Porpoising Issues

[Lins]

Originally Posted by EvvTraveler

Yeap! I installed the new shank last night (8" drop). I'm still at the lowest holes but I'm now level with the coupler on the trailer when it is also level. Once loaded, it still kinda looks a little nose high but according the the level in the RV, we are pretty much level (a little high side but level). I didn't have the truck loaded for a trip yet and we are still missing some stuff in the RV. I think it will level out just fine.

We are going this afternoon to weigh. I also found that my tires on the RV were on the low side and will correct as well. I also plan to inflate my rear tires on the truck to their max cold PSI.

So we'll see how this weekends trip goes.

I hope that works out for you. It's a real nice looking truck and trailer combo.

Is that your burnout mark???

[EvvTraveler]

Originally Posted by dmdomokos

Mine moved up and down over bumps, I went to the 2 1/2 and it's more solid. Also went 10" drop. Mine sits a little more nose down than your last picture.

I'm still going to look into a 2.5" shank at some point. I hate using reducers for anything, let alone towing.

I swear it's the photo that makes it look more nose high. Here's another image, taken at the same time, but from more of a direct line towards the trailer. Looks better here and I think reflects what our bubble level was telling us.

[EvvTraveler]

Originally Posted by Lins

I hope that works out for you. It's a real nice looking truck and trailer combo.

Is that your burnout mark???

Thanks!

Ha! I bet whoever did that didn't realize that just around the corner lives a city cop and sheriff. ;-)

[m2kamp]

Originally Posted by EvvTraveler

Yeah, the slop I'm talking about is with just the hitch head on. I just wasn't sure even with the tongue weight if it would also move around a bit when going over bumps and such (which causes the porpoising).

The 12" drop shank I use puts my trailer very slightly nose down without the WD bars and level with them engaged. I also like that it is about 4 inches longer than the e2 supplied one and puts more distance from the tongue jack to my tailgate.

My tongue weight is about 950 pounds though (tongue heavy bias trailer), so unless I am speeding while driving offroad it never bounces. I could see how with a lighter tongue load and heavy trailer, overpasses and rough road could give you problems, especially with a sleeve.

[EvvTraveler]

Originally Posted by m2kamp

My tongue weight is about 950 pounds though (tongue heavy bias trailer), so unless I am speeding while driving offroad it never bounces. I could see how with a lighter tongue load and heavy trailer, overpasses and rough road could give you problems, especially with a sleeve.

When we first left the parking lot last night, it seemed worse. But we took the interstate for several miles and it did just fine (even going over overpasses, it bounced but corrected well enough). I think I'm close and even though my wife will hate to hear it, I may need to purchase a 2.5" shank with a lower drop. This weekends travels will tell the tale though.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by EvvTraveler

Thanks!

Ha! I bet whoever did that didn't realize that just around the corner lives a city cop and sheriff. ;-)

Maybe they were running from the city cop or sheriff!

[dmdomokos]

Originally Posted by EvvTraveler

I'm still going to look into a 2.5" shank at some point. I hate using reducers for anything, let alone towing.



I swear it's the photo that makes it look more nose high. Here's another image, taken at the same time, but from more of a direct line towards the trailer. Looks better here and I think reflects what our bubble level was telling us.

Still looks like going an 1" or so lower at the tongue might help, especially since your fresh water tank is in the rear. You may need to tow with water some day.

[dmdomokos]

BTW mine still does porpoise slightly with the E2. Thought about an E4 a few times but it's not that bad.

[EvvTraveler]

Originally Posted by dmdomokos

Still looks like going an 1" or so lower at the tongue might help, especially since your fresh water tank is in the rear. You may need to tow with water some day.

Yeah. We had fresh water and a full black water tank while doing the setup. It was back heavy for sure. He had also just installed our 26lb foam mattress pad (which is in the back).

What I don't understand though is that I did all the measurements and my ball and the coupler were at the same height almost exactly. I think once we get the trailer and the truck better loaded for a trip it may help a bit more. Again, I'll know more this weekend.

Again, thanks to you all for your responses to this thread! Looks like a great community here!

[5picker]

Let us know how it goes.

[EvvTraveler]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Let us know how it goes.

We had a great weekend! Unfortunately we did not get to weigh though. One of our dogs had to be taken to the vet suddenly Friday afternoon (everything is fine as it turns out) so that put us behind schedule.

There was still some porpoising but things were very manageable. I wish I had more experience to better understand what is normal and what is not. I still feel that something isn't right and it might well be that this is not the WDS for our setup now. I will continue to adjust though.

Here's a pic after we had just dumped our tanks on Sunday.

[dmdomokos]

I would still try the 2 1/2" shank 10" or whatever length allows you to go about 1-2" lower in the nose. I found that's what worked for us with the E2. The other option would be the E4.

[EvvTraveler]

Originally Posted by dmdomokos

I would still try the 2 1/2" shank 10" or whatever length allows you to go about 1-2" lower in the nose. I found that's what worked for us with the E2. The other option would be the E4.

I've started looking for the 2.5 shanks. Any suggestions?

[dmdomokos]

I bought the actual Equalizer one from etrailer.com. 10" drop worked for me but be sure to measure.

[EvvTraveler]

I'm thinking this one will work but will confirm.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...0-02-4900.html

[goduc]

JMHO here but with the axles almost centered on that TT I don't think you'll ever get rid of the porpusing or bounce. Because that TT has a lot of weight in the rear, even though you may have the correct TW, you're going to get that teetor totter effect.
BTDT with another brand.
Hopefully I'm wrong and you do get it dialed in. But from reading about your fixes and none really making that big of a difference I think it's the nature of the beast.
When I was trying to dial in my previous TT, I too was on forums trying to get some help. Guys were saying all I needed was another washer or grab another link, add more tongue weight, etc and that those tricks solved their problems. No matter what I tried I could never get the bounce out. WDH or no WDH it never mattered. My TT had the axles more towards the center, although not as much as yours. I'm also wondering if maybe some frame flex was part of the problem. A combination of both maybe.
Anyway I went thru 4 WDH hitches, starting with an EQ 4pt sway that I ran for 2.5 years. Then to a used Hensley Arrow. Great sway control hitch but did nothing for the bounce. Upgraded to a 12 Ram 2500 CTD and while the truck towed the TT better the bounce was still there. Last resort was getting the Andersen WD hitch. Best ride yet. Took most of the bounce out, was super quiet and clean.
I'm not going to say that you'll never get that smooth tow, but if you're trying to fine tune things and you're not seeing very much change then it may just be what it is.

[EvvTraveler]

Originally Posted by goduc

I'm not going to say that you'll never get that smooth tow, but if you're trying to fine tune things and you're not seeing very much change then it may just be what it is.

This is what I fear, actually. We are going to be going full-time in a few months and travelling all over the US for well over a year (or more). Just trying to get it as good as I can. Luckily, we won't be doing any long hauls since we'll be exploring as we go. So two to three hour drives max and then spending a few days at the new location.

Honestly, right now, I think the one thing I can fix is getting rid of the 2.5" to 2" reducer. There is a lot of play and I hope that a 2.5" shank may help.

It also still bothers me that when I had lowered the L brackets one notch that things got a lot better. When I moved to a lower shank I moved the L brackets back to the middle position. I don't want to get rid of my sway control by not having enough friction (if that's how it works) though. Those that mentioned too beefy of sway bars "bouncing" things back has got me thinking too. Maybe why the ride got better when the brackets were lowered. I dunno. So much to learn and experiment with and I know no one personally who owns a TT and could help get me straightened out. So I'm on my own but thankful for all of you taking the time to give me ideas and tips. It's much appreciated!

[dmdomokos]

BTW - I have the 1000lb bars, not 1200lb. Just realized the difference. My trailer is 7500 loaded. You may be on to something there.

[goduc]

When I was using WDH's with my TT's I always had slop. Once things got tightened up with the WD nothing flexed. I too was concerned that that my be part of the problem. I bought one of those receiver clamps that tightens the shank in the receiver. Never made any difference.

[EvvTraveler]

Originally Posted by dmdomokos

BTW - I have the 1000lb bars, not 1200lb. Just realized the difference. My trailer is 7500 loaded. You may be on to something there.

That's our TT max weight as well. 6100 dry with a 1400 lb capacity. We've been spending so much money getting ready for our trip that I hate to keep buying crap just to get the towing dialed in (and not truly knowing if I'm already at the point of being as good as it gets). The 2.5" shank isn't too bad price wise though so I'll try it so I can get a little lower in the front and maybe that will help bring a little more weight forward.