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Old 03-24-2017, 07:41 PM   #21
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Yes, and in my experience you want to know what manual says so you see all the things they do wrong.
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Old 03-24-2017, 08:02 PM   #22
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So the holes for the swat bar at hitch seem to close, can those be loosened up to make it wider? I can't get sway bars in. Any soon help is greatly appreciated!
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Old 03-24-2017, 08:11 PM   #23
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If the dealer is installing the Equal-i-zer, write down the torque settings they're supposed to use for all the bolts - especially the bolts holding the link plates on the A frame. My dealer cranked on the bolts too hard and started to bend the link plates until I stopped them and checked it with my torque wrench.

Everything will likely have to be adjusted anyway once you get the trailer loaded.
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Old 03-24-2017, 08:15 PM   #24
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So the holes for the swat bar at hitch seem to close, can those be loosened up to make it wider? I can't get sway bars in. Any soon help is greatly appreciated!
The socket bolts for the bar sockets have to be set at 45-65 ft-lbs. You should be able to move the bars after they are pinned in the sockets. I apply a bit of Equalizer lubricant on the top and bottom surfaces of the sockets and then move the bars back and forth to distribute the lubricant.
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Old 03-24-2017, 08:43 PM   #25
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Is it strange to have 7 washers and lowered the l bracket one slot? That seems to bring the front close to what it was before coupling.
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Old 03-24-2017, 08:58 PM   #26
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Well, looks like a 1/2 torque wrench doesn't go up that high and a 3/4 is insanely expensive so I'll use the truck above. Thanks Jeff64!!
Don't know what is expensive to you. Here's one for $190:

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...+torque+wrench
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Old 03-24-2017, 09:05 PM   #27
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I have one now, other ques though
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Old 03-24-2017, 09:15 PM   #28
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Is it strange to have 7 washers and lowered the l bracket one slot? That seems to bring the front close to what it was before coupling.


Having 7 washers and lowering the brackets one hole kinda negates each other to some degree. Have you tried 6 washers and having the brackets at the middle position(2 above and 2 below)?

The more washers you add the more force will be on the spring bars, so lowering the brackets reduces force on the spring bars.
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Old 03-24-2017, 09:24 PM   #29
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Yea, I should've adjusted the bars but on the hitch. Any harm in leaving this way if the numbers look good?
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Old 03-24-2017, 09:50 PM   #30
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I'm still a bit of a noob as I just got mine recently as well, but I would think as long as the bars meet the brackets and rub "flatly" on them, and the front wheel well measurements are back to or close to original, you should be ok. I would monitor the hitch coupler and the ball to make sure you've not got too much tilt on the head when negotiating changing roadway angles, as well as the clearance to the road way on the brackets and spring bars. If all that looks good I would think you're ok.
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Old 03-24-2017, 11:18 PM   #31
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I believe it's good. I may remove a washer and move the l bar back up tomorrow morning. Needs some grease which I'll do tomorrow. Didn't feel an improvement over nothing. No more bouncing but I didn't have my tires aired up when I first moved it like I do now. Definitely not going to win any speed races but the 3.08 to 3.73 change didn't help as much as I hoped but it'll do the job. Definitely know it's back there.
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Old 03-25-2017, 09:44 AM   #32
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I'm still a bit of a noob as I just got mine recently as well, but I would think as long as the bars meet the brackets and rub "flatly" on them, and the front wheel well measurements are back to or close to original, you should be ok. I would monitor the hitch coupler and the ball to make sure you've not got too much tilt on the head when negotiating changing roadway angles, as well as the clearance to the road way on the brackets and spring bars. If all that looks good I would think you're ok.


Thanks man, I had to reread this a few times but appreciate the comment
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Old 03-25-2017, 11:53 AM   #33
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Thoughts?
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Old 03-25-2017, 12:00 PM   #34
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Looks good to me
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Old 03-25-2017, 12:05 PM   #35
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Looks good to me


Right on, thanks man!
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Old 03-25-2017, 03:22 PM   #36
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Right on, thanks man!


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Here's mine. I think you're fine. Like I said, watch the items I pointed out and you should be good.
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Old 03-25-2017, 03:28 PM   #37
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I really want to do it myself to learn this thing. If someone does it for me, I won't learn it as well. Trial and error is the best teacher.
I would check with one of your local auto parts store. Most of them will allow you to borrow tools with a deposit. I know auto zone, o Rialeys do in my area.
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Old 03-25-2017, 05:17 PM   #38
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Oh man, what a difference it made. I pulled without once it it was a little scary. Not the bit this time. I'm sold! What a great purchase! Next up... tires! More HP might be needed too but oh well
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Old 03-25-2017, 06:17 PM   #39
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Oh man, what a difference it made. I pulled without once it it was a little scary. Not the bit this time. I'm sold! What a great purchase! Next up... tires! More HP might be needed too but oh well
Going to pull mine to dealer and get hitch installed. I will also be able to tell difference
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Old 03-25-2017, 08:06 PM   #40
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Going to pull mine to dealer and get hitch installed. I will also be able to tell difference


With the right wrench, the ball isn't too bad. The shank bolts were a little tough. 2 people to hold the bolt and nut. All in all I'm very happy I did it myself. Adjusting will be a breeze now that I understand how it works
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