Newbie towing capacity question

[elika63]

Ken, but doesn't the Propride-Hensley config eliminate or seriously reduce sway? I assumed that adding that ridiculously priced hitch would make for better handling in harsh conditions, or when a larger truck screams by.

[dustman_stx]

elika, there is no consensus on your question. My personal conclusion is that, particularly on 1/2 ton trucks, you can make a few basic modifications that will allow you to safely carry more weight on the chassis. My advice to you would be to add air bags, better rear shocks (I recommend Rancho RS9000XL as they are adjustable for better unloaded ride comfort), and LT tires. I would also go with the ProPride 3P hitch. Attempt to load as light as possible in the truck. Load most items in the camper- this means the truck only sees 12% or so of the weight as opposed to 100%. But don't overload the camper, either. After you've done all of this, take the rig out and see what you think. I think you'll find you've got a very nice handling rig that is completely safe and will have NO SWAY, thanks to the ProPride. I'm pulling a longer and heavier trailer right now with my F150 and a ProPride than I did with 2 different F250's and a cheap hitch. I'll take the 150 with the ProPride any day- much safer IMHO now that sway is eliminated.

[Mrs Evans]

Hi Dustman, our F150 has Michelin LTX A/S tires - would you happen to know whether these are LT tires? I do not want to assume just b/c 'LT' is in the name and I tried Google-ing it but have not found an answer, it all sounds greek to me, lol! Otherwise, what type/brand of tire do you use? Also, thanks for sharing your experience

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by Mrs Evans

Hi Dustman, our F150 has Michelin LTX A/S tires - would you happen to know whether these are LT tires? I do not want to assume just b/c 'LT' is in the name and I tried Google-ing it but have not found an answer, it all sounds greek to me, lol! Otherwise, what type/brand of tire do you use? Also, thanks for sharing your experience

Imo Firestone transforce e rated lt is the best bang for the buck.

Had 4 sets on two trucks and love them

Turbs

[elika63]

Dustman, thanks! That is what I was thinking (at least with the 3P hitch). Doesn't the 3P add another 200lbs or so though? The rv dealer wants to sell me some crappy Wd hitch but I'm pretty much sold on the Propride since I'm brand new at trailering and not ready for white knuckle driving. My plan is only to tow occasionally, like camping or when we move from the west coast back to the east (taking two vehicles so less pax in my truck). I am game for upgrading my tires to LTs - is there a certain type I should go with or stay away from? I wasn't prepared for the shock upgrade, however, my truck is already equipped with the max trailering option, oil tyranny cooler, and has airbags of course. Anything I am missing? I assumed the rv dealer wouldn't let me off the lot unless all the numbers were correct but maybe I'm wrong and they just want to make a sale? I would think that would be illegal but perhaps it's on me, not them.

[Mrs Evans]

Cool! Thanks for the recommendation Turbs!

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by Mrs Evans

Cool! Thanks for the recommendation Turbs!

Your welcome!
Tread wear is amazing!

Turbs

[Happy Vibe]

To find out if they are LT tires you need to look at the sidewall and look for a number like LT265-70r17. If the number has LT as the first letter (as the example) you have LT tires. If it has P you have passenger tires. As far as a brand goes it depends on the size of you tire, if they are 20 inch you will have a lot less choice than if you have 17 inch.

[KenHwy61]

All the add-ons help but ultimately you will have decide for yourself as to what makes you comfortable while towing. People tow large trailers with 1/2 tons all the time. For me at least, it is the of piece of mind of not having to worry about everything being pushed to the limit. Maybe you should buy the trailer, tow it around and see how it goes. Everything could very well be just fine.

[dustman_stx]

Originally Posted by Mrs Evans

Hi Dustman, our F150 has Michelin LTX A/S tires - would you happen to know whether these are LT tires? I do not want to assume just b/c 'LT' is in the name and I tried Google-ing it but have not found an answer, it all sounds greek to me, lol! Otherwise, what type/brand of tire do you use? Also, thanks for sharing your experience

If you look at the size of the tire on the tire itself, it should say either LT or P, followed by the size. We have some tire experts on here that can tell you if this is the case across the board. Also, there are different load ratings for LT tires. A load range E will give you the stiffest sidewall. Max PSI on a LRE is 80psi, which you cannot inflate to on typical 1/2 ton wheels. Most folks that run them just inflate them to the max PSI of the wheel, in most cases I think this is ~50PSI.

[elika63]

Ken, thanks. My thoughts exactly. When I purchase this trailer (most likely in Dec) my first drive will only be 200 miles with some mountain climbs but for the most part highway driving. It won't be until next spring when I take it out again. That next trip will be about 400 miles.

To everyone else so far, thanks a ton for the input. I'm learning a lot, although becoming more frustrated that I didn't just drop 75k on a bigger rig and be done with it!

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by elika63

I assumed the rv dealer wouldn't let me off the lot unless all the numbers were correct but maybe I'm wrong and they just want to make a sale? I would think that would be illegal but perhaps it's on me, not them.

Very few RV dealers would jeopardize a sale due to a mismatched truck/trailer combo.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by ependydad

Very few RV dealers would jeopardize a sale due to a mismatched truck/trailer combo.

Funny enough my dealer warned me I was near capacity when I left his lot with my 2500 HD gasser and sabre 5th wheel.
Year after that the duramax fit the bill.

Turbs

[goduc]

Several issues here.
1st your dry tongue weight of 915lbs is going to be 1015lbs after adding kid stuff and a battery to the front of the TT. Now throw in the HA/PP @200lbs and you're at 1215lbs. You need to look on your receiver and see what the max tow rating is with WD. I really doubt it's rated for 1200+lbs. If it is then you're safe.

2nd, those are dry weights so add lbs to all. That 7197lb dry weight will be 73-7400lbs when delivered. That means the tongue weight will also be higher. My guess is with kids you'll be at 82-8400lbs. IMO way, way too much for a 1/2 ton even with an HA/PP. You'll be working the crude out of that 5.3.

3rd. Payload.
600lbs pass
200 HA?PP
1200 TW
2000lbs.

You only have 1536lbs of payload. You're in the hole 464lbs. Changing to LT tires won't help. They will only make your truck ride harsher. You issue is the trucks RAWR of 3950lbs. Air bags won't help with that either. They may help level things out but they won't increase your RAWR.

JMHO but I really feel you need to look at for a TT with a lighter TW. Your problem is common to all (except the F150 HD) 1/2 ton trucks. Overstated tow ratings that will never be realized because of the trucks low payload numbers. You'll likely be over the trucks GVW, RAWR, FAWR and GCVWR. You'll also be close to maxing out the TT's CCC. It's only 1553lbs per brochure. Add in the Platinum package as well as any other options and that could drop the CCC to 13-1400lbs. The average family or couple packs about 1000lbs into their trailers. If you have access to the TT you should check the shipping sticker. It's not uncommon for the delivered trailer to be different than the brochure for weights. All manufactures ,make changes during the year and don't update their web site to reflect changes.

Here's one for sale. It's shipping sticker says 7330lbs. CCC is about the same.
http://www.funtownrv.com/product/new...06wk-207517-29

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

Funny enough my dealer warned me I was near capacity when I left his lot with my 2500 HD gasser and sabre 5th wheel.
Year after that the duramax fit the bill.

Turbs

When I was shopping, I had more than 1 dealer tell me they'd help me pick a truck to match the campers we were looking at. One told me, "You know, you're going to need a real truck for something like that. You can't just buy a 150." It still makes me chuckle. I assured him 3500/DRW was in our future. (That said and before folks get all defensive- 150s have a time and place. I'm not saying they're bad, the comment just made me chuckle.)

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by goduc

Several issues here.
1st your dry tongue weight of 915lbs is going to be 1015lbs after adding kid stuff and a battery to the front of the TT. Now throw in the HA/PP @200lbs and you're at 1215lbs. You need to look on your receiver and see what the max tow rating is with WD. I really doubt it's rated for 1200+lbs. If it is then you're safe.

2nd, those are dry weights so add lbs to all. That 7197lb dry weight will be 73-7400lbs when delivered. That means the tongue weight will also be higher. My guess is with kids you'll be at 82-8400lbs. IMO way, way too much for a 1/2 ton even with an HA/PP. You'll be working the crude out of that 5.3.

3rd. Payload.
600lbs pass
200 HA?PP
1200 TW
2000lbs.

You only have 1536lbs of payload. You're in the hole 464lbs. Changing to LT tires won't help. They will only make your truck ride harsher. You issue is the trucks RAWR of 3950lbs. Air bags won't help with that either. They may help level things out but they won't increase your RAWR.

JMHO but I really feel you need to look at for a TT with a lighter TW. Your problem is common to all (except the F150 HD) 1/2 ton trucks. Overstated tow ratings that will never be realized because of the trucks low payload numbers. You'll likely be over the trucks GVW, RAWR, FAWR and GCVWR. You'll also be close to maxing out the TT's CCC. It's only 1553lbs per brochure. Add in the Platinum package as well as any other options and the could drop the CCC to 13-1400lbs. The average family or couple packs about 1000lbs into their trailers. If you have access to the TT you should check the shipping sticker. It's not uncommon for the delivered trailer to be different than the brochure for weights. All manufactures ,make changes during the year and don't update their web site to reflect changes.

his tongue weight would be higher.
Don't forget 2 30 lb tanks of propane.
And anything ahead of the axles.


Turbs

[dustman_stx]

Originally Posted by elika63

Dustman, thanks! That is what I was thinking (at least with the 3P hitch). Doesn't the 3P add another 200lbs or so though? The rv dealer wants to sell me some crappy Wd hitch but I'm pretty much sold on the Propride since I'm brand new at trailering and not ready for white knuckle driving. My plan is only to tow occasionally, like camping or when we move from the west coast back to the east (taking two vehicles so less pax in my truck). I am game for upgrading my tires to LTs - is there a certain type I should go with or stay away from? I wasn't prepared for the shock upgrade, however, my truck is already equipped with the max trailering option, oil tyranny cooler, and has airbags of course. Anything I am missing? I assumed the rv dealer wouldn't let me off the lot unless all the numbers were correct but maybe I'm wrong and they just want to make a sale? I would think that would be illegal but perhaps it's on me, not them.

The 3P is heavier than other hitches. My guess is an extra 50-80lbs over an Equalizer 4pt, but others may be able to tell you exactly. I would absolutely, 100% recommend the 3P. If you were towing at, say 80% or less of your max and the trailer was in the 27' or less range, I'd say go with the Equalizer 4 point. I would NEVER go back to a standard chain type with friction bar, though. Hitching and unhitching are more difficult with a 3P than a standard ball. I would recommend searching Youtube as there are some good videos showing the process. Once you understand how it works, it won't be difficult, but it is a more precise operation. If you already have air bags I'd say tow and see what you think. If you have porpoising(your truck feels like you're riding a dolphin down the hiway-not anywhere near that extreme, but a slight up and down) you can replace the shocks and dampen that motion.

[elika63]

Goduc, where do I find my max tow rating of my receiver?

[dustman_stx]

Originally Posted by goduc

Several issues here.
1st your dry tongue weight of 915lbs is going to be 1015lbs after adding kid stuff and a battery to the front of the TT. Now throw in the HA/PP @200lbs and you're at 1215lbs. You need to look on your receiver and see what the max tow rating is with WD. I really doubt it's rated for 1200+lbs. If it is then you're safe.

2nd, those are dry weights so add lbs to all. That 7197lb dry weight will be 73-7400lbs when delivered. That means the tongue weight will also be higher. My guess is with kids you'll be at 82-8400lbs. IMO way, way too much for a 1/2 ton even with an HA/PP. You'll be working the crude out of that 5.3.

3rd. Payload.
600lbs pass
200 HA?PP
1200 TW
2000lbs.

You only have 1536lbs of payload. You're in the hole 464lbs. Changing to LT tires won't help. They will only make your truck ride harsher. You issue is the trucks RAWR of 3950lbs. Air bags won't help with that either. They may help level things out but they won't increase your RAWR.

JMHO but I really feel you need to look at for a TT with a lighter TW. Your problem is common to all (except the F150 HD) 1/2 ton trucks. Overstated tow ratings that will never be realized because of the trucks low payload numbers. You'll likely be over the trucks GVW, RAWR, FAWR and GCVWR. You'll also be close to maxing out the TT's CCC. It's only 1553lbs per brochure. Add in the Platinum package as well as any other options and that could drop the CCC to 13-1400lbs. The average family or couple packs about 1000lbs into their trailers. If you have access to the TT you should check the shipping sticker. It's not uncommon for the delivered trailer to be different than the brochure for weights. All manufactures ,make changes during the year and don't update their web site to reflect changes.

You see my point about there being no consensus??? After seeing my cousins Tundra frame rolled up like a taco the entire length of the bed after he rear-ended a semi with a cattle trailer attached and the receiver still looked flawless, I don't think I'd worry too much about it. Pretty much every receiver installed on trucks in the late 90's, even the 1 ton and 3/4 tons, were rated at 500lbs TW without WD. There is no telling how many millions of miles have been racked up towing significantly heavier than that. Every time we hooked up to our 16' cattle trailer we had already exceeded that, then we'd load up several thousand pounds of cattle. Ever seen one of those bumper pull hay trailers with 5 or 6 large round bales of hay on them? They typically run a 2 5/16" ball and can weigh 12,000 pounds loaded. Until the manufacturers started installing the newer 2.5" receivers, those were being pulled with receiver rated at 500/5000 with no WDH, less than half what they were being loaded with regularly.

Edit: I'll also add that, though I haven't experimented, you can likely load the tongue lighter with the PP because you aren't going to have sway. I'm talking about shooting for a 10% TW, which is still within recommended spec, putting you at mid 800's rather than 100, and only 100lbs or so over your GVWR.

[Windjammin]

No, adding LT tires will not change the GVWR of the truck. You probably have P rated tires that at 44 psi have a capacity of 2400 pounds per tire or a total of 9600 pounds. Your truck is only rated for 7000 pounds so the tires are not the limiting factor. A 3/4 ton truck with LT tires has a greater capacity because the frame and other components are heavier and thus capable of higher weights.