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Old 06-08-2016, 03:53 PM   #21
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Be careful with CAT scale. Their "official" policy is on one side weights. Some locations even have guard rail close to side so you can't get off the platform.

In that case you have to assume you are about 47/53 for smaller TT to 45/55 for motorhomes or V-large 5vers with residential refrig.

Once you do get "4-Corner" weight as with RVSEF you can do a simple once a year check on axle only on CAT just to be sure those extra bowling balls you started to carry haven't changed your total axle weights too much.
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Old 06-25-2016, 06:22 PM   #22
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The hitch has adjustment holes so I was able to re-bolt it and get it 2 inches higher. When I place a level on the bottom frame rail it is now just slightly nose heavy but it is much closer to being level than it was in the old position.

It now looks tail heavy when simply eye-balling it, but I suppose the body could be lower in the back.

I'm curious to know what you guys think is the right way to determine when the 5er is level. Frame rails or another way?

Btw, the reason for moving the nose higher is to help balance the weight between the front and rear axles.
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Old 06-27-2016, 02:53 PM   #23
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The frame rails are the proper way to determine level. Every thing is derived from the frame (or should be).
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Old 06-27-2016, 04:50 PM   #24
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Thanks for the confirmation.

I've been reading where some say to measure frame-to-ground at the front and rear of trailer instead of using a bubble level. That makes sense in case the road is not level.
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Old 06-28-2016, 11:16 AM   #25
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That is true. If the road isn't level then you can't rely on a 'level' to know if the RV is parallel to the surface.

Of course, this only applies to towing. When camping, you want the RV Level no matter what the pad is.
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