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Old 10-20-2014, 05:54 PM   #21
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I paid under 48000 for a 2014 3500 cclb. Rides better than some half tons I've had
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Old 10-20-2014, 05:57 PM   #22
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I noticed you said this is new adventure. I bought 2 trucks and 2 trailers in 2 years.....I run the B&W turnover ball setup in a 2012 F350 DRW diesel. Not towing, the truck was averaging close to 16mpg with mixed driving (city/hwy), towing is around 10mpg with a 42', 15k lb. trailer. My buddy has a F250 and was getting around 19mpg, mostly highway. Safety and stability were what mattered most to me, and the DRW is what I opted for, and it took all the questions out. When you mention toyhauler, I definitely think 1 ton for sure, and I'm sure if you cruise the interstate, you'll see lots of people doing it differently. The ultimate decision is what will get YOU there safely, and without causing harm to others.
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Old 10-20-2014, 06:06 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davel1971 View Post
I paid under 48000 for a 2014 3500 cclb. Rides better than some half tons I've had
Due to dealer screw up, I paid a little south of $43k.


Quote:
Originally Posted by LaydBack View Post
I noticed you said this is new adventure. I bought 2 trucks and 2 trailers in 2 years.....I run the B&W turnover ball setup in a 2012 F350 DRW diesel. Not towing, the truck was averaging close to 16mpg with mixed driving (city/hwy), towing is around 10mpg with a 42', 15k lb. trailer. My buddy has a F250 and was getting around 19mpg, mostly highway. Safety and stability were what mattered most to me, and the DRW is what I opted for, and it took all the questions out. When you mention toyhauler, I definitely think 1 ton for sure, and I'm sure if you cruise the interstate, you'll see lots of people doing it differently. The ultimate decision is what will get YOU there safely, and without causing harm to others.
I get about 16 mpgs with my chevy. I don't feel as though my ride is all that rougher than my old cushy armada. The only time I notice it is when I get chucking from the fiver. Working on a solution to that problem now. The b&w turnover is probably the best solution out there for using the bed.
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Old 10-20-2014, 06:49 PM   #24
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well I just looked at the Chevy web-site....

Joel...are you referring to the weight that goes in the bed from the 5th er tongue weight?
I see the 2500 can take almost 2800lbs and the 3500 can handle lots more like 4300lbs.....well this is max payload numbers ... I guess whatever you got except the basic truck??? I have seen several 5ther's with 'pin' 'tongue' or whatever you call it weight in the 2500-2800 lb range...so I guess this does take it out of the 3/4 ton capability huh..?
Am I right with all this?

Damn....this thing keeps growing & growing!!!

OP I think you are doing this the right way - get your info before spending your cash

A small 5th TH like
Stealth Toy Hauler Fifth Wheel by Forest River
can have a pin weight over 3500 lbs when using the 25% numbers
A big 5th TH like
Catalyst Toy Hauler Fifth Wheel by Forest River
can have a pin weight over 6000 lbs using the 25% rule

Know your numbers - Learn To RV: Towing Pin/Tongue Weight Calculator

For a 5th hitch --
B & W Trailer Hitches | Trailer, Tow & Truck Hitches
&
Reese - 20K / 22K / 25K Fifth Wheel

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Old 10-20-2014, 06:50 PM   #25
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No one has asked the original poster what his needs are. As in, what does he intend to put in the TH? How many people are going to be with him? If it's just him and a motorcycle, he doesn't need a 43' long TH with a 2900# pin weight, and a 2500, short bed, SRW with a B&W system and 30' 5th wheel TH will work just fine for him. Stop trying to sell him more set-up than he may need!

So, to the OP: what is going in the toy hauler, how many people will be traveling with you normally, and how long of a rig do you anticipate wanting or needing? Let's answer these questions, and go from there.
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Old 10-20-2014, 07:03 PM   #26
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Thanks Everyone!! lots of info....

in an earlier post I kinda laid out what I'm looking for....
Primarily just me with occasional guests..
I have a sport 4-wheeler & a sport-touring bike....about 1000lbs between the two.
1000lbs tools/BS
couple of bicycles/surfboards/snowboards
want a front bedroom set up
100 gal H2O...Generator
not really concerned about slide-outs...

I was figuring I would only be able to afford something on the smaller scale of 5th wheels???
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Old 10-20-2014, 07:09 PM   #27
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SGT Shultz...I like that first one you linked...the Stealth... can you tell me what something like that costs new? If you know..or anyone?

good info on the hitch too. thx..
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Old 10-20-2014, 07:26 PM   #28
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Skydrifter - sorry I am north of the 49th - the prices up here will be a whole lot more than your neck of the woods
looking here Giant RV I would guess in the 35 to 40k before negotiations - or less depending on the State you find the one you like in
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Old 10-20-2014, 07:29 PM   #29
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Skydrifter - I think you've got the cart (truck) before the horse (5th wheel). I suggest you decide what 5th wheel toy hauler you want, then find a truck that is MORE than capable of towing it. My experience - I bought a 2005 Titanium toy hauler that was 40 feet long and fairly light at 13,500 pounds. Had it delivered to a campground and paid the delivery driver to have it weighed on truck scales. I knew exactly what the pin and total weights were BEFORE I went truck shopping. I bought an 05 F350 SRW short box and Pullrite Superglide hitch. I found that the F350 was only a few hundred dollars more than the F250 but had a much higher cargo capacity (ability to carry the pin weight of the trailer). The ride when not towing was very smooth and I used the truck for a daily driver for 7 years. Why can't you take a test ride in a few 1 tons and 2500's and decide for yourself.
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Old 10-20-2014, 07:39 PM   #30
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3/4 tons are not worth buying in my opinion if you are going to be towing anything. Virtually no price difference to get a single wheel 1 ton.

And before someone says it, NO airbags aren't the solution
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Old 10-20-2014, 08:36 PM   #31
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I just traded my '11 2500 LTZ oil burner for a '15 3500 LTZ dually oil burner last month. I also have the B&W Turnover Ball with the Companion Slider. Great set up. Leaves the bed completely empty when removed.
I got a long bed this time because I want to put in a toolbox fuel cel combo. I noticed a pretty big difference in pulling the 5r through the Hill Country which is pretty curvy. The dually handled much better than the single wheeled 2500.
I actually paid only around 2K more for this 3500 than I did for the 2500. Well worth it. I kinda wished I would of bought the 3500 back in '11 but then I would of missed the new interior and extra room the crew cab has. The bed lights are also nice.
Like it was mentioned earlier if your thinking of a 2500 you might as well get the 3500. Either single wheel or a dually.



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Old 10-20-2014, 08:44 PM   #32
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Here is my $0.02. Make sure you put "your" eyes on the yellow "Tire and Loading Information" sticker inside the door jamb of an already built truck that matches your truck's specifications if you intend to order or buy off the lot.....because this sticker will dictate what you are legally allowed to carry.....regardless of the manufacturer's marketing brochure. At least for Ford, their towing and capacity tables are all based on the entry level trim models without options in order to maximize the numbers to compete with the other brands.

In Ford's case, if you decide to get the XLT, Lariat, King Ranch or Platinum trim levels package....all those extra bells and whistles (power leather seats, running boards, extra speakers, heated towing mirrors, extra battery, bigger wheels and tires, etc) will only subtract from the starting maximum gross vehicle weight rating listed in the brochure. For example for the F250, the GVWR is capped at 10,000 lbs.....but after subtracting for the weight of the diesel, 4x4, crew cab and one of the upper end packages you will substantially reduce the effective 5th wheel towing capacity. A loaded F250 4x4 PSD Crew Cab Platinum will leave you somewhere less than 1900lbs for cargo and passengers. When you subtract 200lbs for the 5th wheel hitch and add in a couple of extra passengers you will probably no longer be able to legally tow a 5th wheel as there are very very few 5th wheels that have pin weights less than 1500 lbs. Much less a toy hauler. The identical F350 will allow over 3,000lbs of cargo capacity because of the higher 11,500 lb GVWR.

Definitely get the 3500 (F350, etc) as you will need the additional 1500 lbs plus of cargo capacity. Will the 2500 tow it? Probably. Will you be legal? Most likely not unless you are going entry level 4x2 and a gasser.

Sure the 2500 rides better, but better to be safer and properly rated. Put the brochures down and go read the yellow sticker!!!
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Old 10-21-2014, 07:30 AM   #33
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I am looking to get a new 5th wheel and pickup within the next 2 years. Even though I am looking at fairly lite 5th wheels under 33' long, I am only considering a 1 ton pickup. Here are some of the reasons:

Many 3/4 ton diesel pickups only have a 2000 lb. payload capacity. Those bad boys weigh in the neighborhood of 8000 lbs., and have 10,000 lb. GVWR. Attach 100 lbs. of 5th wheel hitch, add about 400 lb. with 2 passengers and a dog, and that drops down to 1500 lbs. of usable payload for pin weight. The 5th wheel trailers that I have been viewing have listed empty pin weights of 1800-2000 lbs......and that will only grow after I start adding stuff to the basement.

A 1 ton truck is about $1000 more than a 3/4 ton truck with the same options. If I am going to spend over $50,000 on a new truck, that is only a 2% price shift.....a small price to pay for the added payload and safety.

If I do decide to go to a bigger 5th wheel in the future, then my bases should be covered.....if I don't go too big.

A 1 ton SRW short bed pickup has the same exterior measurements as a 3/4 ton truck....except for height. I want a truck that can used as a touring vehicle, so I am not considering a long bed dually. If I were considering a long bed dually, i would consider an F450 or Chebby/Dodge 4500 for the extra capacity, but I have not even priced those puppies.
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Old 10-21-2014, 08:36 AM   #34
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3/4 tons are not worth buying in my opinion if you are going to be towing anything. Virtually no price difference to get a single wheel 1 ton.

And before someone says it, NO airbags aren't the solution
Yeah, airbags aren't the solution because there are several other differences between a 3/4 and SRW 1 ton. davel1971, would you mind enlightening us on what they are?

My experience has been that there are WAY more 3/4 tons on lots than there are SRW 1 tons. If you are picky about colors and options, you might have issues finding a SRW 1 ton in stock. If you plan to buy at the end of the model year, like right now, you might not be able to find a SRW 1 ton at all setup like you want, whereas 3/4 tons are probably still easy to find. Given the fact that there are lots of incentives at the end of a model year, you might well pay a substantial amount more to get a SRW than you would a 3/4 ton. The difference in sticker price is not always the same difference in what you will actually pay. IF I could actually get a SRW like I wanted and ACTUALLY pay only a few hundred different, then yes, I would opt for the SRW.
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Old 10-21-2014, 01:26 PM   #35
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Problem is....no 1 tons for sale brand new right now (can't find a test drive)....thinking I'm just getting the 1 ton & be done with it.
In the past all the 1 tons I rode in were really rough to ride in when empty...however, I understand new models ride much better when empty now-a-days. I just don't want to be under gunned out there......I'm thinking its gonna be a 1 ton!
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Old 10-21-2014, 01:33 PM   #36
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thanks Nole-Fan.....You guys certainly pulled one off the other night!!!!!

I do get your math & it looks like I like I just need to get the 1 ton. period.
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Old 10-21-2014, 01:46 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by SKYDRIFTER350 View Post
Problem is....no 1 tons for sale brand new right now (can't find a test drive)....thinking I'm just getting the 1 ton & be done with it.

In the past all the 1 tons I rode in were really rough to ride in when empty...however, I understand new models ride much better when empty now-a-days. I just don't want to be under gunned out there......I'm thinking its gonna be a 1 ton!

When I picked up my dually last month I was at the dealer getting my washer fluid jug replaced under warranty. I just walked over to check the dually out to see the new '15 interior upgrades and the extra room they added to the crew cab. It was the only one in the lot and it just came in on a dealer trade.
I had browsed on line and found very few. It rides just a tad stiffer than the '11 2500 I traded in. The great handling when pulling the 5r more than makes up for it.


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Old 10-21-2014, 02:04 PM   #38
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so...short bed = slider hitch
long bed = reg hitch
WTF...OVER

does slider hitch suck?
guy at hitch shop wasn't very talkative....

I guess I just need long bed...huh?
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Old 10-21-2014, 02:18 PM   #39
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so...short bed = slider hitch
long bed = reg hitch
WTF...OVER

does slider hitch suck?
guy at hitch shop wasn't very talkative....

I guess I just need long bed...huh?
I work my 250, I haul more than just the FW and find the 8 foot bed indispensable given the tool chest bolted in the bed.


So if you haul other stuff then go long.
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Old 10-21-2014, 02:19 PM   #40
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I have a short beef and tow our sabre around 20 trips a year. Never had a close call and I don't have a slider. That said, if the companion slider hitch was available when I bought, I may have spent the money for it. There are options like the super glide that make it easy, but they're more expensive too.
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