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Old 02-14-2015, 08:49 AM   #1
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Angry Newbie and very confused

Hey Everyone, Newbie here, I love the site and all the info provided...
My wife is disabled and in order for me to get her out of the house so she could enjoy life a little, I just bought an TT. (haven't picked up yet) Here's my problem, After hours of crunching numbers I'm still, or even more confused than when I started. There is a popular spreadsheet on this site for calculating towing capacities. According to this formula I should not be able to pull my boat which I've been doing for 17 years and many miles....can anyone help?
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
2007 F150 5.4L (3valve per)-- 139 inch WB-- 3.55 rear end and tow package. GVWR;-7050lbs.---Front GAWR 3450lbs---- Rear GAWR 3850 lbs GCWR;14,500lbs--- Max trailer weight;9000 lbs. I took the trailer weight and subtracted 10% for safety =8100lbs Then I subtracted another 10% from max trailer weight for "stuff"= 7200lbs. The weight of the 274RKS is 6552Lbs am I good to go? I will be installing brake controller and towing eqaulizer/stabilizer
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Old 02-14-2015, 09:18 AM   #2
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So here's my opinion on these calculators. They’reover rated, and they over think a situation that is too fluid to calculateproperly. You might have firewood one trip and not the other. Your trailer willweigh more when going for a week as opposed to a weekend. Christ! How much doesthe dog weigh? What did you eat forbreakfast that day? How many toys do the kids have? It’s a little over scrutinized.Also they want you to weigh your trailer as if it’s packed, same for the truck.That means you've already bought it, so what the point!? You can't return it ifyou find out you're over (according to the calculator). I think using your bestjudgment and going with something that you know you can handle is the safestcalculator. There is a great pinned thread on this subject called “a fool-proofmethod for judging your tow vehicle" I suggest you give it a read.
Ok bring on the hate mail!
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Old 02-14-2015, 09:28 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyCamper77 View Post
So here's my opinion on these calculators. Theyíreover rated, and they over think a situation that is too fluid to calculateproperly. You might have firewood one trip and not the other. Your trailer willweigh more when going for a week as opposed to a weekend. Christ! How much doesthe dog weigh? What did you eat forbreakfast that day? How many toys do the kids have? Itís a little over scrutinized.Also they want you to weigh your trailer as if itís packed, same for the truck.That means you've already bought it, so what the point!? You can't return it ifyou find out you're over (according to the calculator). I think using your bestjudgment and going with something that you know you can handle is the safestcalculator. There is a great pinned thread on this subject called ďa fool-proofmethod for judging your tow vehicle" I suggest you give it a read.
Ok bring on the hate mail!
No hate here, I agree with you. Here is the link to the Fool-Proof Method.
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Old 02-14-2015, 09:32 AM   #4
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I have the same truck set up and have pulled a 3001w from Ontario to BC and back 3 times. Have not had a problem with towing. I found that I did not want to push the truck too hard in the mountains and would fall in behind a large truck and follow them up. Started at bottom doing 80kph and would be down to 50kph at top (same speed as truck in front). I had the power to pass if I wanted but why push the truck. My RPM's never went over 3200. I also averaged 10mpg.
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Old 02-14-2015, 09:38 AM   #5
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Happycamper77, thank you for responding! and thanks for the laugh! Everything you said is spot on.Especially the point of taking it to weigh it, why bother. I put a deposit down but have not any signed papers, trying to get an estimate before I sign....no hate here
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Old 02-14-2015, 09:55 AM   #6
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caper, thanks, good to know, you've eased my anxiety. The TT is 27ft long. I also live in flat florida and will not be going to far due to wife's condition.I'm hoping this is going to bring back my wife's zest for life.
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Old 02-14-2015, 10:01 AM   #7
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Guys,
I am in the scale world and you guys are Correct it would be better to just Drive down the road????? I have talked to many rv's who go around and Weigh Everything that goes into there rig. It is just a waste of time like happycamper77 said.....just drive the road and Enjoy.
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Old 02-14-2015, 10:09 AM   #8
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Wow. I though my comments would unleash the fury of Zeus upon me! Lol.


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Old 02-14-2015, 10:25 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captainperry View Post
2007 F150 5.4L (3valve per)-- 139 inch WB-- 3.55 rear end and tow package. GVWR;-7050lbs.---Front GAWR 3450lbs---- Rear GAWR 3850 lbs GCWR;14,500lbs--- Max trailer weight;9000 lbs.
Looks like Ford lists the maximum trailer weight for the 4x2 at 8500 lbs, and the 4x4 at 8200 lbs. http://www.fleet.ford.com/resources/...guideApr08.pdf

Quote:
Originally Posted by captainperry View Post
The weight of the 274RKS is 6552Lbs am I good to go? I will be installing brake controller and towing eqaulizer/stabilizer
I have no idea what brand a 274RKS is, so no idea on the stats. But somethings to consider besides the weight (which is generally about 400 lbs. over the listed dry weight after adding options, propane tanks, and a battery) are the hitch weight and overall length.

Hitch weight: You need to figure out if your receiver can handle the tongue weight. Tongue weights typically run 100 lbs. over the listed dry weight, and only go up after loading the camper. There should be a sticker on your receiver that lists the weight carrying load allowed, and also a maximum weight distributing load. Figuring the listed dry weight of 6552 lbs, and a 12% tongue weight, that puts it in the800 lb. range empty. It will go up from that after loading (or should to reach the ideal tongue weight percentage of 10 to 15%). Also, the tongue weight will add to the payload of the truck. You might want to hit some scales up now with the truck loaded with passengers and expected cargo, and see if you have enough payload left to safely add the tongue weight of the trailer.

Overall length: You don't want the tail to wag the dog.......that is you don't want the trailer to push around the truck. A WDH with integrated sway control will help. A 139" wheelbase on a 1/2 ton truck is pretty substantial, but it is probably best to stay within limits. There is no "official" rules concerning that, but a general "accepted" equation is to take the tow vehicle wheelbase in inches, divide by 5, and that would the maximum "suggested" overall trailer length in feet.
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Old 02-14-2015, 10:57 AM   #10
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The weight of the 274RKS is 6552Lbs am I good to go?
Our '11 Ram 2500 ST only has a tow capacity of 9,100 & the yellow sticker empty-weight on our TT is around 6,500, same as yours... With a family of 5, dog, 5 bikes, toys, firewood, toolboxes, etc. I headed to the nearest CAT scales:

Steer Axle: 3,300
Drive Axle: 4,580
Trailer Axle: 7,340
GCVW: 15,220

Our Ram only has a GCVW rating of 15,000, so I reduced the amount of firewood & tools we carry & now make sure all tanks are totally empty. We now run under 15,000 & have everything we need to camp for 2 weeks, including a full panty, extra cooler, bikes, firewood, etc.

Although your 1/2 ton has the same tow capacity as my 3/4 ton, you will need to watch your tongue weight & total payload. However, since it's just the 2 of you, combined with a good WDH, like the Equalizer 4 or better, you should be fine.

With the 5.4L I don't see you having any problems driving in relatively flat FL as long as you keep your speed under 60... I say go for it & enjoy time together camping.
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