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Old 09-21-2015, 07:21 PM   #21
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I had a 3/4 ton with a tow rating of 9900. I would pull 15000 behind it with no issues. So when I look @ trucks Numbers don`t mean nothing .
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Old 09-21-2015, 07:24 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Big Red and 30WR View Post
I had a 3/4 ton with a tow rating of 9900. I would pull 15000 behind it with no issues. So when I look @ trucks Numbers don`t mean nothing .
some of the worst advice ever. Doing it your self is bad enough. Implying nobody should worry about safety is horrible.
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Old 09-21-2015, 07:31 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Big Red and 30WR View Post
I had a 3/4 ton with a tow rating of 9900. I would pull 15000 behind it with no issues. So when I look @ trucks Numbers don`t mean nothing .

THATS IT!!
I'm trading my F350 for a Ranger..


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Old 09-21-2015, 07:37 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Kenny kustom View Post
THATS IT!!
I'm trading my F350 for a Ranger..


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Weight police breathing down your neck?


I am going to put my order in for one of these.



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Old 09-21-2015, 07:38 PM   #25
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I'm in the " as much truck as you can get" camp.


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Old 09-21-2015, 08:21 PM   #26
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Throw the bait out and see who bites. I bought a one ton diesel so whatever the numbers are I`m good to go.
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Old 09-21-2015, 09:59 PM   #27
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F450 DRW Long bed Ford Diesel

I had 2002 2500 Chevy Crew cab diesel that had 160K miles on it. I was worried about injectors, so I sold it and bought a F450 Ford diesel to pull our new FR Cedar Creek 38FL. It pulls it like a dream. Watch the gear ratio in the rear end though. Ours has a 4.31 and while it pulls the almost 17K pounds, gas mileage really sucks! On our trip to Colorado and then on to Maryland, we got less than 9 mpg. The Ford runs and pulls fine and when we bought it in FL, it had 100K on the diesel. Be careful, many long beds (8') do not fit in the standard garage, so measure carefully! Our " Big Dog" sits outside, it may not like our Michigan weather this winter!
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Old 09-21-2015, 11:46 PM   #28
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Im just gonna say it cause nobody else did..... Ford F450
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Old 09-22-2015, 11:25 AM   #29
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Next truck just maybe a freightliner. Can`t have too much truck to haul the pop up.
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Old 09-22-2015, 02:54 PM   #30
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I have never owned a dodge in 45 years of buying trucks, I owned everything except a dodge, I was shocked and my children was shocked when I bought the Ram😀💓❤️💓 love it . Best truck I have ever owned
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Old 09-23-2015, 03:23 PM   #31
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We bought a 2500 duramax in prep for the 5th wheel upgrade. Oh yeah, it'll pull anything! 10,000 gvwr.
After buying 5ver, going to the scales,(thanks ependad) we find the truck weighs 8000 already!
Looking for a srw 3500.
Research b4 you buy!!
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:16 PM   #32
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D-maxx dave.
That 2500 duramax likely does the job. For a 5th wheel I only pay attention to the rear GAWR and the vehicle GCWR. Figure the GVWR is for the vehicle and contents - stop it, start it and carry it. 5th wheel has it's own brakes, only puts load on the REAR axle (hence GAWR needs to be honored) and for pulling, it's the GCWR that counts. Been doing this a long time and have never had ANY problem using this guide. Different rules apply for TT's and pickup campers because loads are NOT over the rear axle, and/or you have to have brakes for all. I agree that in today's world, why buy a 2500 if you can get a 3500 SRW, but if you have a 2500, for a 5r, rear GAWR and GCWR tell the tale.
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:59 PM   #33
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I personally would not load a truck to Max Axle Weight Rating and ignore the tag on truck that says CAUTION never exceeds Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. A weight from a Cat Scale is STATIC weight not moving and level. Your pin weight varies while towing down hills, hitting the dip in road or even applying the brakes can increase by 30% or more so loading to max static weight of your tire/axle weights leaves no safety margins.
That said with an 8000 lbs truck you could have a 2,000 5er pin weight and you shouldn’t exceed any of your other Manufacture specifications. If you hook up your 5er and the front and rear axles weigh added together is more than 10,000 you will be outside the GVWR and over what the manufactures believes is safe margin while towing.
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:28 PM   #34
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Consider the person with a truck, 11' slide-in camper and towing a cargo trailer. Here you have the opportunity to match up all 3, the GVWR, the rear axle GAWR, and the combo GCWR. All that is within specifications, and roads, hills, stopping, starting, bouncing - all that is lumped in to the vehicle's brakes, drive line and suspension design. There is no practical difference between that setup and towing a 5th wheel that produces the same GCWR and GAWR characteristics, except, I believe most would agree, the 5th wheel tow is safer. GVWR rating is for the vehicle and the contents it has to stop and start. GAWR is the rated capacity of axle, tires and rims. If a load is directly over the axle and the load has it's own brakes, it's the GAWR that controls. In general, if you tow a brake equipped vehicle, governing capacities are the GCWR and each of the GAWRs. For many vehicles, but not all, the GVWR is the sum of the two GAWRs. I just hate to see someone trade trucks only because his/her 5th wheel puts the truck and pin box weight over the GVWR when the axle GAWRs are good, brakes are good, and towed combo GCWR is good.
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:44 PM   #35
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Just FYI:
I have 15 3500 DRW, 14,000 GVWR and in PA registration will cost you $283.00 yr or down grade to 11,000 GVWR for $200.00.

The trucks weight 8840 lbs. with full tank of fuel and 1/4 tank of DEF.
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:54 PM   #36
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registration cost is part of the price to "pay to play". I hope people don't "make due" wit too small of truck to avoid higher registration fees.

For comparison, my 2014 3500 SRW 11,600 GVWR is $98 (I think) per year in Delaware.
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