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Old 01-05-2016, 08:30 PM   #31
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: London, Kentucky
Posts: 493
I believe you can do it, you seem to believe too.
I do not see that anyone has suggested a Hensley Hitch to you, so I will!
The Hensley will eliminate sway problems and the weight distribution bars are permanently attached. I use a battery powered drill/driver with a 3/4" socket attached to adjust weight distribution and am very happy with my investment in the Hensley. (no I do not work for them, just a satisfied owner). They sell new and reconditioned, either with a lifetime warranty. Best wishes with your decision.
Travel safe

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Old 01-06-2016, 08:09 AM   #32
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Box Elder, SD (formerly NY)
Posts: 454
The short answer is YES you can. Several good points made above. My #1 recommendation would be to find and attend an RV Boot Camp. RV Boot Camp WILL make you a more knowledgeable, safer RVer. A good RV Boot Camp covers the pros and cons of motorhome vs travel trailer and, how to stay safe with whichever you choose. Towing on flat ground in ideal conditions is easy. Murphy's Law will rear its' head when things get challenging. It's VERY important to match the tow vehicle's capacities to the trailer's needs. Truck salespeople will lie in order to sell you. The experts at an RV Boot Camp will help you demystify the process. You'll get the facts you need to make informed choices. I just signed up for the RVSEF Conference (RV Safety & Education Foundation) in KY this May. Escapees will hold an RV Boot Camp before Escapade (late July in VT). Other groups run RV Boot Camps too. Some RV Boot Camps have, as an option, Driving School. If you'd like some professional training, this would be a good way to get it.

There are Solo RV groups too (some just for women). I started with a 17' Casita Travel Trailer. It was a GREAT way to start out. There is a Casita Solos group (and about half are women). I understand that Oliver now has a 23'6" fiberglass travel trailer. Oliver build quality, service, and customer support is legendary! Other companies make fiberglass units as well. Whatever you choose will set you back a fair amount of money. I know the wide array of choices is bewildering (especially when you start checking resources such as ). Take the time you need to make a well informed decision. It will sure beat "Buyer's Remorse"! Good Luck!

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Old 01-06-2016, 01:30 PM   #33
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Austin,TX
Posts: 246
I saw that trailer backing assist video. Honestly, I don't think it buys you anything. It doesn't magically let you see behind the trailer so all it's really doing is taking a knob you turn to the right, and turning the steering wheel to the left. You can just put your hand on the bottom of the wheel and accomplish exactly the same thing.

That being said, once you learn how to back a trailer, there is no reason you can't do it alone.

Source: Am a female and can do it alone!

I will say that it would be EASIER to back into sites in a MH with a backup camera. I do usually try for a pull through spot if i am arriving after dark and don't have a spotter. This wouldn't be an issue in a MH.
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Old 01-06-2016, 02:51 PM   #34
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,730
My $.02:

1. Get a trailer with 2 axles. They "walk" less and single axle trailers are more "erratic" in their movement when backing. Anything over 16-18' should have dual axles anyway, but just in case you found a shorter unit that you liked.
2. My personal recommendation is to get a Barker tongue jack and manual stabilizers. Then use a cordless drill to run your stabs up and down with. The Barker is very dependable. Many people like the power stabs, but with a drill, I only have 1 motor to worry about (the drill) and if it stops working I can swing into any WalMart or hardware store and be back up and running with no fuss.
3. I recommend looking for trailers with the a higher cargo carrying capacity (CCC). For example, let's say you are looking at two trailers similar in size and floorplan that both have a yellow sticker weight of 4500lbs. One has a CCC of 1000lbs and the other has a CCC of 2200lbs. Even if you only carry 1K of "stuff", the higher CCC trailer will have heavier load range tires and have a significant load safety margin.
4. Go with an F150 with the 3.5 Ecoboost. Find one you like that is in your budget and it WILL easily tow a trailer in the size range with no fuss. There are many other trucks out there that will easily accomplish this, but you need to take into consideration gear ratios, engine sizes, cooling capabilities and such to make SURE that the particular truck you are looking at will work. Any 3.5 Ecoboost truck will do the job- you are likely going to be in the mid 5K weight range with a camper this size.
5. Make sure the truck has a backup camera. This will make hitching/unhitching easy and straight forward.
6. Install a backup camera on the camper. Back right in to the camp site quickly and easily without needing a spotter.
7. I've never used it, but I think I'd give the Andersen hitch a try with this type of setup. You shouldn't have excessive tongue weight with a rig this size and the Andersen is very light and easy to use. Most hitches are going to be pretty difficult for most women to use as they are heavy and require significant force to move bars, tighten chains, etc.

The main towing advice I have is to make slow, shallow turns when backing. The vast majority of people I've seen that really struggle to back a trailer cut the wheel WAY too hard causing too much angle that they can't recover from. This leads to the pulling forward and backward over and over. Also contributes to "snaking" a trailer back and, if turned REALLY sharp jack-knifing. When driving, pull a little farther out into a turn before initiating the turn and then turn the wheel sharper and faster than you normally would. This will keep the trailer from cutting a corner and striking a curb or another vehicle, gas pump, gate, whatever.

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