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Old 05-13-2014, 09:36 AM   #1
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possibly a dumb question

So, I will be towing for the first time with my nissan titan. I have a 6" suspensino lift and 37" tires.

The trailer we have is the rockwood roo 233. I hooked it up to get used to the way it pulls and I have a huge sag.

I don't think I had the weight distribution bars adjusted correctly because I was basing it off of our old stock height dodge ran 1500.

I also don't have a decent drop hitch. I think mine drops maybe 4"?

I know the correct answer is to measure the trailer but I can't seem to find any level ground where I'm at. I did measure the trucks hitch and it's at 24.25" to the top of the receiver.

Can anyone give me any insight on this? I looked online for the hitch height of the trailer and someone said it's 25.5" to the top of the coupler...which I don't think is right since that would mean a 2" drop on a much higher than stock truck.
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Old 05-13-2014, 09:42 AM   #2
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Hi and welcome,
Raising your hitch height will help distribute the trailer weight further back on its wheels instead of onto your bumper.
This in turn will make your truck more level with the trailer.
After this is done then you can adjust you bars properly.

Find a level location instead of the trailer being in the driveway which looks higher than the street level.
Good luck
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Old 05-13-2014, 09:46 AM   #3
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Hello, yeah it's much higher than the street. I just figured the drop that is already on the hitch would suffice.

You suggest raising the hitch height? Wouldn't that cause more sag or no? The truck sits relatively level without the trailer on it. I've been reading on the titan site that people are using a longer drop, but I guess I have to investigate a little more than I had wanted to.
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:06 AM   #4
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Here's my thoughts.

First, level isn't as important as being on the same plane. Like Iggy said, pull it on out into the street so that everybody is the same height.

Trailers are designed to be pulled level with the road surface. If you can't find a level spot, use an angle finder to measure the street or parking lot you're on.

At this point disconnect the truck and trailer and move them about five feet apart.

Then use the tongue jack to set the trailer to match the angle of the street. A frame rail is good for that. Then measure at the coupler. Doesn't matter where so long as you're consistent and match that point at the ball later.

With your truck five feet ahead it should me on the same plane still. Set the hitch height to match what you measured at the trailer. This sets "Level" between the truck and trailer.

Recouple the truck and trailer and then adjust the tension on your spring bars by hooking into different links to raise the combo back to level. This act distributes the tongue weight between the front and rear axles.

At this point you should be level and ready to go. Don't be surprised if after a lap or two around the neighborhood you need to adjust the bars one more time once it settles in. After this you simply hook the bars in whatever link works best.

This is how I set mine up and loved the way it pulled. Others have different ways that work well also.

And the dumb question is the one you don't ask.
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:11 AM   #5
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thanks guys. I appreciate all of the help.

I'm assuming a relatively large amount of sag is to be expected with a lifted truck? Or will the adjustments ease this a bit?
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:16 AM   #6
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With the right drop, and right WDH settings, even that truck will ride level. See it all the time around where we're from with the lifted trucks.
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:19 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by kenfowler View Post
thanks guys. I appreciate all of the help.

I'm assuming a relatively large amount of sag is to be expected with a lifted truck? Or will the adjustments ease this a bit?

Like BigJohn D Said.
By not having the trailer and truck level will put more of the trailer weight on the trailers front axle and two wheel which causes more heat and premature tire blowouts.
If you balance the trailer on its two axles the trailer down weight will be balances on the two axles and four trailer tires with a smaller amount of weight on your trucks bumper.

With your trucks height and tires It will make it a little easier to tow at highway speed.

Good luck
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:23 AM   #8
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Nice, I really need to figure out the drop I need. I think adjusting the bars will be the easiest.
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:26 AM   #9
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Like BigJohn D Said.
By not having the trailer and truck level will put more of the trailer weight on the trailers front axle and two wheel which causes more heat and premature tire blowouts.
If you balance the trailer on its two axles the trailer down weight will be balances on the two axles and four trailer tires with a smaller amount of weight on your trucks bumper.

With your trucks height and tires It will make it a little easier to tow at highway speed.

Good luck
I hope the truck does well, it's got a supercharger and is pushing almost 500hp to the wheels and almost as much torque. During our practice run we drove it up up a 5% grade and we maintained 60mph at 3k rpm. This was with the sagging which I'm sure didn't help out.
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:31 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by kenfowler View Post
thanks guys. I appreciate all of the help.

I'm assuming a relatively large amount of sag is to be expected with a lifted truck? Or will the adjustments ease this a bit?
Without weight distribution, yes. While offroad trucks have a higher ride height, the spring rate is softer to allow for better articulation over rough terrain. The result is when you load it with raw weight the suspension wallows out.

This is where weight distribution comes to play. It forces the rear end back up shifting weight to the front axle and leveling everyone out.

So adjusted correctly yes you will be able to bring it to level. You might need to get stronger bars depending on what you have now.

When WDH was first showing up one thing they did at shows was put a set of bars on so tight that it would lift the rear axle off the ground. They would take the rear tires off and use 4WD to move it back and forth. I'll see if I can find a video.
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:50 AM   #11
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I believe the first picture of the wdh was with a 66 Olds Tornado and they took the rear wheels off.
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Old 05-13-2014, 11:23 AM   #12
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There it is! Thanks OC!
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Old 05-13-2014, 12:16 PM   #13
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wow that's pretty crazy.

I'm anxious to get this sorted out. I wish someone had my same setup so they could make life easier!
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Old 05-13-2014, 12:25 PM   #14
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Hitch Drop/Rise Calculation | Towing Hitches and Ball Mounts

when this site references: "Please account for some adjustment if air bags are not being used to prevent the truck from sinking a little when loaded."


Do they mean that you should have a bigger or smaller drop if not using air bags?
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Old 05-13-2014, 12:35 PM   #15
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I leave the hitch jack down so the nose is just a bit high then hook the weight distribution bars up. Once they are hooked up raise the Jack, it makes it easier to get the trailer level with the truck and easier to hook weight distribution up. When you draw on the weight distribution chains they should be just snug while jack is on ground and tight once its up.
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Old 05-18-2014, 02:03 PM   #16
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does this look any better? After the new drop hitch and WD bar adjustments, the back only sags 1".

Is that normal and acceptable?
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Old 05-18-2014, 02:05 PM   #17
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obviously the road isn't perfectly flat....but the tongue was level according to the level
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Old 05-18-2014, 02:19 PM   #18
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Much better.
A drop of an inch is nothing to worry about.
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Old 05-18-2014, 02:48 PM   #19
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Agreed, an inch shows it is loaded some and should pull much better now.
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Old 05-18-2014, 02:48 PM   #20
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I believe the first picture of the wdh was with a 66 Olds Tornado and they took the rear wheels off.
Growing up my dad had the same car, a '66 Toronado. A very heavy duty car. We may think that the picture looks a little foolish to have the rear wheels removed from the Tornado to show the possible lift of the wdh, but there was also another reason to show the power of not just the power of the wdh, but of the Toronado itself. It was a front wheel drive and had a lot of power. It could really pull that camper down the road as it is set up in the picture.

Oldsmobile Toronado - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Engine 425 cu in (7.0 L) 385 hp (287 kW) Rocket V8[1]
455 cu in (7.5 L) Rocket V8 Transmission 3-speed TH-425 automatic
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