listing and provide that listing to whoever is responsible for marrying the tire and rim selections together. They must also make the listing available to the public. Retailers have folders with such information.

The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) are responsible for setting the specifications for rims/wheels.

This is an excerpt from a Bridgestone/Firestone replacement tire manual (page 13). “Never exceed the maximum load capacity and/or inflation pressure of the wheel.”

Bottom line; The information is on the rim in some form. Why? Because the vehicle manufacturer has certified it to be there.

This rim thing can go on and on because it’s in print in every regulation for all situations. So, IMO, the best answer is in the tire industry standards which says match the tire to the rim by size, load capacity and tire inflation pressure. If in doubt talk to a manufacturer responsible for such fitments.

[MillerTime]

Originally Posted by Airdale

Actually rim information is more complicated than tires. I try to keep posts to as few words as possible but often get super long winded.

The first responsibility for matching tires to rims belongs to the tire manufacturers. They must determine what rim is suitable for every tire they manufacturer. Then they must compile a listing and provide that listing to whoever is responsible for marrying the tire and rim selections together. They must also make the listing available to the public. Retailers have folders with such information.

The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) are responsible for setting the specifications for rims/wheels.

This is an excerpt from a Bridgestone/Firestone replacement tire manual (page 13). “Never exceed the maximum load capacity and/or inflation pressure of the wheel.”

Bottom line; The information is on the rim in some form. Why? Because the vehicle manufacturer has certified it to be there.

This rim thing can go on and on because it’s in print in every regulation for all situations. So, IMO, the best answer is in the tire industry standards which says match the tire to the rim by size, load capacity and tire inflation pressure. If in doubt talk to a manufacturer responsible for such fitments.

Your going to have to do better than that to prove me wrong. Because im saying it is not on most OE wheels.
I need factual proof to prove otherwise. (Like a number sequence, symbol etc)

If you're going to tell us and op that we need to know our rim ratings for switching tires, you need to have real proof as to how to find this!

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by donniedu

To be of any use to you the tires need to carry 80PSI. But sadly your wheels probably cannot handle that pressure. Lets face it,you got the wrong tires for your SUV. Dealer should never have sold them or installed them on your vehicle.

I don't know where people come up with this pressure rating for wheels .
65 psi or 80 psi makes no difference to the wheel . wheels are rated for weight carrying capacity like tires never seen or heard of psi rating for wheels till i stopped by here . my TH came with 2450 6 ply d 65 psi max rated tires . i replaced them with e rated tires good for 2830 lbs at 80 psi the wheels are rated for the same 2830 . nothing about psi and to think 15 psi would make a difference to the wheel is crazy

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by northstar1960

I don't know where people come up with this pressure rating for wheels .
65 psi or 80 psi makes no difference to the wheel . wheels are rated for weight carrying capacity like tires never seen or heard of psi rating for wheels till i stopped by here . my TH came with 2450 6 ply d 65 psi max rated tires . i replaced them with e rated tires good for 2830 lbs at 80 psi the wheels are rated for the same 2830 . nothing about psi and to think 15 psi would make a difference to the wheel is crazy

https://www.etrailer.com/question-40711.html



2015 Columbus 320RS
2008 2500HD Duramax
2015 nights camped "34"