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Old 03-28-2017, 09:17 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by lbrjet View Post
Link plate is over tightened. Just leave it alone and check those nuts every 500 miles or so because they can loosen. Be careful not to bend it any further.


That's crazy as I used 60-75lbs of torque (can't recall the exact torque) and never over torqued it and only did those bolts once. Should I swap the two to see if they bend back?

Seems flimsy to bend that easy. TT is a good bit under 10k
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Old 03-28-2017, 09:43 PM   #62
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Contact the company. See what they think. Let us know what the response is. It is a fair question. My stuff did not bend.
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Old 03-28-2017, 09:46 PM   #63
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Yes sir, just sent them a message. Those plates look tough. Surprised they bowed. I see pics online where it's obvious why it bowed but my kobalt torque wrench is brand new so it has to be right where it needs to be
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:17 PM   #64
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That's crazy as I used 60-75lbs of torque (can't recall the exact torque) and never over torqued it and only did those bolts once. Should I swap the two to see if they bend back?

Seems flimsy to bend that easy. TT is a good bit under 10k
I have not used an Equal-iz-er in several years, but I am pretty sure the link plates are 65 ft lbs max. 75 ft lbs is too much for those plates. That is more likely the L bracket torque setting.
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:18 PM   #65
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I have not used an Equal-iz-er in several years, but I am pretty sure the link plates are 65 ft lbs max. 75 ft lbs is too much for those plates. That is more likely the L bracket torque setting.


Yea , I don't recall but it was by the book
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:22 PM   #66
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Yea , I don't recall but it was by the book

I would read that book again, because I think you might have confused the wording. Those plates will bend at 75 ft lbs pulling around the top/bottom of the frame. The L bracket is a flat plate against a flat plate, that can handle the higher torque.

My Andersen brackets are far more substantial and they are maxed out at 90 ft lbs.
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:26 PM   #67
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Yes, page 14. 65 lbs. I followed the book to a T. No guessing whatsoever. 75 is the l bracket

So will it be a problem? I'm going to talk to manufacturer and if they don't do anything, should I replace or they ok? Reverse them with other side inside plate to straighten or just go with it? Will it be dangerous?
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:31 PM   #68
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They're 12 buck so not worried. I'll replace
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:32 PM   #69
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Yes, page 14. 65 lbs. I followed the book to a T. No guessing whatsoever. 75 is the l bracket

So will it be a problem? I'm going to talk to manufacturer and if they don't do anything, should I replace or they ok? Reverse them with other side inside plate to straighten or just go with it? Will it be dangerous?
Not sure, but they are pretty good company. My bet is they will send you a new one. If not, it is likely the second least expensive part of that hitch besides the bolts.
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:34 PM   #70
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Right on, I'll hold off on ordering
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Old 03-29-2017, 08:32 AM   #71
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I'm not really sure if I'm asking this right but did you tighten the top really snug then the bottom, or vice versa? It would be pretty easy to bend the plate if you did. Finger tight one then the other and go back and fourth between the two keep equal pressure on both during the process.
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Old 03-29-2017, 09:01 AM   #72
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I'm not really sure if I'm asking this right but did you tighten the top really snug then the bottom, or vice versa? It would be pretty easy to bend the plate if you did. Finger tight one then the other and go back and fourth between the two keep equal pressure on both during the process.


Yea, I thought I was methodical. Finger tight then a couple of turns with the socket on one then the other. Back and forth until torque wrench clicked
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Old 03-29-2017, 09:17 AM   #73
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They said to flip them and see if it corrects the bow. Call em back if not and we'll go from there. Guess I'll try it and just buy more if I need to.
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Old 03-29-2017, 09:39 AM   #74
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Yea, I thought I was methodical. Finger tight then a couple of turns with the socket on one then the other. Back and forth until torque wrench clicked
Ok, I bent a set once by not doing it this way. Experience is a great teacher.
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Old 03-29-2017, 10:21 AM   #75
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Ok, I bent a set once by not doing it this way. Experience is a great teacher.


The best! Always learn from breaking something!
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Old 04-19-2017, 10:15 PM   #76
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Thinking about moving the bars up a notch to see how much more weight I can get off the truck. Is there a point where you get too much off? I'm guessing yea. Right now the sway bars are dang near level along with the trailer tongue. Is that pretty much where you want to be?

Thanks again!
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Old 04-20-2017, 06:08 AM   #77
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Mine are straight. You want to follow the directions, but once setup the truck should return to almost the same ride height as without the trailer and WD hooked up. You can take off too much off the front end. I am sure you COULD do the same in the rear but that, I can imagine, could be hard.
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Old 04-20-2017, 08:09 AM   #78
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Gotcha, probably best to leave well enough alone with everything being level. Always looking for an improvement where I can get one. Have a good day all!
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Old 04-22-2017, 04:04 PM   #79
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Just finished setting mine up. Looks straight to my eye. Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2373.jpg
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ID:	135503. Got it back to within 1/8" which I think is good enough for me.
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Old 04-22-2017, 07:28 PM   #80
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Nice trailer! Ford is cool too I suppose :-)
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